RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009) Discussion topics related to the 2004 -2009 RX330, RX350 and RX400H models

RX330 gets a DNX6960

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-05-16, 12:22 AM
  #106  
guyrat7
Rookie
 
guyrat7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: VIC, Australia
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Alexus416
Only the front speakers work?

How do you get the rear speakers to work as well?
Alexus - you need to splice the wiring coming out from the amp for the rear. I did it and am piggybacking on the rear speaker wires.
Old 02-05-16, 09:11 AM
  #107  
uh2
Driver School Candidate
 
uh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: OHIO
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

[QUOTE=guyrat7;9353071]UH

Not sure what happened...


You definitely want to replace the front speakers. There's a huge difference in sound quality between stock and aftermarket. I DID leave the 3" OEM dash squawkers in place though and they seem to be up to the task. You could ...maybe....get away with using an aftermarket amp with the stock speakers. The stock amp is definitely a weak spot IMHO. Anyways...

I did see what appeared to be an in line capacitor as a crossover near the tweeter (going by memory here). I don't see why that would be a problem for you though if you're replacing the speakers and want to use the stock wiring. Just remove the OEM speakers and the crossover, replace them with the focal drivers. If your focal crossover is too big to mount up front, then mount it where the stock amp is and tap into the stock wires as they leave the OEM amp.

Last edited by uh2; 02-05-16 at 09:15 AM.
Old 02-06-16, 02:22 AM
  #108  
guyrat7
Rookie
 
guyrat7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: VIC, Australia
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

[QUOTE=uh2;9353450]
Originally Posted by guyrat7
UH

Not sure what happened...


You definitely want to replace the front speakers. There's a huge difference in sound quality between stock and aftermarket. I DID leave the 3" OEM dash squawkers in place though and they seem to be up to the task. You could ...maybe....get away with using an aftermarket amp with the stock speakers. The stock amp is definitely a weak spot IMHO. Anyways...

I did see what appeared to be an in line capacitor as a crossover near the tweeter (going by memory here). I don't see why that would be a problem for you though if you're replacing the speakers and want to use the stock wiring. Just remove the OEM speakers and the crossover, replace them with the focal drivers. If your focal crossover is too big to mount up front, then mount it where the stock amp is and tap into the stock wires as they leave the OEM amp.
Thank you! now thats valuable information. IF there is an inline cap where I can reach it, then its all good. i might be able to use the old wires and position the crossover in the kickpanel. gonna check that tomorrow. Thanks!
Old 02-07-16, 04:26 AM
  #109  
uh2
Driver School Candidate
 
uh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: OHIO
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

[QUOTE=guyrat7;9354532]
Originally Posted by uh2

Thank you! now thats valuable information. IF there is an inline cap where I can reach it, then its all good. i might be able to use the old wires and position the crossover in the kickpanel. gonna check that tomorrow. Thanks!
Sorry, I'm a little confused. Are you WANTING to use the inline OEM cap or are you trying to bypass it?
Old 02-07-16, 06:16 PM
  #110  
guyrat7
Rookie
 
guyrat7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: VIC, Australia
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

[QUOTE=uh2;9355639]
Originally Posted by guyrat7

Sorry, I'm a little confused. Are you WANTING to use the inline OEM cap or are you trying to bypass it?
going to bypass it. I yesterday watched some tips from sonic electronix and they say its better to run aftermarket speaker wires rather than use the stock wiring. the main reason they give is that the stock wiring go through different connectors and may add noise to the system.
Old 03-12-16, 06:27 PM
  #111  
chris948
Driver School Candidate
 
chris948's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by uh2
I installed an Android head unit and a 5 channel Pioneer amp that feeds all the internal speakers plus a subwoofer. It sounds GREAT (I replaced the tweeters and mids in the front, and left the stock dash "squawkers").

I just tapped into the stock speaker wires leaving the stock amp (I totally bypassed the stock amp).

I tried to start my own thread, but apparently i don't have enough posts and/or haven't been active long enough.
how was getting the 12v ignition and memory wires without the amp? Also, what do you miss without it? I've been meaning to disconnect the stock amp and see what beeps don't happen, but been lazy

Wish you could start a thread with what you did.
Old 03-13-16, 06:55 AM
  #112  
uh2
Driver School Candidate
 
uh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: OHIO
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by chris948
how was getting the 12v ignition and memory wires without the amp? Also, what do you miss without it? I've been meaning to disconnect the stock amp and see what beeps don't happen, but been lazy

Wish you could start a thread with what you did.
The amp is located behind the rear bench. I was able to easily tap into 12v wires that the stock radio was using. I used a schematic of the stock connector that spelled out which wire was which. It was probably the easiest part of the install. The hardest part was tapping into the stock speaker wires leaving the amp. It's a very tight bunch of wires.

I didn't lose any default beeps/sound by bypassing the amp, so no worries there.
Old 03-14-16, 04:11 PM
  #113  
guyrat7
Rookie
 
guyrat7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: VIC, Australia
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by uh2
The amp is located behind the rear bench. I was able to easily tap into 12v wires that the stock radio was using. I used a schematic of the stock connector that spelled out which wire was which. It was probably the easiest part of the install. The hardest part was tapping into the stock speaker wires leaving the amp. It's a very tight bunch of wires.

I didn't lose any default beeps/sound by bypassing the amp, so no worries there.

Did you replace the tweeters on the A-pillars? I read some threads and did not want to take it apart fearing I would damage the airbag or set it off accidentally

So I placed the new tweeters on top of the mid range ones. I don't use the mid range since I only used a 2 way components.
Old 03-14-16, 05:25 PM
  #114  
uh2
Driver School Candidate
 
uh2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: OHIO
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by guyrat7
Did you replace the tweeters on the A-pillars? I read some threads and did not want to take it apart fearing I would damage the airbag or set it off accidentally

So I placed the new tweeters on top of the mid range ones. I don't use the mid range since I only used a 2 way components.
I detailed all of this in my thread that the mods won't post because apparently I haven't posted enough or been active long enough ....but I've seen other users with less time/posts able to start threads. Maybe it's because I'm logging in with my Facebook ID....dunno.

Anyways, yes I replaced the tweeters. Taking the A pillar cover off wasn't THAT difficult, and once you do the first one the second is a breeze. There was a trick I used to make one of the clips come out easier. I think I just used a needle nose pliers and squeezed it together so it came out with no troubles.

I removed the mounting bracket from the stock tweeter and mounted my Alpine tweeter to it. Make sure to cross fire the tweeters before you put everything back together. The driver side was a really close fit, but I was able to get the pillar cover back on. It looks totally stock. I left the squawkers connected.

If you remove the positive cable from the battery before doing any of this work, you won't trigger the air bags. The air bags aren't going to be a problem.
Old 03-14-16, 06:47 PM
  #115  
guyrat7
Rookie
 
guyrat7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: VIC, Australia
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by uh2
I detailed all of this in my thread that the mods won't post because apparently I haven't posted enough or been active long enough ....but I've seen other users with less time/posts able to start threads. Maybe it's because I'm logging in with my Facebook ID....dunno.

Anyways, yes I replaced the tweeters. Taking the A pillar cover off wasn't THAT difficult, and once you do the first one the second is a breeze. There was a trick I used to make one of the clips come out easier. I think I just used a needle nose pliers and squeezed it together so it came out with no troubles.

I removed the mounting bracket from the stock tweeter and mounted my Alpine tweeter to it. Make sure to cross fire the tweeters before you put everything back together. The driver side was a really close fit, but I was able to get the pillar cover back on. It looks totally stock. I left the squawkers connected.

If you remove the positive cable from the battery before doing any of this work, you won't trigger the air bags. The air bags aren't going to be a problem.
Thanks. I read that the A pillar clip can be used once only. I searched online for a replacement clip - in case I remove the pillar- but couldn't find anything similar.

I might give the needle nose plier a try.
Thats how I placed the tweeter. The Focals came with a matt black angled base that looks really good

Old 04-02-16, 06:10 PM
  #116  
chris948
Driver School Candidate
 
chris948's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by uh2
The amp is located behind the rear bench. I was able to easily tap into 12v wires that the stock radio was using. I used a schematic of the stock connector that spelled out which wire was which. It was probably the easiest part of the install. The hardest part was tapping into the stock speaker wires leaving the amp. It's a very tight bunch of wires.

I didn't lose any default beeps/sound by bypassing the amp, so no worries there.

thanks. I was thinking if I was really going to throw out the stock amp one day and replace it with a 4 channel and new speakers, I'd just pull up the floor too and run new wires.
Old 05-10-16, 05:42 PM
  #117  
Ismaili
Driver School Candidate
 
Ismaili's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Essex
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 1koolfella
i promised you a few snaps so here goes. I was used my camera phone so please excuse the poor quality.

This is the rear of the pioneer avh-p8400bh.

I used the metra axxess to retain all of my steering wheel control functions along with the beat sonic kit. Although with both i lost the ability to view the dvd on the factory unit, but that's not a big deal for me.

Beat sonic kit was easy to use, it was a matter of matching the colors with pioneer wire harness. Only thing you lose is fading your rears. You will hear music from all speakers, you just wont be able to fade the rears, but i can still fade left and right.


With the metra axxess kit, i also purchased the toyota wire harness to make things easy. With the metra axxess kit, it's generic and you have to download the pdf to know which wires you will need to splice into the factory wire harness. I could of did it that way but i didn't want to cut into any factory wires. So i got the snap on kit metra 70-8114 toyota, which snaps on the factory harness and the other end goes to the metra axxess kit, and the 3.5 mm wire that goes to the back of the head unit.
i just ordered beat sonic rx 82 for my rx 400h ml+navi 2006 and a double din pioneer avh x3700bhs head unit.

My question is will beat sonic rx 82 harness be plug and play with new pioneer head unit's harness or will i need to splice/cut solter some wires?

Will harness that comes will new pioneer head units plug straight to beat sonic kit or wire cutting is required?

Many thanks
Old 11-07-16, 05:41 PM
  #118  
wildta
Rookie
 
wildta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CO
Posts: 73
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

This is a great thread! Found it as I was researching how I might install this new Sony head unit for $500 with Android Auto and Carplay:
https://blog.sony.com/press/sony-in-...-connectivity/

Specs:
http://www.sony.com/electronics/in-c...yers/xav-ax100
Old 11-08-16, 12:22 PM
  #119  
wildta
Rookie
 
wildta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CO
Posts: 73
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by uh2
If you remove the positive cable from the battery before doing any of this work, you won't trigger the air bags. The air bags aren't going to be a problem.
FYI for good safety practices, you should always remove the NEGATIVE cable post first on a car battery in addition to removing any jewelry prior to doing this work, ie wedding bands. The reason being is that if you are using a metal wrench and accidentally touch any grounded part of the car (or your jewelry touches any grounded part of the car), you could really hurt yourself by creating an electrical short circuit.

Last edited by wildta; 11-08-16 at 12:25 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
97-SC300
SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
25
10-30-16 03:12 PM
scorpionge
IS F (2008-2014)
16
03-12-16 12:05 PM
meade916
IS F (2008-2014)
50
07-29-15 04:39 PM
Weapon F
IS F (2008-2014)
21
10-19-13 03:44 PM
tientony
SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
87
03-23-12 11:50 AM



Quick Reply: RX330 gets a DNX6960



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:18 PM.