Timing belt change nightmare
06-28-16, 03:25 AM
#63
Driver School Candidate
I'm about to get my RX330 2004 97K timing belt and water pump changed next month my mechanic told me once he gets into it he will determine whether or not it needs new seals if there's any leaks. If no leaks he will not replace them.
06-30-16, 07:31 AM
#64
It's cheaper and easier to just get the seals done when in there. If they start leaking 20k miles afterwards it's an expensive fix, or just a leaky mess until you get the tbelt done again.
10-21-16, 02:35 PM
#65
there all the same, i had a friend in dubai that had a ls400 brought to him from the u s and 95% parts are interchangeable, btw like 1 in 4 cars in the UAE is an LS modle.
11-07-16, 08:35 AM
#66
Driver School Candidate
2006 RX 400h:
Just finished my timing belt (w/kit), seals & water pump. Not hard but time consuming. The belt looked pretty good, seals even better. Water pump leak, dried pink gunk around weep hole, the seal/gasket was fine. The weep hole was the leak. About six hour but took my time. The mirror and the rear cam seal is ruff. I bought a OEM kit from Evergreen Parts with a Mitsubishi belt that had cam and crank markings. Forget the mirror!! Once **"everything is TDC"**, at least front cam and crank, the rear cam therefore has to be. Take the belt off, rotate the rear cam froward, till you can see the timing mark on the cam gear, a-line the cam mark on the gear to the new belt cam mark (solid line), a-line the front cam gear mark with the belt cam mark (solid line). Use plastic ties or strong clips to hold both in place. A-line the belt crank shaft marks (dotted line) with the belt sprocket dot. Replace tensioner bearing, idler bearing and hydraulic tensioner. Check by feel to be sure that every tooth has found a home in the sprocket. You will have to move the the cams and crank doing it this way but as long as marks on the cams and crank a-line with the the correct marks on the belt you are good. However, if you want to drag out the mirror for a final check.....................go for it. P.S. Be sure the belt is facing out/away from the motor, arrows toward you.
Just finished my timing belt (w/kit), seals & water pump. Not hard but time consuming. The belt looked pretty good, seals even better. Water pump leak, dried pink gunk around weep hole, the seal/gasket was fine. The weep hole was the leak. About six hour but took my time. The mirror and the rear cam seal is ruff. I bought a OEM kit from Evergreen Parts with a Mitsubishi belt that had cam and crank markings. Forget the mirror!! Once **"everything is TDC"**, at least front cam and crank, the rear cam therefore has to be. Take the belt off, rotate the rear cam froward, till you can see the timing mark on the cam gear, a-line the cam mark on the gear to the new belt cam mark (solid line), a-line the front cam gear mark with the belt cam mark (solid line). Use plastic ties or strong clips to hold both in place. A-line the belt crank shaft marks (dotted line) with the belt sprocket dot. Replace tensioner bearing, idler bearing and hydraulic tensioner. Check by feel to be sure that every tooth has found a home in the sprocket. You will have to move the the cams and crank doing it this way but as long as marks on the cams and crank a-line with the the correct marks on the belt you are good. However, if you want to drag out the mirror for a final check.....................go for it. P.S. Be sure the belt is facing out/away from the motor, arrows toward you.
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