bagsbie

As the title of the thread implies I am a noob here, although, I did browse through the existing threads and found a wealth of information on how to do the brake pads replacement. Thank you, all. One thing I am still not sure about is whether I absolutely need to bleed the brakes after I am done replacing the pads? The car is 2006 with 43k miles. I am planning on doing the front ones first this weekend.

howdybob22

You may need to flush the brake fluid if it has not been done. Routine maintenance said to change it every 2 years or 30,000 Miles. If your brake fluids has been flushed recently, then you don't need to bleed it - just swap out the pads.

xfirechief

Suggest bleeding out all the old fluid with new synthetic fluid.
Suck out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir & refill with new stuff, put the cap back on. If you have a brake bleeder use it, otherwise start with the caliper on the right rear & bleed out the old fluid then the left rear, then right front & finish with left front. Get 2 qts. of new fluid and pump out as much of the old stuff as u can. CAUTION, Do not let the reservoir run dry, fill it often & put the cap on before flushing each one.

Grumpa72

You do NOT need to bleed brakes because of brake pad replacement. You can just replace the pads and go driving.

That said, brakes should be bled periodically because the brake fluid absorbs moisture and can corrode (rust) your brake lines and calipers from the inside out.

xfirechief

I agree that you do not need to but it is a good idea to do it for the reasons stated by Grumpa72. New brake fluid can make a world of difference, especially if it has picked up moisture. Brake fluid, even 100% synthetic is cheap compaired to having moisture & brake problems down the line.

bagsbie

Thanks, guys, for the responses. I am planning on changing the brake fluid a soon as I buy some high quality stuff some people recommend on here (ATE SuperBlue) but for now my wife's car is in dire need of new front brake pads.

Scottydog

If you are changing out the pads it's an easy time to flush/bleed the brake hydraulics, while you have the wheels off. It's a lot cheaper than brake master/slave/line replacement when they get gunked up, not to mention performance improvement.

Btw ATE SuperBlue is great stuff, but will stain your fluid reservoir blue! Go with the clear stuff.

bagsbie

is there any comparable to ATE SuperBlue high temp brake fluid you can recommend? The dealer told me any DOT 4 would suffice but of course they do not care.

Lexmex

ATE also makes an amber color fluid, http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...e200_amber.jsp

Same stuff as the blue, http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...blue_fluid.jsp

Scottydog

Try ATE Amber http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/a...e200_amber.jsp or maybe Castrol synthetic.

The racers flush their brake lines all the time, and alternating between blue and amber makes it easier to see when the lines are adequately flushed. the average person will leave the brake fluid in long enough for it to discolor a bit.

Make sure you are familiar with brake bleeding procedures, or you have a friend who has done it before. I haven't looked it up but is the bleed order RR-LR-RF-LF?

Lexmex

That's the correct bleeding order.

bagsbie

The brake fluid must have been already changed by the previous owner. I did the front brakes this morning, no sweat! I followed the procedure outlined by a couple of people from here (Lexmex, I think, I referred to your post as well. Thanks!). The rears appear to be in good shape: rotors must have been replaced as they look brand new, so I think, I am done for now. When the time comes to do the rears, I'll do the brake bleed. What's the acceptable lip before rotors need to be turned or replaced?

Lexmex

I go by feel on the rotors. If I feel vibration when braking from say decelerating off the highway (or say in the 1/4 mile like I did in Mexico), I've got a problem with the rotors, otherwise I don't touch them at all.

At high altitude in Mexico City, I had rotor issues given the low oxygen environment and of course excessive braking, but haven't had a peep out of those same rotors since I got back to the U.S.

Scottydog

Rotors are cheap enough now that I don't bother turning them, just replace. $20 to turn (and thin out), $35-40 to replace. It's really a no brainer on your luxury SUV. Mercedes mechanics never turn rotors.

I agree with Lexmex, if they feel good when braking (not warped, no vibration) and they feel pretty smooth with minimal grooves leave em. If you question their condition just get some new ones.