DIY 2005 RX330 Mudguards pictures......
05-17-05, 11:08 AM
#31
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Nept_Mica
Lextranny
The picture that was recently posted of the rear mudguard.....
The single screw inserted from the bottom looks totally out of place. It sticks out like a sore thumb.
Does anyone else agree?
The picture that was recently posted of the rear mudguard.....
The single screw inserted from the bottom looks totally out of place. It sticks out like a sore thumb.
Does anyone else agree?
06-18-05, 11:07 AM
#33
I just finished this project on my RX. Came out great!
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
06-19-05, 10:01 PM
#34
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rxdriver
I just finished this project on my RX. Came out great!
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
Tips for those of you that haven't done it yet...
- Buy a 4mm hex bit for your socket wrench. You could use an allen wrench, but the rachet is much faster! I bought a 6 piece set of metric hex bits, 3/8" drive, for $20. There are 12 screws (8 in the box, plus 4 existing on the car) with this kind of head on them.
- Two other screws have a 10mm hex head. If you don't have metric sockets, you should!
- Don't bother with the metric drill bits. They call for 3mm for the pilot holes, and 9mm for the finished holes. 9mm is a hair under 3/8", which is huge. You don't need anything like that... the screws are nowhere near that big. I did great with 1/8" pilot holes and 1/4" finished holes. You just have to make sure the spring nuts are centered on the holes.
- Using a rachet and the smaller-than-prescribed drill bit, I had no issue with the wheels in the way or getting under the car with the drill. (Each one has a single screw in the bottom. There isn't much room in the front for drilling from underneath; the rear is easier.)
- All drilling you do is into plastic, so that's a piece of cake. Do follow the advice of using a smaller pilot hole, as it ensures the larger drill bit won't wander around.
- Finally, there's a trick I found to putting on the rear flaps. On the top of page 8, put in the bottom spring nut of the 3 BEFORE you mark the holes. The spring nut will only sit in one place, because the curve of the plastic in the corner coupled with the lip on the spring nut prevents you from putting the spring nut all the way into the corner. Put the spring nut where it wants to be near that corner, and then line up everything else accordingly. Mark everything, take the spring nut out, and drill everything.
Otherwise, the directions are excellent. It's an easy DIY project.
Congrats! Don't they look awesome! I think it makes the car more sporty looking.
02-24-06, 02:12 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Lextranny
Thanks!!!
All RX330's don't come with the mudguards. You either installed it yourself or have the dealer installed it for you. By the way, my Lexus Dealer wanted $200 (labor) to install the mudguards plus the cost of the mudguards. $135. $200+$135 = $335.
I only spent $88.
All RX330's don't come with the mudguards. You either installed it yourself or have the dealer installed it for you. By the way, my Lexus Dealer wanted $200 (labor) to install the mudguards plus the cost of the mudguards. $135. $200+$135 = $335.
I only spent $88.
Could you give me info where did you buy those mudguards? i would like to add
look to my RX330 Breakwater besides it protects your car finish from debris while driving on
a wet or dry road.[/B][/B]
02-24-06, 04:26 PM
#36
02-27-06, 11:45 AM
#37
I added them to my 05 as well. Anyone hesitant to add them because of they are worried about how difficult they are to install, let me put your mind at ease. Like previously mentioned, you are only drilling through plastic so that eliminates a little of the worry. The screw clips make the rest of the installation a breeze. As always, measure twice and drill once.
I'm guessing it will take a few months for the color to match the other black trim.
I would agree that they should be standard issue.
Alex
I'm guessing it will take a few months for the color to match the other black trim.
I would agree that they should be standard issue.
Alex
03-17-06, 03:13 PM
#38
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by lexigirl06
Could you give me info where did you buy those mudguards? i would like to add
look to my RX330 Breakwater besides it protects your car finish from debris while driving on
a wet or dry road.[/B][/B]
look to my RX330 Breakwater besides it protects your car finish from debris while driving on
a wet or dry road.[/B][/B]
www.irontoad.com
03-29-07, 03:40 PM
#39
Pole Position
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. It cost me $88 + $10 shipping -- Confirmed it was a lexus part before buying.
Will update how the installation goes.
Is it a good idea to get the car washed before installing the mudguard?
Last edited by sama; 03-29-07 at 05:31 PM. Reason: spelling
04-04-07, 11:12 AM
#40
Driver
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Bought the Lexus mud guard Product : 08414-48820 couple of days ago on ebay Mudguard
. It cost me $88 + $10 shipping -- Confirmed it was a lexus part before buying.
Will update how the installation goes.
Is it a good idea to get the car washed before installing the mudguard?
. It cost me $88 + $10 shipping -- Confirmed it was a lexus part before buying.
Will update how the installation goes.
Is it a good idea to get the car washed before installing the mudguard?
04-09-07, 10:02 AM
#41
Pole Position
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lone Star
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Bought the Lexus mud guard Product : 08414-48820 couple of days ago on ebay Mudguard
. It cost me $88 + $10 shipping -- Confirmed it was a lexus part before buying.
Will update how the installation goes.
Is it a good idea to get the car washed before installing the mudguard?
. It cost me $88 + $10 shipping -- Confirmed it was a lexus part before buying.
Will update how the installation goes.
Is it a good idea to get the car washed before installing the mudguard?
I am 
Thanks to everybody
Last edited by sama; 04-09-07 at 10:25 AM.
04-30-07, 08:56 PM
#42
Tell us where you got them again? irotoad, is he a member?
05-03-07, 11:21 AM
#44
Definitely worth it. It really looks good with it. Plus some protection. If they are OEM, perfect fit, they rock!
05-12-07, 06:53 AM
#45
I am just itching to get me a set....easy install, right?