Adamjeeps

I am trying to replace my rear rotors on my 2007 RX 350. I can not get them off. It appears it is one piece and bolted in with the hub? I have never seen one like that. When I go to lexuspartsnow .com and use my VIN I can not see an actual rotor part but I do see a part for PLATE SUB-ASSY, PARKING BRAKE, RH 46503-0E010 and it appears to include the rotor as well.

I am crazy or do I just need to use a little more force with the hammer? Also, I guess I have to put the vehicle in neutral in order to fully turn the hub? I have the parking brake off but can only turn the hub about a 1/8 of a turn before the transmission stops me.

Adamjeeps

Well I found the separate rotors on the parts diagram, but I still can't get the back one off. I swear it look like a black plastic hub nut is holding the rotor on the hub. Also, I have spun the rotor around 360" and still can't see where to adjust the parking brake. I have to use a lot of force to turn the hub, that might be why my rotor is stuck. I will try to get a pic up in a minute.






Do I need to remove the black hub nut?

kiwi

i just serviced mine the other day, so i know for a fact that they come off no problem,

what typically happens is whoever put them on lest never put any anti seize on the hub prior to installing the rotor.

in the larger picture you posted you can clearly see 2 smaller holes directly accross from each other, those are there specifically to assist getting the rotor off. i forget the size of the bolt, but you need to get 2 bolts and thread them into both holes, then just tighten them equally and the rotor will be separated.

other option is to protect the studs,(cuz you will hit them) and just wail on the rotor with a large hammer. you will no bend or warp the hub.

another question is why are you replacing them?? if you are just doing it beacuse you have new rear pads you are wasting your money, just throw the pads in and be done with it.

the only reason to replace rotors is because they are too thin, or you get a vibration.

kiwi

the adjuster is at the bottom

Adamjeeps

I am definitely getting vibration. I got the right rear off no problem after using the 2 bolt holes.

The left rear is another story. I could not get the rotor off after an hour of trying. I could get the rotor about 75% off but then it would not budge. I could shine a light at the bottom looking for the adjuster but it looked like it had moved to the left about an inch and there was a loose spring (green or blue can't rememeber) at the very bottom inside the parking break assembly. It looked from behind like the whole parking break assembly was trying to come out with the rotor.

I will put my new pads on anyway and I guess I will test and if able drive it to the Yota dealer and have them look at it. Maybe they will install my new rotor while they are at it.

Thanks for replaying and I'll report back what the Toyota dealer says.

salimshah

You need to turn down the park brake shoes. Turn the rotor till the big hole is in line with the star cog. (typically when the hole is at 6 O'clock (bottom)).

Turn the cog with a flat screw driver. There is a special tool you can buy but the screw driver works fine. Remember to push the rotor all the way back (just in case the edge is torqued and binding with a groove).

Once you back down the shoe and are able to take the rotor out, examine if there is a lip in the drum. There should not be any on a good rotor.

{I am sure you have the parking brake fully released .,,, just double check**

Salim

Adamjeeps

Salim, i tried to do all that you said, but I think something is wrong with the parking brake assembly. After removing the passenger side, I saw the adjuster and made a mental note of what the driver side would look like. I reassembled everything and I am getting a grinding sound. The reason I want to replace the rotor was the inside pad had worn down to the metal and had gouged it slightly (wife not paying attention to unusual sounds). I am now wondering if a sticking park brake somehow caused the inside pad to bind. The right rear side had plenty of pad remaining so something is/was not performing correctly on the driver side.

kiwi

the rear brakes and the parking brake are completely separate, they do not affect one another.

if you have some springs loose in the parking brake area, that could cause an issue as something could get jammed /broken, you might end up buying more parts.

i would try and wrestle that rotor off, try putting a pry bar between the rotor and the backing plate (one on each side) and rock the rotor off

biff44

I have not changed RX rear rotors, but I have had rotors stuck before. Once because the parking brake was stuck on and would not let the rotor slide off, and once because the rotor was rusted into place. Lots of WD40, heating the rotor up with a torch, and wailing on it with a sledge hammer did the trick....eventually, in every case.

Adamjeeps

Well I finally got the driver rear rotor off and found several pieces of the parking brake assembly loose. I tried to get it back together but one of the pieces was broken. Hope the dealer doesn't hurt me too badly on getting it back in working order. At least I've got smooth and quiet brakes now.

Another good note:A humming noise I was getting at speed is now gone so it must have been the low quality brakes someone used before me.

Thanks to all for your help.

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

What did you do to remove the rear rotors? My car is experiencing the same problem. Parking brake is too tight and I can't turn the hub to even access the adjuster wheel.

Adamjeeps

Put the vehicle in neutral, I think that is why the hub won't turn. The rotor eventually came off with prying.

RX330inFL

I always thought you were to use a set of bolts in the two locations on the front of the rotor to pop those off as kiwi mentioned. Always works for me across brands.

mandyfig

Ditto, the 2 bolt holes will release the rotors. Just do it slow and evenly. It will pop off.

rcy

I know there are two people now in this post with rotors stuck on. In many cases, the rotor is rusted to the hub. To prevent this in the future, I would encourage everyone to use some anti-seize (you know that pasty silverey or coppery coloured paste) on the small flange of the hub that the rotor fits over. I always do this and the rotors slide right off.

I also put the anti seize on the back of the wheel at the points where they touch the hat of the rotor. Not so important with alloy wheels, but I got into the habit after trying to remove a steel wheel that had rusted to a rotor when helping a friend mount winter tires.