Front door and dash speakers wiring
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Front door and dash speakers wiring
Hello!
I need to know if the front door speakers are wired together with the dash speakers and the tweeters in 2004 rx330. Is there a crossover somewhere? What is the best way to separate the signals? That is, I want to connect the door speakers to a midramge frequency and the dash speakers to an amp with HPF.
Thank you!
I need to know if the front door speakers are wired together with the dash speakers and the tweeters in 2004 rx330. Is there a crossover somewhere? What is the best way to separate the signals? That is, I want to connect the door speakers to a midramge frequency and the dash speakers to an amp with HPF.
Thank you!
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
On further tests, I could find that the tweeters are independent, but the dash speakers near the windshield are connected to the front door speakers.
My remaining question is: is there a crossover between door and dash speakers? If not, will the dash speakers handle 80 to 3500 htz?
My remaining question is: is there a crossover between door and dash speakers? If not, will the dash speakers handle 80 to 3500 htz?
#3
You really mean 80? There's no way in the world 80 HZ will come through your tweeters. I doubt you would hear that in your door speakers. And why would you amp the tweeters?
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks.
#5
Your deck will probably have a digital crossover for all outputs (it should anyway). All you will be doing is cutting around 120 and below out of your fronts and rears. Your sub will be passing about 80. I don't know what you are saying about 250 - 3,500. Your fronts (including the tweets) and rears will be passing basically 120 - 20,000 Hz, and the sub will be passing 80 - 20 Hz, to put it in simple and relative terms. All the crossover function should come from the deck but any amp you buy should have a high and low pass as well, if you choose to use those.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Your deck will probably have a digital crossover for all outputs (it should anyway). All you will be doing is cutting around 120 and below out of your fronts and rears. Your sub will be passing about 80. I don't know what you are saying about 250 - 3,500. Your fronts (including the tweets) and rears will be passing basically 120 - 20,000 Hz, and the sub will be passing 80 - 20 Hz, to put it in simple and relative terms. All the crossover function should come from the deck but any amp you buy should have a high and low pass as well, if you choose to use those.
But the deck does not have a crossover. It's a simple pioneer deh headunit. So I do the cutting with the amps. I could buy an active crossover, but the only option available is a Performance Teknique one, which is not a good brand(?). I see many suggestions to cut at 120, but what about the sounds between 80-120 Hz? When I say 250-3500 Hz, I mean that firstly I wanted to separate door speakers from dash speakers. I thought the dash speakers where not wired together with the fromt door speakers. That way I would feed them from 250 to 3500 and give the tweeters 3500 and up. 80 to 250 would be for the door speakers, fromt and rear. But the door speakers and the dash speakers are wired together, so I have to find a good balance of frequencies for those different speakers. i guess I'll go with 120 to 4000 Hz. 4000 and up for the tweeters.
#7
I would not worry about the separation of the doors, dash and a pillars. That's a personal thing. The door speakers don't have tweeters anyway, and I doubt there is a factory crossover. So if you are going with factory amp then I would just go with the wiring in there. But you have a whole world of PITA if you change the HU and leave the factory amp... harnesses that cost a lot, etc.
You don't actually brick-wall frequencies above 80 Hz on your sub, they just roll off to lower volumes. You want a gap between your cutoff frequencies because they will actually be playing at both points - the sub and the doors.
You don't actually brick-wall frequencies above 80 Hz on your sub, they just roll off to lower volumes. You want a gap between your cutoff frequencies because they will actually be playing at both points - the sub and the doors.
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#9
Driver
Thread Starter
Ok! I thnik I screwed everything! I wired the front door speakers and the rear door speakers to the same output from the aftermarket amp. Now I have no sound from the front door speakers. Only from the dash and rear door ones. What might be wrong.
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
problem solved
It is all solved now. In case you are interested, the front door have no tweeters, like you said. The rear doors are coaxial two ways. The dash speakers a re wired with the tweeters on the A-pillars, and there might be a crossover between them. What mislead me at first was to think that front speaker inthe diagram referred to the door speakers. No, they refer to the dash speakers.
Thank you.
Thank you.
I would not worry about the separation of the doors, dash and a pillars. That's a personal thing. The door speakers don't have tweeters anyway, and I doubt there is a factory crossover. So if you are going with factory amp then I would just go with the wiring in there. But you have a whole world of PITA if you change the HU and leave the factory amp... harnesses that cost a lot, etc.
You don't actually brick-wall frequencies above 80 Hz on your sub, they just roll off to lower volumes. You want a gap between your cutoff frequencies because they will actually be playing at both points - the sub and the doors.
You don't actually brick-wall frequencies above 80 Hz on your sub, they just roll off to lower volumes. You want a gap between your cutoff frequencies because they will actually be playing at both points - the sub and the doors.
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