Upper Air Intake Removal
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Upper Air Intake Removal
I am trying to remove the upper air intake manifold (air surge tank per the factory manual) and need some advice.
I am at the point where the factory repair manual says to remove the nuts for the power steering pressure hose and push the hose out of the way. The next step is to remove the three hangers that go from the engine to the manifold/throttle body.
Access to the nuts holding the hose on and the hangers is pretty tight.
Has anyone done this?
Is it easier to remove the throttle body (the manual has it come off with the manifold)?
Do the hangers have to be removed or will the manifold come out if it is just unbolted from the top?
The ultimate goal is to replace a leaking rear valve cover gasket.
Thanks, Joe
I am at the point where the factory repair manual says to remove the nuts for the power steering pressure hose and push the hose out of the way. The next step is to remove the three hangers that go from the engine to the manifold/throttle body.
Access to the nuts holding the hose on and the hangers is pretty tight.
Has anyone done this?
Is it easier to remove the throttle body (the manual has it come off with the manifold)?
Do the hangers have to be removed or will the manifold come out if it is just unbolted from the top?
The ultimate goal is to replace a leaking rear valve cover gasket.
Thanks, Joe
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
This answered most of my questions:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...with-pics.html
Does any one know if the rear valve cover will come off with the stays in place.
Aloha, Joe
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...with-pics.html
Does any one know if the rear valve cover will come off with the stays in place.
Aloha, Joe
#3
You need to remove the entire, reapeat ENTIRE throttle body and upper intake AS WELL AS THE LOWER INTAKE to get the rear valve cover off.
Did this job in January. I never touched a power steering hose or removed the wiper cowling.
Simply removed the entire assembly bolt by bolt. the three brackets in the rear can be access carefully and loosened using a STUBBY 12MM Ratcheting wrench.
Hope this helps..
Did this job in January. I never touched a power steering hose or removed the wiper cowling.
Simply removed the entire assembly bolt by bolt. the three brackets in the rear can be access carefully and loosened using a STUBBY 12MM Ratcheting wrench.
Hope this helps..
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks HTownBlue. That helps.
I am curious why the lower intake manifold needs to come out. Was this to give you enough clearance to remove the valve cover with the cowl installed?
It amazes me that you were able to do this with the cowl in place. I had the cowl off (before I decided to back out of the job to get more knowledge, tools and gaskets). Even with the cowl off access to the hanger bolts looked pretty tight. Time to buy some stubby ratcheting wrenches.
Aloha, Joe
I am curious why the lower intake manifold needs to come out. Was this to give you enough clearance to remove the valve cover with the cowl installed?
It amazes me that you were able to do this with the cowl in place. I had the cowl off (before I decided to back out of the job to get more knowledge, tools and gaskets). Even with the cowl off access to the hanger bolts looked pretty tight. Time to buy some stubby ratcheting wrenches.
Aloha, Joe
#5
Yes I removed the lower to enable the valve cover to come out without the cowl. I had to slide my hands behind the throttle body first to loosen the bracket....once that was out....did the second bracket. Once loosened, I moved it slightly. then went for the third in the rear IIRC.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
HTownBlue
Thanks for your advice on this.
I tackled the job this weekend and (fingers crossed) I think I fixed the leak without creating any new ones. Time will tell. I found a couple of loose bolts on the rear of the valve cover, but I replaced the gasket since I was there and when I tightened loose bolts on the front it did not fix the leak.
I removed the cowl, so no need to remove the lower intake manifold. Still tough getting at those hanger bolts at the top of the upper intake manifold (flex head ratcheting wrenches were my friend). I also loosened the bottom hanger bolts to allow me to move the hangers to get better access to three of the rear valve cover bolts.
Here's what it looked like under the valve cover. Some one asked if I took a picture when I did the front which i forgot to do. 72,000 miles and oil changes every 5,000 miles (conventional) or 6,000 miles (synthetic).
Aloha, Joe
Thanks for your advice on this.
I tackled the job this weekend and (fingers crossed) I think I fixed the leak without creating any new ones. Time will tell. I found a couple of loose bolts on the rear of the valve cover, but I replaced the gasket since I was there and when I tightened loose bolts on the front it did not fix the leak.
I removed the cowl, so no need to remove the lower intake manifold. Still tough getting at those hanger bolts at the top of the upper intake manifold (flex head ratcheting wrenches were my friend). I also loosened the bottom hanger bolts to allow me to move the hangers to get better access to three of the rear valve cover bolts.
Here's what it looked like under the valve cover. Some one asked if I took a picture when I did the front which i forgot to do. 72,000 miles and oil changes every 5,000 miles (conventional) or 6,000 miles (synthetic).
Aloha, Joe
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