replace cv joint?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
replace cv joint?
Recently found a click noise while turning, suspect it is a cv joint problem, given my 2007 Rx350 just past 100K miles. Is this a possible DIY job please? I think myself as a handy man, although my wife disagree. and I only change engine oil before.
If I did it, I will take pictures step-by-step, post them and part No list on this forum, as a payback because this forum really helps me a lot!
If I did it, I will take pictures step-by-step, post them and part No list on this forum, as a payback because this forum really helps me a lot!
Last edited by sweet100; 05-15-12 at 03:53 AM.
#2
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Just double checked it, it seems that the clicking noise comes from the inner end or tie rod (driver side), instead of CV axle. While I am still googling around, if anybody can shed some light, I really appreciate it.
#3
New here to forum but not to cars.. I'd suspect it'd be a bit of tough job for you if you have done only oil change before. Believe me, it's ALOT more involved compared to oil change. Take a look at some of youtube or how-to vids on CV job and you'll get the idea.
If it's making clicking noise while turning to left or right, but not straight, it's most likely CV joint gone bad. Easy way to check is to see if either side boot has a tear or leak.
GL with your situation.
If it's making clicking noise while turning to left or right, but not straight, it's most likely CV joint gone bad. Easy way to check is to see if either side boot has a tear or leak.
GL with your situation.
#4
If the clicking noise is constant when turning and not just a single click, than it is likely your cv joint. If it is a noise that is hard to replicate, than you may have another issue. My guess based on initial information is a cv joint. Is a cv joint replacement an amatuer job, not really. It is not too hard as you simply disconnect the ball joints, suspension tower, and brake assembly, bearing nut (which is not just a turn off turn on bolt), and things like the castle nuts and brake caliper brackets that attach to the steering knuckle.......get the point????
Essentially, you disconnect everything connected to the wheel and rotors then you can finally get to the axle. Then trying to get the new one in can be a hassle if the catch ring doesn't want to act right. I'm sure we would be happy to walk you through the porcess, but it is not a beginner project. You do need a decent set of tools as well.
Hope this helps friend. Let us know if we can help.
Essentially, you disconnect everything connected to the wheel and rotors then you can finally get to the axle. Then trying to get the new one in can be a hassle if the catch ring doesn't want to act right. I'm sure we would be happy to walk you through the porcess, but it is not a beginner project. You do need a decent set of tools as well.
Hope this helps friend. Let us know if we can help.
#5
My Accord had leaking CV boots and a indy shop replaced the axles.
Couple of days later, found leaking ATF where the axle met the transmission.
The car went back to the shop for rework.
I found later that it was not uncommon for ATF to leak after axle replacement.
The new seal could be pinched during installation or something else.
So, drive axle replacement could be a DIY but it could also be a pain on the first attempt, even with all the necessary tools.
That's why I leave the job to the pros.
Couple of days later, found leaking ATF where the axle met the transmission.
The car went back to the shop for rework.
I found later that it was not uncommon for ATF to leak after axle replacement.
The new seal could be pinched during installation or something else.
So, drive axle replacement could be a DIY but it could also be a pain on the first attempt, even with all the necessary tools.
That's why I leave the job to the pros.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
This is the warmest forum ever. I really apreciate you guys' input. Here is an update.
I double checked the clicking noise yesterday, good news for me is I guess is not the axle because,
1, it is random, thanks HtownBlue
2, I put my hands on tie rod and the axle, asked my two-year-old to turn the wheel while the car is parked without anything on. (He loves this job very much, but for only 3 minutes, my wife has to take over. ), I can feel that the clicking noise is from tie rod, when the wheel is turning right hard and then released suddently.
Now I am thinking to raise the car and shake the left wheel to see if I can judge it is from tie rod outer end, inner end or the steering rack. If you guys have any suggestion, I really appreciate it.
I double checked the clicking noise yesterday, good news for me is I guess is not the axle because,
1, it is random, thanks HtownBlue
2, I put my hands on tie rod and the axle, asked my two-year-old to turn the wheel while the car is parked without anything on. (He loves this job very much, but for only 3 minutes, my wife has to take over. ), I can feel that the clicking noise is from tie rod, when the wheel is turning right hard and then released suddently.
Now I am thinking to raise the car and shake the left wheel to see if I can judge it is from tie rod outer end, inner end or the steering rack. If you guys have any suggestion, I really appreciate it.
#7
This is the warmest forum ever. I really apreciate you guys' input. Here is an update.
I double checked the clicking noise yesterday, good news for me is I guess is not the axle because,
1, it is random, thanks HtownBlue
2, I put my hands on tie rod and the axle, asked my two-year-old to turn the wheel while the car is parked without anything on. (He loves this job very much, but for only 3 minutes, my wife has to take over. ), I can feel that the clicking noise is from tie rod, when the wheel is turning right hard and then released suddently.
Now I am thinking to raise the car and shake the left wheel to see if I can judge it is from tie rod outer end, inner end or the steering rack. If you guys have any suggestion, I really appreciate it.
I double checked the clicking noise yesterday, good news for me is I guess is not the axle because,
1, it is random, thanks HtownBlue
2, I put my hands on tie rod and the axle, asked my two-year-old to turn the wheel while the car is parked without anything on. (He loves this job very much, but for only 3 minutes, my wife has to take over. ), I can feel that the clicking noise is from tie rod, when the wheel is turning right hard and then released suddently.
Now I am thinking to raise the car and shake the left wheel to see if I can judge it is from tie rod outer end, inner end or the steering rack. If you guys have any suggestion, I really appreciate it.
Check the Ball joints for boot leakage of grease
Check the outer tie rod ends for play
Check the LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS as these wear out quite quickly in the RX models for whatever reason. They are the thick round rubber bushings that connect with the bolt to the frame / control arm.
Lift the wheel off the ground (securely) and try and pull the wheel with your hands alternating from 12 oclock to 6 oclock (like you're alternating pushing and pulling at 12 and 6). If you have any significant play in the wheel you either have a tie rod end issue or a bearing issue usually.
I will think of any other things to check and post later friend.
Trending Topics
#8
watching the progress on this closely as I discovered a leaking inner tie rod boot as seen in the picture... no noises, though, which I hope I should get away with only replacing the boot.
Sorry for thread jacking, OP. I hope you do not mind me busting in but this might help if you see anything similar.
Sorry for thread jacking, OP. I hope you do not mind me busting in but this might help if you see anything similar.
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
@HtownBlue, I did those steps you suggests, ball joints looks fine to me, both ends of the tie rod have no play, lower control arm looks fine. I raised the wheel and pulled it at 12 and 6, it looks to me there is not much play.
With my wife's help, my hand can feel the noise is definitely from the inner end of the tie rod.
However, when I am going to put the update here, I found bagsbie's picture, then I went back to check the inner tie rod boots leak, there is some on left side. Then I go to right side, found a huge leak there. Shoot!
After begging my wife to sit there one more time, I can feel a similar amount of vibration on both side of the inner rods while the clicking noise is happening.
Now, what is wrong please? I drained and refilled power steering fluid recently without touching any bolts or nuts. Those leaked substance is\ grease instead of pink ATF I added.
With my wife's help, my hand can feel the noise is definitely from the inner end of the tie rod.
However, when I am going to put the update here, I found bagsbie's picture, then I went back to check the inner tie rod boots leak, there is some on left side. Then I go to right side, found a huge leak there. Shoot!
After begging my wife to sit there one more time, I can feel a similar amount of vibration on both side of the inner rods while the clicking noise is happening.
Now, what is wrong please? I drained and refilled power steering fluid recently without touching any bolts or nuts. Those leaked substance is\ grease instead of pink ATF I added.
Last edited by sweet100; 05-16-12 at 08:03 PM.
#10
@HtownBlue, I did those steps you suggests, ball joints looks fine to me, both ends of the tie rod have no play, lower control arm looks fine. I raised the wheel and pulled it at 12 and 6, it looks to me there is not much play.
With my wife's help, my hand can feel the noise is definitely from the inner end of the tie rod.
However, when I am going to put the update here, I found bagsbie's picture, then I went back to check the inner tie rod boots leak, there is some on left side. Then I go to right side, found a huge leak there. Shoot!
After begging my wife to sit there one more time, I can feel a similar amount of vibration on both side of the inner rods while the clicking noise is happening.
Now, what is wrong please? I drained and refilled power steering fluid recently without touching any bolts or nuts. Those leaked substance is\ grease instead of pink ATF I added.
With my wife's help, my hand can feel the noise is definitely from the inner end of the tie rod.
However, when I am going to put the update here, I found bagsbie's picture, then I went back to check the inner tie rod boots leak, there is some on left side. Then I go to right side, found a huge leak there. Shoot!
After begging my wife to sit there one more time, I can feel a similar amount of vibration on both side of the inner rods while the clicking noise is happening.
Now, what is wrong please? I drained and refilled power steering fluid recently without touching any bolts or nuts. Those leaked substance is\ grease instead of pink ATF I added.
My guess thus far in order:
Rack issue
Inner Tie Rod issue
Rack Busing
See the link for a decent YouTube of a fella removing an inner and outer tie rod end.
#11
You can replace the boot. However, you want to make sure the inner Rack seal is not leaking. It could be the grease from the inner tie rod, but it could also be fluid from the rack leaking. When you remove the inner boot, you will have to replace the inner clamp on the boot. See link in video.
#13
I guess, the only way to determine if the substance is grease or ATF is to get in there and take the old boot off, correct? In my case the leak certainly looks more like grease. It does not smell like ATF and quite sticky to touch. I never inspected it for play though, which I should have done, thinking of it now. I guess, when I have it up I shall do that. Anyone know what grease is to be used on the tie rod end to inside the boot, just a synthetic M1 will do?
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
@bagsbie, I came across a link that might interest you, it is http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...ds/tierods.htm , it says "Remember! If there is fluid leaking out of the rack boots you have bigger problems - fluid leaks at the rack boots mean bad news - the rack seals are leaking, and you need to install a new rack. No over the counter "sealer" or other crud is going to help at all - get a new rack, and use the OEM fluid!" I hope that you are not in the same boat as mine, because mine has clicking noise.
@infinirx, yeah, a lesson I learned is that I only check the left side, actually my right side tie rod boot got a severe leak. If I check the right side earlier, it would save me a few days.
@HtownBlue, thanks a lot for your professional suggestions, I will raise the car, take off the plastic cover to check rack busing and move out the tie rod boots to see what is inside. I guess it is a bad rack, but really want to make sure because a new rack costs so much, even on eBay.
@infinirx, yeah, a lesson I learned is that I only check the left side, actually my right side tie rod boot got a severe leak. If I check the right side earlier, it would save me a few days.
@HtownBlue, thanks a lot for your professional suggestions, I will raise the car, take off the plastic cover to check rack busing and move out the tie rod boots to see what is inside. I guess it is a bad rack, but really want to make sure because a new rack costs so much, even on eBay.
#15
Bagsbie,
You can usually tell if the substance is grease versus leaking fluid pretty easily. Grease usually has a thicker texture than a leaking fluid. If you get the boot off and look inside of it, you can tell easily because it will not have as much dirt in it usually. If the boot has a crack in it, it can leak grease easily. However, if you see drips coming from the rack assembly, it may be a seal.
100 - If the tie rod ends are bad, there will be some play in them. You can move the wheel a little left and right (like the wheel is turning the vehicle) and you should be able to see some play in the tie rod. If there is no play, my guess is you have a rack issue.
Lastly, If it were the CV axle, the noise should be able to be replicated failry easily, and sometimes is easily heard when the car is going upward into a drive way while turning (at an upward angle as opposed to horizontal) as this places an angle strain on the CV Axle. Without actually driving it or looking at it I can only go by my interpretation of what is written. Double and triple check before you go buy racks or axles friends.
You can usually tell if the substance is grease versus leaking fluid pretty easily. Grease usually has a thicker texture than a leaking fluid. If you get the boot off and look inside of it, you can tell easily because it will not have as much dirt in it usually. If the boot has a crack in it, it can leak grease easily. However, if you see drips coming from the rack assembly, it may be a seal.
100 - If the tie rod ends are bad, there will be some play in them. You can move the wheel a little left and right (like the wheel is turning the vehicle) and you should be able to see some play in the tie rod. If there is no play, my guess is you have a rack issue.
Lastly, If it were the CV axle, the noise should be able to be replicated failry easily, and sometimes is easily heard when the car is going upward into a drive way while turning (at an upward angle as opposed to horizontal) as this places an angle strain on the CV Axle. Without actually driving it or looking at it I can only go by my interpretation of what is written. Double and triple check before you go buy racks or axles friends.