This is helpful too:
Some tips I wish I'd read here.
1) The actual screw you can undo (the only screw behind the light) is a red herring. I think the engineers put it there as an inside joke. Ignore it.
2) The panel being referred to is THE ENTIRE BACK PLASTIC PART. If you're looking for an "access panel" you'll miss the forest for the trees.
3) I needed a long flat screw driver to get the pins out. The tip about trying to get the pin out of the door and not the pin out of the panel is good. Everything about the "look" says remove the pin from the panel. Another inside joke I suppose.
4) Twist the socket thing counter-clockwise a quarter turn to get it out. Bulb has these little fins things that scream "pull straight down" but again, you guessed it, another inside joke.
And finally, make sure you have the right bulb. I didn't so off to the store again.
I hate to say it but once you get the inside jokes it's pretty easy. My old car was an Audi and it was, for all intents and purposes, impossible - no inside jokes, just flat out "you need to pay someone" to change a lightbulb.