thomas1

You could probably use a gear puller on that tool. Instead of grabbing the pulley you could grab the tool which is attached to the pulley with the two 8mm bolts...

dbl047

How long did it take you to do it?

rxpx40

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to take a long leave from this thread. I must not have my settings properly marked to notify me when a response is added.

To answer your questions:
I would start earlier in the day. I am at my best during daylight hours and working well into the night was not bright.
Performing 'Round 2' of the procedure went much easier and I would not hesistate to do another timing belt change. I worked smarter and used the right tools instead of trying to use the air ratchet. If you have one, use it where you can, but understand you can't use it everwhere.
I would also install the timing belt with one of the lines the factory puts on the belt aligned with the notch on the rear camshaft pulley. This makes verifying alignment a snap. Tie wraps on the cam pulleys will help keep things from moving as you try to get the belt on the water pump and crankshaft pulleys.
Finally, make absolutely sure you rotate the engine through at least 360 degrees crankshaft rotation before buttoning up the whole thing.
This isn't something I overlooked, it is a rule of thumb I always use when messing with cam timing.

Chris

thomas1

Hey I am half way there, everything apart...The pulley bolt tool worked fantastic...man I dont think I have every removed one of those bolts so easily....Wish me luck water pump next.....and than the rest....

salimshah

The easiest I have heard is using the starter.

Salim

thomas1

Well finished, had to put all of the wiper assembly etc. back together, refilled the coolant, and it started and ran smoothly....Yea timing belt, waterpump, both idlers, coolant and an oil change...all for under $250.....lots of parts, but the neat thing about the 400h is no power steering pump, or alternator to move. I did have difficulty with the rear cam kept jumping a tooth, but finally got it set right. Rotated engine 10 times and checked the timing on each cycle...was dead on....by the way used cable ties to try and hold the belt to the cam gears, but the rear cam would jump it anyway...Seems the rear cam is a real bugger....

rxpx40

iTrader: (1)

Outstanding Thomas1!
Saving that kind of ca$h always is a good feeling. Not to mention there is no worry whether the job was done properly.

Chris

rsen99

Jumping in on an older thread.... Couple questions
1) How easily does the water pump go past the 2 studs sticking out of it. I have everything tore down to the water pump and am waiting for a stud extractor tool to remove the studs.

2) Why do the instructions say to rotate 60 degrees BTDC? Doesn't this make everything out of time when the belt comes off?

Thanks

salimshah

I have not replace the t-belt on RX.

1). There is a metal bracket that prevents the water pump to come out smoothly. See the video.

1b) Do you really need the water-pump replaced. I am nearing 160K miles and would replace the water pump every 180k miles.

2) If every thing is moved ahead by 60degrees they are still in sync with each other. The 60degree is a point where you can still see all the marks (wrt to timing belt) and the Varaible valve based cam position does not lower the valve to hit the top of the piston [at tdc you would]. The variable cam WILL spin on you once the belt is off and you will have to spin it BACK and at 60degrees it will not interfere the the pistons. You would install the belt at 60degree for both the cams and the main (this is where the marking on the new belt comes very handy. If you buy a non-oem belt (which does not have markings), make sure you mark the old belt (including front arrow) and transfer them to the new belt).

I replaced T-belt on SC recently and wanted to tell every one that the marks on the belt should be used for the first time to ensure the slack is on the tensioner side. I spun every thing and could never bring the belt mark to match the pulley-to-belt markings. You have to use the pulley to engine block markings to confirm every thing is good.

Salim

Barryst

If you jack up the motor ever-so-slightly, you can slide off the water pump, and leave those studs where they are. Thats what I had to do. My studs were going to break!

Good Luck!

-barryst

rsen99

Decided to do water pump as well because I could see dried Pink residue on motor and the engine started to make a 'pumping' sound - for lack of a better term. Sound was from motor and not from AC or PS. I thought it might be the bearings in the water pump or idler pulley.

If this works out, I was planning on doing a write up and would definitely cite the video.

NOsburn

I just had my timing belt replaced on my 2002 SC430 while in Florida. If I had been home in Wisconsin, I would have done it myself as I replaced the valve cover gaskets before we left for here. I did not realize not so much the miles but the time that it is 10 years old. Hate to have valves and pistons banging each other! The local dealer charged 4 hours labor. I had the water pump replaced at the same time. That was about $150. It is another 4 hours of labor if it goes out later....

gscott2

I am in the midst of the timing belt replacement project on a 400h. The posts here have been very helpful, but I am not clear on what is accomplished in Item 27.c. of the removal instructions (attached earlier) - turning the crankshaft 60 degrees CCW. The quote above seems to respond to it, but it's still not making sense to me. The NOTICE in section 27.c. is talking about a conflict betwen the piston head and valve head "when you remove the camshaft timing pulley and camshaft." Since the camshaft isn't being removed this step doesn't seem necessary.

Further confusing things is steps 2e, f and g in the installation instructions. In 2.e. it says to turn the crankshaft 60 deg CCW (a duplicate of the step in 27.c), then in 2.f. you set the timing pulleys with their timing marks on the rear belt cover and then in 2.g. you turn the crankshaft back 60 degrees clockwise to line up with its timing mark. Since the timing belt is off after section 27 in the removal instructions it doesn't seem like any of that back and forth is necessary.
Also, when the crankshaft rotates 60 degrees the timing pullesys rotate 30 degrees based on what I'm seeing. Am I missing something? Thanks.

compdr59

If you think that's a nightmare try doing one on a PT Cruiser. I did that one almost two years ago and it took me two days.

I just changed the one in my wife's 04 RX330. I purchased the Aisin TKT-026 kit on Amazon for $141 and it wasn't as bad as I thought. I had to reposition the power steering pump a few times to access the tensioned bolts. I was concerned about lining up timing marks with limited viability on the rear camshaft. Fortunately the belt had timing marks printed on the belt. I just placed it on the rear cam gear, locked it with a tie wrap and put the belt on the front cam gear and crank gear. Good thing I did the work because the water pump was leaking. This job took about 6 hours and I even had time to change the spark plugs.

LexieToo

Finally got an answer to my exact question! Thanks so much, compdr59. I needed to buy a timing belt kit and was not sure which to purchase for my 04' RX330. Found your post, found the TKT-026 on Amazon for $166 and will have my mechanic put that sucker on! Wish I had the knowledge/tools to complete the job myself, but I'm still saving a TON of money!