RX330 Rear Spark Plug Change (***DIY with Pics***)
#1
RX330 Rear Spark Plug Change (***DIY with Pics***)
I want to first take the opportunity to thank those that have helped me in particular HTOWNBLUE – his advice was extremely helpful so major props to a great (contributing) forum member.
I volunteered to do this for a couple reasons. First, I was asked by several to do this and there were always questions on whether to pull the intake, fabricate a magical jointed-extension socket thingy that will reach around the back of the intake, or remove wiper cowl. I chose to remove the TB, intake connector assembly and upper intake (surge tank) – and this created a clear passage to the rear spark plugs. Second, I also did this because it is expensive at your local Lexus dealer ranging from $650-$950. Sometimes you can find a special that Lexus or Toyota is running for ~$300 but it is rare. Some people change at 90k miles others at 120k miles. I did mine at 107k miles.
Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 7. It is not for the faint of heart – there is a lot of **** to remove and a lot of coolant lines to remember where to put back. Total time is ~5hrs. This is probably one of the biggest maintenance-related jobs on these cars next to the timing belt replacement.
Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.***I will not be held responsible for any injury or engine failure due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project****.
Parts needed:
- Denso long life iridium spark plugs – Denso part # SK20R11
- PCV (I changed mine) – Lexus part 1220420040
- Upper intake manifold/surge tank gasket (orange) – Lexus part # 1717620020
- Plenum gasket – Lexus part # 1712720010
- Intake flange (gray) gasket – Lexus part # 1711620010
- TB gasket – Lexus part # 2227120040
****Due to sheer file size and numbers of pics, the DIY is located in the attachment below*****
Please let me know if there is a better way to upload. File is PDF (35mb).
LET’S DO THIS!!!!!…..
https://www.mediafire.com/?em918woy9r5nu5f
or
http://www.megafileupload.com/en/fil...up-v2-pdf.html
I volunteered to do this for a couple reasons. First, I was asked by several to do this and there were always questions on whether to pull the intake, fabricate a magical jointed-extension socket thingy that will reach around the back of the intake, or remove wiper cowl. I chose to remove the TB, intake connector assembly and upper intake (surge tank) – and this created a clear passage to the rear spark plugs. Second, I also did this because it is expensive at your local Lexus dealer ranging from $650-$950. Sometimes you can find a special that Lexus or Toyota is running for ~$300 but it is rare. Some people change at 90k miles others at 120k miles. I did mine at 107k miles.
Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 7. It is not for the faint of heart – there is a lot of **** to remove and a lot of coolant lines to remember where to put back. Total time is ~5hrs. This is probably one of the biggest maintenance-related jobs on these cars next to the timing belt replacement.
Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.***I will not be held responsible for any injury or engine failure due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this DIY project****.
Parts needed:
- Denso long life iridium spark plugs – Denso part # SK20R11
- PCV (I changed mine) – Lexus part 1220420040
- Upper intake manifold/surge tank gasket (orange) – Lexus part # 1717620020
- Plenum gasket – Lexus part # 1712720010
- Intake flange (gray) gasket – Lexus part # 1711620010
- TB gasket – Lexus part # 2227120040
****Due to sheer file size and numbers of pics, the DIY is located in the attachment below*****
Please let me know if there is a better way to upload. File is PDF (35mb).
LET’S DO THIS!!!!!…..
https://www.mediafire.com/?em918woy9r5nu5f
or
http://www.megafileupload.com/en/fil...up-v2-pdf.html
Last edited by alchemist; 11-25-13 at 09:06 AM.
The following 6 users liked this post by alchemist:
Broc (02-12-20),
ColemanMisty (06-01-24),
daddiojigg (02-04-18),
janesmith (12-31-17),
JBSGROUP (10-12-23),
and 1 others liked this post.
#3
Am downloading the pdf and we'll see how we can avail of this easily, but thanks for your input. I have personal interest on this, I just did my SC and the RX will eventually be due.
#4
Notes: Clean your throttle body while you have it out.
The bracket bolts that attached to the rear of the throttle body and intake.....Start those FIRST before you tighten the intake and remaining throttle body bolts down. This will give you some needed play in the upper intake and throttle body to get them started as it is a tight fit behind there.
BE GENTLE with the coils. If you toss them around all ***** nilly those springs can sometimes break.
Look inside the spark plug tubes to make sure you don't have oil leaking in. just a precaution.
TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD BOLTS carefully. They do not require a ton of tourque and they should be tightened in the proper order if possible. (inside to outter).
Use a white paint pen to mark your vacuum lines so as to know where they return to when reassembling.
The bracket bolts that attached to the rear of the throttle body and intake.....Start those FIRST before you tighten the intake and remaining throttle body bolts down. This will give you some needed play in the upper intake and throttle body to get them started as it is a tight fit behind there.
BE GENTLE with the coils. If you toss them around all ***** nilly those springs can sometimes break.
Look inside the spark plug tubes to make sure you don't have oil leaking in. just a precaution.
TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD BOLTS carefully. They do not require a ton of tourque and they should be tightened in the proper order if possible. (inside to outter).
Use a white paint pen to mark your vacuum lines so as to know where they return to when reassembling.
The following 2 users liked this post by HtownBlue:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24),
Snowbir (06-29-24)
#5
More good tips, I have printed your DIY and are in the RX Binder for near future use. As well as tips and tricks. But your DIY is GREAT! Full of helpful details, A must have.
The following users liked this post:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24)
#6
Notes: Clean your throttle body while you have it out.
The bracket bolts that attached to the rear of the throttle body and intake.....Start those FIRST before you tighten the intake and remaining throttle body bolts down. This will give you some needed play in the upper intake and throttle body to get them started as it is a tight fit behind there.
BE GENTLE with the coils. If you toss them around all ***** nilly those springs can sometimes break.
Look inside the spark plug tubes to make sure you don't have oil leaking in. just a precaution.
TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD BOLTS carefully. They do not require a ton of tourque and they should be tightened in the proper order if possible. (inside to outter).
Use a white paint pen to mark your vacuum lines so as to know where they return to when reassembling.
The bracket bolts that attached to the rear of the throttle body and intake.....Start those FIRST before you tighten the intake and remaining throttle body bolts down. This will give you some needed play in the upper intake and throttle body to get them started as it is a tight fit behind there.
BE GENTLE with the coils. If you toss them around all ***** nilly those springs can sometimes break.
Look inside the spark plug tubes to make sure you don't have oil leaking in. just a precaution.
TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD BOLTS carefully. They do not require a ton of tourque and they should be tightened in the proper order if possible. (inside to outter).
Use a white paint pen to mark your vacuum lines so as to know where they return to when reassembling.
The following users liked this post:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24)
#8
Great write up, thank you. I just did mine at 105k. The most difficult task was removing the two bolts in the back of the intake. I was only able to use an open end wrench, there was no room for anything else. The good news is the car is 9 years old, so I won't be doing it again for a very long time.
The following users liked this post:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24)
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ColemanMisty (06-01-24)
#13
If you need too, you can use a little bit (emphasize little) of gasket silicone to put on the NEW GASKET FOR THE REAR COVER to help keep it in place (within the groove) as you push it toward the rear placement. It rubs and knocks against stuff so it can at times "fall" off and come out of the groove. I did this and let it dry for 20 minutes and it stayed in perfect alignment with the groove when reapplying the rear valve cover gasket.
The following users liked this post:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24)
The following users liked this post:
ColemanMisty (06-01-24)