thaeleelyr

I started getting a stiff wheel, jacked it up and noticed that when the wheel turns it looks like the struts are catching then releasing, causing a clunking sound. One side was worse than the other. Two years ago they were switched out with Monroe mounts/bearings. Pulled them and put Moogs in this time. Wheel turned fine, no clunking sounds. Dropped the car, drove for a bit, less than a mile and the stiff wheel came back with the clunking. Jacked it up, switched out the Moogs for new replacement Monroes. The Moog bearings came out in pieces. Same thing, everything seems to be fine, a few miles later I get a stiff wheel when turning. I decided to try flipping the bearings in case they were in upside down. Same thing (fine in beginning, stiff after a bit) only when I stopped on a slight incline (nose down) everything started working smooth again. Two days the car drove fine, plenty of miles in the test. In the meantime a friend took a photo of the bearings and confirmed that I had them in correctly the first two times and that now they were in upside down. At the end of the second day I was coming to a faster than normal stop on a slightly bumpy road with a turn and I felt a slight stiffness, then cleared immediately. It happened again on a similar road/stop conditions. Very quick, I wouldn't have noticed but that I was looking for trouble. Other than that it seemed to be working fine.

Jack the car up, there is a slight clunk sound from the right side. I decided to switch the bearings back to right side up. Bearing came out in one piece. Put it all back together and everything sounds/works perfectly. Drop it and it worked for less than a mile when the stiffness and clunking came back big time.

I have no idea why it seems to be binding in the mounts. This is only when turning the wheel and once it starts you can see it whether it's on the ground or jacked up. I don't think it's the pump or rack. The fluid looks good (I flushed it anyway), there is no smell or whining. I suspected the rack but that every time I remove/replace the mounts, the symptoms go away for at least a little bit.

The pictures attach show the bearings. The one with the mount is the way the Toyota mechanic said it was supposed to go in. Can I get opinions on which way is the correct placement and possible causes of the problems.

JAB

I had a very similar problem with a 2000 Subaru Outback. I came to discover that a previous owner (or his mechanic) had failed to install a conical-shaped spacer during reinstallation of a front strut assembly.

Drcoffee

Check your lower ball joints. That's how they will present when failing.

salimshah

Its been a while, but there is procedure that must be followed ... preload and then torque down. If you torque things with the wheel in air then it can cause problems.

Salim

thaeleelyr

@Salim: Are you talking about torqueing the retaining nut or the 3 nuts that hold it in place on the car? Can you describe the procedure?

Lower ball joint is new with no problems.

fastnoypi

are you compressing your springs before torquing to spec your retainer nut?

thaeleelyr

Yes, I thought that was the correct procedure.

salimshah

I posted that in a strut thread a while back. I will add the link, when I come across it. Lot of distractions going on right now for me.

Salim

fastnoypi

Yes, that is the correct procedure. Just checking. What torque spec are you using? Too high can crush the bearing pack.

thaeleelyr

The paperwork I have is 36 ft. lbs. for the center retaining nut and 59 ft.lbs. for the three mount nuts. Are you supposed to grease around the bearings? I thought they went in dry but maybe I'm wrong about that.

I talked to a Toyota mechanic and he seems to think maybe it's the universal joint from the steering wheel shaft but I don't understand why everything seemed to get better when I put the bearings in upside down and it's acting up when they are back right side up. I'm still not convinced on their orientation. Do you have an opinion on that based on the pictures?

fastnoypi

I double checked my manual..your torque specs are right. I dont recall the orientation of the bearing but i recall taking my front strut apart and noting the orientation of the old bearing pack. I did use grease during reassembly, though it was just instinct, nothing that i noted from the manual. One thing to look at is the orientation of the strut mount top, it has an angle to it. Maybe you have one or both pointed in the wrong direction.

maxSteel

If it happens when jacked up perhaps you can disconnect the tie rod to isolate it from the rack &shaft and then see if it still happens.

thaeleelyr

It seems to definitely be coming from the mounts. I found the "seating" procedure mentioned in another post and did that, just for kicks, but the problem is still there. I disconnected the steering rack and can still hear the noise from the mount. I'm going to try installing new strut assemblies. All of the components are in correctly. Everything was checked and double-checked, so I don't think anything is in wrong. Plus, everything is marked. I'll report back if the new strut assemblies work.

041002

have you solved the problem?
i know its a long time, i have the same problem now...