Bill C

I need any available info about how to remove the Alternator from MY 2007 RX-350

As a second question, is it a Densio unit?

Third are the brushes replacable?

Finally is the regulator also a replaceable unit.

I plan to tear into this unit tomorrow, so any info would be very helpful!.

kiwi

most if not all alternators can be rebuilt,

the problem is time. most people dont have the time to wait for the alternator to get rebuilt, it could take several days. which is why most people just drop in a new unit. (or rebuilt unit)

keep in mind, depending where you buy your new alternator, it may not work right out of the box, so if you still have the same problem, check the alternator, dont rule it out.

tomit

Bill, what makes you think the alternator is bad?

Tom

Bill C

I had the car fail to start after driving 50 miles yesterday morning. AAA provided a jump start and then the battery measured 11.46V, and battery symbol was showing on the display. The car was running on what was left of the battery. Had it towed to Tracy Toyota and they confirmed my findings. I had it towed home after they couldn't figure out what to do!
Today I will pull the alternator and rebuild it.

Rainbird

That sure doesn't give any confidence in Toyota of Tracy. Has the battery been tested under load?

Bill C

I will have the battery tested after the alternator is replaced. Tracy Toyota wanted to replace the alternator, the negative battery connection, and the battery. Since they waited a hour for a call back from Lexus, I pulled the car, and used my "plus" service of AAA and had the car brought home 65 miles on a flatbed.

Bill C

I have looked the alternator over and I don't understand how to remove it? I am not a newby, I have been wrenching for years, and have never seen an alternator so buried! I saw something on the internet about removing the right front wheel. I did this and now I can see the serpentine belt and the crankshaft pulley, Next I will see if the belt tensioner can be released?
Please folks, I need some HELP!!

Skorp1on

you might want to check out this video
it's for a camry but same 2GR-FE engine as yours.
also you might want to look at Rockauto to see a picture of what the alternator looks like. from the look of it, there is two bolts holding it on. of course you will have to release the tensioner to remove the serpentine belt first. then depending on where the alternator is located, you might have to remove/unbolt the tensioner, a/c compressor idler, motor mounts, etc. to get to it. i have not worked on 2GR-FE before that would be my best guess and approach. Honda K series engines alternator are also difficult to get to, so not just toyotas. G/L

Skorp1on

this thread might also be helpful.
from the look of it, you might have to drop the bumper, remove the radiator, remove cooling hoses, bracket,coolant housing, etc.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4...6-v6-help.html

Bill C

Thanks so much Skorpion, I spent about 5 minutes looking at the area exposed by the small removable panel, and then looked again at the top, and made the decision to have my friendly mechanic do this job! I also read that since the air conditioning compressor is directly below and lines wrap around the alternator area, you may have to discharge/recharge the system.
When I checked with my mechanic friend, he looked up the "flat rate" and they indicate 2.4hrs, so that's about $240 + the replacement alternator and belt. So it looks like about $500 for the job, depending on the alternator price.Thanks again for your efforts!!!

kiwi

i would be surprised if you had to discharge the AC and remove the radiator, should come out easier than that.

also, i would anticipate replacing the battery too, often times when the alternator goes, its takes the battery with it.

Skorp1on

You're welcome. I joined just to try to give something back from the information I have received and learned over the years from being on forums like these. Just earlier in this year, through youtube, this and other forums on the internet, i tackled the gut-wrenching task of replacing the timing belt, valve cover gaskets, and spark plugs on a 3MZ-FE RX330. had to open valve covers to verify timing marks because the timing belt broke due to leaky waterpump. it was kinda scary starting it up the first time after everything was back in for risk of having bent valves.

I don't think you would have to discharge/recharge the A/C system per se. to make as much room as possible, it might be necessary to unbolt the compressor from the engine block.

about a month ago, i had to replace the starter on the Honda CRV with K series engine. it involved removing serpentine belt, P/S pump, auto tensioner, intake manifold, alternator radiator support, etc. just to get to it. so i figure the alternator on the 2GR-FE should be somewhat similar. If you have the 4-cyl 2AZ-FE, then replacing the alternator on that is cake because i've replaced that before.

Bill C

Well Skorpian, I started working on engines in 1950, and was involved building a stock car when I was 15, and it was a 1940 Buick Century. In 1957 it was stock cars again with a 1950 Ford coupe. Then drag racing with Corvetts, and then sports cars, MG's, & Jags & a Morgan. I loved Chrysler's, and then went from English cars, to Italian cars, and finally German cars, I still have a 1979 Mercedes Benz 450SL in the garage( you know the Beverly Hills Go Cart)
Your name reminds me of a 1976 Lancia Skorpian, which my son & I modified. We added a big Rayja turbo to the 1.8 L DOHC engine and at 8000rpm with 15lbs boost it was well over 200hp. We added Knock sensing and water injection to keep everything together. Bye for now, Bill

spawn818

Well, since this thread doesn't actually contain any useful information, I made an account to update it because I just did this for someone (on Easter Sunday night). Its kind of a pain. 2007 RX350


Drain the radiator, remove radiator fans, remove thermostat housing (by the belts), remove idler pulley, two big bolts for the alternator and also there's a small bracket on the rear of the alternator attached to the block (this had me stumped for an hour as the alt wouldn't come up, until I saw a threaded hole on the new alt and figured it out, visibility wasn't great, so I didn't see it easy).

To hold the belt tensioner pulley I use a "Mountain" ratcheting flexhead wrenches ( ) and they are a life saver.

It will take some effort and moving the A/C hose and wiring, but you CAN pull the alt out with the radiator in place without damaging the fins (well, maybe a couple fins SLIGHTLY).

Reinstall the thermostat housing then install the idler pulley. Radiator filler neck with cap - the small bleed hose tube will most likely break on you because its now brittle goo instead of plastic, so you should go ahead and replace the filler neck too, its about 30 bucks.

It was an annoying job and I cursed the engineers behind this, but a lot of front wheel drive cars are sucky like this in general.

Anyway, hopefully someone stumbles on this because I did some searching prior and couldn't find much.

Cal07RX350

hi spawn818,

I removed big bolt on the top, and then the bolt on the left bottom. Is there more bolt on the right bottom? How do you get it out? I did not remove anything for those two bolts and I prefer not to remove if I can. Please let me know.