RX 350 Oil Change Procedure
04-03-07, 07:12 AM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
RX 350 Oil Change Procedure
Just did my first oil change on my Canadian made RX350 MY 2007. I don't have pictures, but description might help others.
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
The following 2 users liked this post by 1Lieutenant:
RXtrefiddy (02-22-23),
waterbender2007 (02-03-24)
04-06-07, 07:07 AM
#3
Lead Lap
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#1 Pick up phone
#2 Call Lexus dealer
#3 Make Apointment
#4 Drop off car
#5 pick up car pay dealer
Just joking, Thank you for the helpful post I try to DIY whenever I can. I think the satisfaction is more important than the money you save andit saves a lot of time by DIY.
#2 Call Lexus dealer
#3 Make Apointment
#4 Drop off car
#5 pick up car pay dealer
Just joking, Thank you for the helpful post I try to DIY whenever I can. I think the satisfaction is more important than the money you save andit saves a lot of time by DIY.
04-07-07, 06:36 AM
#4
Rookie
Thread Starter
I originally called the Lexus dealership for 10K mile oil change. They quoted me $190 to rotate tires, "top off" fluids (I check them regularly and all are OK) and replace the oil with synthetic. I found this a bit over the top. I get the feeling that they assume that if I buy a Lexus, I should expect costly service.
My 5K mile service was free. Upon removing the filter housing, it became apparant that no torque wrench was used. It was definitly muscled on. I guess when you own the car, you care a bit more.
Steve
My 5K mile service was free. Upon removing the filter housing, it became apparant that no torque wrench was used. It was definitly muscled on. I guess when you own the car, you care a bit more.
Steve
The following users liked this post:
waterbender2007 (02-03-24)
04-07-07, 07:48 AM
#5
Driver
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I get my first oil change for free at 8,000 kms. I also purchased a book of five coupons at $480.00 for complete cleaning and detail which included five free oil changes. Darn good for a Lexus dealership to offer.
04-07-07, 01:06 PM
#6
Lead Lap
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got my free 5,000 mile change today. I brought down some Mobil 1 synthetic but the dealer told me to save it for next time and take the free oil this time. Even though the car is a lease I still like to take good care of it and put synthetic oil in it. I do not plan on keeping it after the lease end but if I change my mind and keep it I will be happy that I used the Mobil 1.They did wash the car for free also. But I can't understand why they would take off the driver side floor mats and put them in the rear storage area. I did report that the drivers air bag warning light was stuck on, could there be some kind of wire under the mats they had to do something with to fix the air bag light? They gave me a RX400H as a loaner car which I don't usually get when I service the Jeep so I was able to run some errands while the oil was being changed.
Last edited by silvervett; 04-07-07 at 01:12 PM.
05-04-07, 07:33 PM
#7
Yes, once you do your 1st oil change, you would not trust anybody else to do it. Yes it is the satisfaction that you get knowing you did things right.
Trending Topics
07-16-07, 08:10 AM
#9
Where's the link to the re-post?
07-28-07, 07:01 AM
#11
Pole Position
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Part #'s
Do you have the cross referenced Toyota part numbers that equate to the Lexus ones. I have a Toyota dealer close by but the Lexus dealer is about 40 miles away. There was some confusion over this a few days back.
08-04-07, 10:57 PM
#12
08-05-07, 10:33 AM
#13
Just did my first oil change on my Canadian made RX350 MY 2007. I don't have pictures, but description might help others.
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
15. Open up a cold beer, chug-chug-chug.
04-18-08, 08:55 AM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts