lexus got into accident :(
06-02-13, 11:10 AM
#16
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RX330inFL said some very important things. Progressive is so bad (sorry to pile on, glad ur ok) that allstate may treat you better, however make sure you double check on the better body shops around, and ask your friends who you trust, especially those with better vehicles, all of us have had accidents. You can bet Progressive will subrogate, or collect all the money they pay for you from Allstate since their insured is 100% at fault. My friend owns a body shop across the street from my business, I see him daily and he tells me the constant poor quality of Progressive adjuster and how little they are willing to pay to fix THEIR insureds vehicle. also they are just trying a scare tactic telling you that work in a body shop not aligned with them is not waranteed. any good shop would take care of problems later. what my friend would have me do is go to the expensive shop with the damage and have them write up an estimate and then have that in hand when you see the adjuster. I know that is hard to do if you are not sure the vehicle is ok to be driven. keep us posted, we do care. also when you select the shop make sure you tell them you want the best paint match possible, fixing the car is a science, painting it is an art. also make sure they use the product that makes the paint bond to the plastic bumper, so that does not peel off later.
Last edited by katzjamr; 06-02-13 at 11:20 AM.
06-02-13, 12:14 PM
#17
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thanks guys
the issue is the car really shouldnt be driven...it makes a knocking noise, the muffler is busted, the tailpipe is twisted to the left, and the trunk barely stays on to the latch
i just dont think its in the best shape to drive around for estimate, + im in a neck brace so me getting around isnt that easy either
im thinking of taking it to my local lexus dealer who has a body shop if they are willing to do the work.
the issue is the car really shouldnt be driven...it makes a knocking noise, the muffler is busted, the tailpipe is twisted to the left, and the trunk barely stays on to the latch
i just dont think its in the best shape to drive around for estimate, + im in a neck brace so me getting around isnt that easy either
im thinking of taking it to my local lexus dealer who has a body shop if they are willing to do the work.
06-02-13, 12:43 PM
#18
Hopefully, this will not cause any problems with your mid-month plans.
Am beginning to wonder if we all should not be wearing HANS devices in our daily travels.
06-02-13, 03:41 PM
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First of all, I'm glad you're okay! :-)
You indicated that your Lexus dealership has a body shop. I would contact them for sure.
Also, you did not indicate the year or mileage on the vehicle.
Wishing you luck & keep us posted!
Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android
You indicated that your Lexus dealership has a body shop. I would contact them for sure.
Also, you did not indicate the year or mileage on the vehicle.
Wishing you luck & keep us posted!
Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android
06-02-13, 04:40 PM
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i tried to attach images here but it said upload failed
06-02-13, 07:53 PM
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Sorry about this unfortunate loss for you. To chime in here I hijacked my wife's computer (She is the RX owner and loves this forum!). I am a Collision Repair Technician and have been since 1987. I am an ASE and I-Car Master tech. I am also an ex I-Car instructor. Most of my career I worked in the same luxury and exotic auto body shop. Anything from $50k to hundreds of thousands of dollar value automobiles.
First off, I can only speak about Colorado Laws and insurance companies. Also, I-Car certifications are WAY better and more important than ASE. To be allowed to be a "preferred shop" by an insurance company requires ASE and I-Car certifications. In fact, a certain amount of certifications! It's also probable that "Dealer Techs" have more repair education between ASE, I-Car and factory training standards required from the auto manufacturer. Ask to see the techs certification from the shop you choose. This means being involved and meeting your estimator and tech! Go in and watch the progression of the repairs. Yes this annoys the tech but who cares. From my point of view I enjoyed showing the customer the progression because I had pride in my workmanship!
My first question to anyone is "who is your insurance company"? Allstate and Progressive are the WORST companies for auto claims! I say this from obvious experience. Yes there are those that have had good experiences with both companies and would argue this with me but I have dealt with them for 20 plus years everyday! I have more experience then most everyone combined on this forum with those companies!
It is "False" to say that the shop is in bed with the insurance company if they are a "preferred" shop. Politics are everyday in this relationship as the insurance company steers a lot of work and money to these shops. It streamlines the process. They also direct how estimates are written and attempt to put pressure on the shop to cut costs but when the shop is reputable this does not affect the quality of repair. This is a big reason to visit often and talk to the estimator and tech about how the repairs are potentially being "directed". The shop is on your side!!! Not the insurance company!!! Communication is important. If you had State Farm, Travelers, Farmers, etc. I would recommend you use your own insurance and have them bill the insured company. Since you don't, I would say that is like from the frying pan to the fire. I don't have any good advice for you on that front.
You are the claimant not the insured. You don't have to put up with any cheap or aftermarket repairs. Do not discount used parts (Body parts that is, not mechanical or electrical) If the latter, YOU inspect those used parts and insist on year and mileage of the donor car the parts came from. Remember used parts are "Factory Parts". If tires are damaged you will be prorated on life expectancy. They will make you whole, but not better than "Pre-Accident" condition. Sounds like frame damage is probable. Again if the technician is good, this is not a big deal! Just make sure "body wax" is sprayed inside the repaired frame rails. This coats everything that undercoat can't reach for corrosion protection (broken and flaking e-coat and paint inside the rail at the crumple zones and newly welded areas). Again, if frame damage and floor damage exists you make sure that the undercarriage is repaired exactly like the vehicle was originally built. Meaning undercoats, seam sealers and paint. These product applications should closely resemble what the factory used as best as "humanly possible". Also inspect the lift gate jambs and how they were refinished. Many body shops are known to perform a poor job of this refinishing. Again, reputable shops take pride and perform the work the same inside and out! Check bolts and nuts for chewed and missing paint. This is unsightly and shows shoddy workmanship.
Fit and finish is very important. Check it all very closely. Gaps are a clear indication of workmanship. In a rear end situation look over door to quarter gaps especially at the dogleg. Everything should operate smooth as it is a Lexus. Paint match is also important. Look from many angles not just one. In the shade as well as sun.
If anything is wrong by your standards voice your concerns! Don't yell or be a jerk, again, the reputable shop will work with you to make you whole. If they don't, then take it up with the paying insurance company. If that doesn't satisfy you then take it up with your own insurance company. I forgot to mention, when you use a preferred insurance shop, the work is usually lifetime guarantee. Allstate owns body shops now by the way. Do not use theirs!!!
Make sure they perform a 4 wheel alignment. Also, insist that the vehicle be inspected by Lexus. Now this is more important in a frontal collision as much more mechanical is involved. Also, I would hedge a bet that most mechanical techs don't recognize repaired frame damage. But they are a second set of eyes and can find things "out of the ordinary". I would also let the shop (estimator and repair tech) know in the beginning that you intend to have Lexus check the vehicle over. This puts them in the mindset that they will have a spotlight on their repair practices.
And last, what does this all mean for vehicle worth? Diminished value! Since you are not at fault you are at a loss. When you (if you) sell or trade this vehicle you will find that your vehicle will be discounted if the purchasing party is privy to this accident. I would hope Carfax and other reporting agencies would know this loss. I am sure you would be upset to purchase this vehicle used and later find that it's been damaged! You negotiate the difference that you would potentially lose in a vehicle sale at the current market value.
I parsed most of this information. In person I could explain it all in great detail in about 10 minutes. Typing takes so much longer! LOL... I hope this voice of experience will help you and anyone else out in the future!
First off, I can only speak about Colorado Laws and insurance companies. Also, I-Car certifications are WAY better and more important than ASE. To be allowed to be a "preferred shop" by an insurance company requires ASE and I-Car certifications. In fact, a certain amount of certifications! It's also probable that "Dealer Techs" have more repair education between ASE, I-Car and factory training standards required from the auto manufacturer. Ask to see the techs certification from the shop you choose. This means being involved and meeting your estimator and tech! Go in and watch the progression of the repairs. Yes this annoys the tech but who cares. From my point of view I enjoyed showing the customer the progression because I had pride in my workmanship!
My first question to anyone is "who is your insurance company"? Allstate and Progressive are the WORST companies for auto claims! I say this from obvious experience. Yes there are those that have had good experiences with both companies and would argue this with me but I have dealt with them for 20 plus years everyday! I have more experience then most everyone combined on this forum with those companies!
It is "False" to say that the shop is in bed with the insurance company if they are a "preferred" shop. Politics are everyday in this relationship as the insurance company steers a lot of work and money to these shops. It streamlines the process. They also direct how estimates are written and attempt to put pressure on the shop to cut costs but when the shop is reputable this does not affect the quality of repair. This is a big reason to visit often and talk to the estimator and tech about how the repairs are potentially being "directed". The shop is on your side!!! Not the insurance company!!! Communication is important. If you had State Farm, Travelers, Farmers, etc. I would recommend you use your own insurance and have them bill the insured company. Since you don't, I would say that is like from the frying pan to the fire. I don't have any good advice for you on that front.
You are the claimant not the insured. You don't have to put up with any cheap or aftermarket repairs. Do not discount used parts (Body parts that is, not mechanical or electrical) If the latter, YOU inspect those used parts and insist on year and mileage of the donor car the parts came from. Remember used parts are "Factory Parts". If tires are damaged you will be prorated on life expectancy. They will make you whole, but not better than "Pre-Accident" condition. Sounds like frame damage is probable. Again if the technician is good, this is not a big deal! Just make sure "body wax" is sprayed inside the repaired frame rails. This coats everything that undercoat can't reach for corrosion protection (broken and flaking e-coat and paint inside the rail at the crumple zones and newly welded areas). Again, if frame damage and floor damage exists you make sure that the undercarriage is repaired exactly like the vehicle was originally built. Meaning undercoats, seam sealers and paint. These product applications should closely resemble what the factory used as best as "humanly possible". Also inspect the lift gate jambs and how they were refinished. Many body shops are known to perform a poor job of this refinishing. Again, reputable shops take pride and perform the work the same inside and out! Check bolts and nuts for chewed and missing paint. This is unsightly and shows shoddy workmanship.
Fit and finish is very important. Check it all very closely. Gaps are a clear indication of workmanship. In a rear end situation look over door to quarter gaps especially at the dogleg. Everything should operate smooth as it is a Lexus. Paint match is also important. Look from many angles not just one. In the shade as well as sun.
If anything is wrong by your standards voice your concerns! Don't yell or be a jerk, again, the reputable shop will work with you to make you whole. If they don't, then take it up with the paying insurance company. If that doesn't satisfy you then take it up with your own insurance company. I forgot to mention, when you use a preferred insurance shop, the work is usually lifetime guarantee. Allstate owns body shops now by the way. Do not use theirs!!!
Make sure they perform a 4 wheel alignment. Also, insist that the vehicle be inspected by Lexus. Now this is more important in a frontal collision as much more mechanical is involved. Also, I would hedge a bet that most mechanical techs don't recognize repaired frame damage. But they are a second set of eyes and can find things "out of the ordinary". I would also let the shop (estimator and repair tech) know in the beginning that you intend to have Lexus check the vehicle over. This puts them in the mindset that they will have a spotlight on their repair practices.
And last, what does this all mean for vehicle worth? Diminished value! Since you are not at fault you are at a loss. When you (if you) sell or trade this vehicle you will find that your vehicle will be discounted if the purchasing party is privy to this accident. I would hope Carfax and other reporting agencies would know this loss. I am sure you would be upset to purchase this vehicle used and later find that it's been damaged! You negotiate the difference that you would potentially lose in a vehicle sale at the current market value.
I parsed most of this information. In person I could explain it all in great detail in about 10 minutes. Typing takes so much longer! LOL... I hope this voice of experience will help you and anyone else out in the future!
06-03-13, 05:13 AM
#23
I can relate my story as it is similar to yours. I got rearended in Florida a few years ago, by a driver who was arguing with his son on his cellphone. The light turned red and I stopped... he didn't.
I suspect I had similar damage to yours. Hatch was smashed in and once opened wouldn't close. Bumper was mangled and there was some rear fender damage to both sides as well. His truck was totaled. The driver was ticketed at the scene and he had Progressive insurance.
Progressive wanted me to take it for three estimates. I explained the car was not safe to drive. They said they would send an estimator but it would be about ten days. I told them I didn't have 10 days to wait. I called my agent (State Farm) and he suggested I just take the car wherever I wanted it to be repaired and they would subrogate the claim. There was no increase in my insurance rates for this as State Farm didn't have to payout anything. State Farm also subrogated the $100 collision deductible cost as well as a long term rental vehicle and my medical expenses.
Progressive was doing everything they could to attempt to reduce their liability and expense, whereas State Farm wanted my vehicle and myself made right. My insurer looked after me and gave me good advice since I was his customer. Damage exceeded $8k and took the better part of a month to repair. State Farm was adamant that no third party repair parts be used.
This repair shop I used doesn't submit damage claims to CARFAX. They guarantee that they make the car like it never happened and offer a lifetime warranty on the repairs and therefor see no need to file extra paperwork that might reduce the future resale value of the vehicle. Neither State Farm nor Progressive submitted any info to CARFAX either.
Good luck.
I suspect I had similar damage to yours. Hatch was smashed in and once opened wouldn't close. Bumper was mangled and there was some rear fender damage to both sides as well. His truck was totaled. The driver was ticketed at the scene and he had Progressive insurance.
Progressive wanted me to take it for three estimates. I explained the car was not safe to drive. They said they would send an estimator but it would be about ten days. I told them I didn't have 10 days to wait. I called my agent (State Farm) and he suggested I just take the car wherever I wanted it to be repaired and they would subrogate the claim. There was no increase in my insurance rates for this as State Farm didn't have to payout anything. State Farm also subrogated the $100 collision deductible cost as well as a long term rental vehicle and my medical expenses.
Progressive was doing everything they could to attempt to reduce their liability and expense, whereas State Farm wanted my vehicle and myself made right. My insurer looked after me and gave me good advice since I was his customer. Damage exceeded $8k and took the better part of a month to repair. State Farm was adamant that no third party repair parts be used.
This repair shop I used doesn't submit damage claims to CARFAX. They guarantee that they make the car like it never happened and offer a lifetime warranty on the repairs and therefor see no need to file extra paperwork that might reduce the future resale value of the vehicle. Neither State Farm nor Progressive submitted any info to CARFAX either.
Good luck.
Last edited by jfelbab; 06-03-13 at 05:27 AM.
06-03-13, 06:10 AM
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This repair shop I used doesn't submit damage claims to CARFAX. They guarantee that they make the car like it never happened and offer a lifetime warranty on the repairs and therefor see no need to file extra paperwork that might reduce the future resale value of the vehicle. Neither State Farm nor Progressive submitted any info to CARFAX either.
Good luck.
06-03-13, 06:17 AM
#25
As far as I know the other party is going to pay for your damage, why not get an estimate from your body shops (by searching your own) and match up with other party insurance payment. If you go thru your own insurance means deductible first to be taking out and your insurance will reimburse you later.
To make life easier try to avoid going thru your own insurance, obviously you get to report to your own insurance initially.
To make life easier try to avoid going thru your own insurance, obviously you get to report to your own insurance initially.
06-03-13, 02:22 PM
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1) allstate has accepted liability
2) the adjustor is coming to see car, will call me tom AM to set up appt
3) allstate approved rental, but only gave me the "standard car"....I refused enterprise car and will only settle for a crossover/suv...more to come on this, they say you are supposed to get a "comparable car"
things im wondering about
4) loss of value compensation...how do I quantify this? should i ask the dealer to give me a document stating how much value this costs me in a potential sale or trade in?
5) should I ask both lexus and allstate not to report to carfax? I feel guilty doing that lol
6) is lexus body shop reliable or should I use a allstate network collision center
1) allstate has accepted liability
2) the adjustor is coming to see car, will call me tom AM to set up appt
3) allstate approved rental, but only gave me the "standard car"....I refused enterprise car and will only settle for a crossover/suv...more to come on this, they say you are supposed to get a "comparable car"
things im wondering about
4) loss of value compensation...how do I quantify this? should i ask the dealer to give me a document stating how much value this costs me in a potential sale or trade in?
5) should I ask both lexus and allstate not to report to carfax? I feel guilty doing that lol
6) is lexus body shop reliable or should I use a allstate network collision center
06-07-13, 10:46 AM
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update
lexus towed to lexus dealer body shop
i got a dodge journey rental
estimate at 6400, but adjustor admitted there might be more damage he cant see...estimated 11 business days worth of labor to fix it
cut me the check for 6400, paid for towing to body shop, and the paid rental is costing them 43 per day
i will try again to put pics up
lexus towed to lexus dealer body shop
i got a dodge journey rental
estimate at 6400, but adjustor admitted there might be more damage he cant see...estimated 11 business days worth of labor to fix it
cut me the check for 6400, paid for towing to body shop, and the paid rental is costing them 43 per day
i will try again to put pics up
07-10-13, 06:07 PM
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accident follow up, what to do?
Hi, Pic attached...it doesnt do it justice as the damage is all in the bottom....basically, new liftgate needed, frame damage, new muffler system, the insurance workup is like 5 pages of repairs costing 7k or so. it is being repaired
1) would you keep the car? or would you get rid of it considering the damage it had
2) how would one look for compensation on loss of value? is that just a lawsuit against other party in small claims court?
thanks!
1) would you keep the car? or would you get rid of it considering the damage it had
2) how would one look for compensation on loss of value? is that just a lawsuit against other party in small claims court?
thanks!
07-10-13, 06:09 PM
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07-10-13, 06:33 PM
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Call AllState. I realize that is their insurance company, but they seem to have treated you fair so far. Talk to them about your concern over diminished value of your vehicle due to the accident to see what they have to say.