banyan

I am trying to remove the crank pulley with no luck. I am using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a 24 inch extension but the bolt just will not budge. i am also using a fabricated metal channel as the holding tool which is working ok, but the bolt is just too tight.

any tricks from those who have done this DIY would be much appreciated.

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

You can try using the starter to break it free...some people do this. Perhaps htownblue can chime in...he has experience here. Only other thing i can think of is spraying some deep creep on it but it might not penetrate that well. Good luck.

alchemist

iTrader: (1)

By the way, another route is using impact, but i assume you didnt have one.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...-balancer.html

thomas1

put a pipe over the breaker bar and extend it a little, remember the bolt has been loctited and just needs that nudge....

HtownBlue

You basically have 3 options. All three of which I have tried and succeeded with.

1 - easiest method: Impact Wrench with a high tourque setting. This will take it off. However, do not use a rinky dink set up to attempt this as yo uneed a wrench with some KAHONES to get it done.

2 - Use a 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar that is beefy and a 6 SIDED SOCKET TO FIT THE BOLT. a 12 point risks damaging the bolt. Arrange the breaker bar to the point where it is running up against the sub frame or the control Arm area. THEN use the starter to simply break the bolt free. DO NOT ATTEMPT to start the car. Just a quick tap of the key or two should do it.

3 - I used a thick breaker bar AND a 3 foot pipe that weas beefy. Now admittadly I had the vehicle on a lift which helped give me room to play. I would do this method last. It takes strength and stubbornness. I played Linebacker at a D1 Football major university and trust me when I say you better be strong or have a long breaker bar to get it off. I seriously thought I was going to break the socket, breaker bar, or even the pipe before it gave way.

Hope this helps friend.

Also remember to feed the timing belt COUNTER CLOCKWISE STARTING AT THE CRANK to feed it back on without skipping a tooth.

banyan

thank you all for the responses. I finally was able to get that bolt out by using a beefier SEARS 1/2 drive 18 inch long breaker bar plus a 6 ft long cheater bar (pipe).

I am now trying to install the new timing belt. I just wanted to make sure I am reading the timing marks on the crankshaft correctly. The instruction procedure does not describe it clearly. Here is my interpretation. Please let me know if I am correct:

The Crankshaft timing pulley has (2) timing marks:
1. The crankshaft timing pulley has a back plate that has a timing mark. This is what needs to line-up with the water pump mark to set the timing at TDC.
2. The crankshaft timing pulley also has a smaller pulley (where the timing belt rides on) that has another timing mark. This is what needs to line-up with the timing belt installation mark (dashes). This timing mark is about 90 degrees clockwise relative to the back plate timing mark.

Am I reading it correctly?

RX330inFL

Walk softly and carry a big breaker bar.

Harbor Freight has a 1/2" x 25" under $15 for anyone wanting one in their arsenal.