LEXMICK

Does anybody know the bleeding sequence for 2000 RX300 FWD?

xfirechief

The old school way was to start with the one that is furthest away from the master cylinder & work your way to the closest.
But that old school, anyone have a update?

salimshah

Still applies. That level of physics has not changed. It is based on the longest pipe will have the most air (will be most compressible), so you bleed that air out. If that air is left in, the closer points will not get the volume of fluid. You will be spending lot more time/effort to bleed the air.

Now once the air is out of all sections, it really does not matter. To flush the line, once again it is better to replace the longest pipe's fluid.

Salim

harleydjce

A common misconception. Just because it's "old school" (I hate that term) doesn't mean it's wrong.

salimshah

Getting off topic ...

But there are times when a new research debunks the old established rules ...

ex:
It is now suggested that the pair of tires with better traction (better treads) be placed on the rear instead of the front [does not matter if it is FWD or RWD].

The physics has not changed, but in simple logic .. braking, steering, weight are more on the front was never tested against the break in traction of the rears.

Salim

LEXMICK

Very good discussion... thanks a lot guys.

Scottydog

I use Motive Power Bleeder on my vette. Don't know if they make an adapter for the Toyota brake master cylinder. It's super easy.

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=122794747

Boognish

To continue our off topic romp...
This whole business of putting the more worn tires on the front is hogwash, imho. If you're keeping two tires that would make the back end step out under normal driving conditions you definitely should be replacing all four! Of course, if you rotate your tires twice a year it should never be an issue unless you get a flat which cannot be repaired.

Club Lexus Editor

Seems like a great subject for today's How-To Tuesday article...
https://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/...e-fluid-363512

numbafree

I love my motive power bleeder! that and a mity vac or syringe to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, you are golden.

I will say, I don't actually put the brake fluid into the power bleeder, I use put it in the reservoir of the car or motorcycle I don't use a power bleeder everyday like a mechanic would, I don't want to mix old brake fluid with new brake fluid.

Here's my steps:

1) open the res and suck out the old fluid with your weapon of choice (syringe, turkey baster, mity vac)
2) of course I've put all kinds of rags down in case I drip and I always have one on my shoulder so when I pinch off the tubing from the bleeder screw I don't drip. hate that.
3) I bleed from the farthest wheel to the closest, already covered. I refill the res with fresh BF and I take note of WHERE the fluid evacuates the res, cuz it ain't always at the bottom of the res. I usually do 10 PSI, and I check the BF level in the res after every wheel, and top off if needed.

takes me 20 minutes to do 1 car, and about 1/2 liter.

Since I track bikes and cars, I'm a bit of a nut about fresh brake fluid. cheap insurance. I flush my brake fluid in all my gas powered toys (just to get some fresh fluid in the calipers) every six months. Or after every track day. With motul 600, after 1 track day, I would have already colored the fluid. I definitely tend to brake harder, initially than most street drivers, so that may generate more heat in the BF, than gramps driving to the store.

The universal power bleeder is $60, mity vac $35, BF ATE 200 1 liter $15.

iMSQ

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I've tried a lot of different things over the years and now I use an Alcatel 2008A roughing vacuum pump to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. The same one I use to pull down the A/C and regenerate the receiver/dryer before refilling with R134a, just with a quart jar inline to catch the fluid. I put Earl's solobleeders on all my cars so I can easily bleed the brakes all by myself without pressurizing anything. I learned a long time ago unless you have a piston pushing the fluid without any air, you're dissolving some kind of gas into the fluid with whatever is pushing on the fluid. So, I'd rather just use the master cylinder to push the fresh fluid I just used to refill the reservoir into the system.

I've toyed with using the same vacuum pump to pull fluid through the system, but it pulls too hard (7 cfm - 3.3 l/sec peak, 1 x 10-4 Torr final vacuum) and just gets lots of leakage around the threads of any kind of bleeder so you really can't tell when the bubbles are gone. The big advantage to doing this is it outgasses the brake fluid at the same time it bleeds. I've also tried using it on the reservoir to pull gas out of the fluid, but it just turns out to be a great way to suck air through the seals on the master cylinder piston which is counter productive.

Also - there's no new thinking around putting the better tires in the rear. That was caused by the attorneys a long time ago. It ensures the car will understeer, and if you've read you know why ALL the manufacturers build understeer into their chassis right at the drawing board, and ALL the attorneys insist on ensuring this remains intact.