When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't think it was a bad connection as neither of my old ones threw that code ever, and I made sure clip was completely locked in after the initial install before I went out for the test run and again checked it when I got back before I removed it just to make sure it didn't separate... Don't know if I should try installing it at B2 to see what happens but since it was such a pain to get that one off and again the reinstall, I'm not really not considering it... Just annoyed at the fact that this new sensor threw a code I never saw before within a mile on the road and neither of my old sensors did...
The scanner I'm using is a mini ELM327 Bluetooth scanner... Purchased it about 4 years ago on fleeBay for about $5 shipped... Also came with a copy of Torque Pro for pc and android... I still have the mini disk for pc but don't remember if it also has the iOS app software in it... This is the one I have... Wish that I was also capable of seeing engine oil pressure, engine oil temp and fuel pressure with it... Not sure if the ecu has that capability to send these readings out but this elm327/torque pro combo I use does not read them...
My 234-9009 arrived today, which was purchased off Amazon from Denso. And as promised, below are the pictures I took for comparison to your earlier pictures of the AF you had purchased. The markings on the brass colored barrel are very feint, but they say DENSO, Assembled in USA, then there is a serial number.
Other than your markings on the barrel (which indicate yours was made in Japan) the only other thing I notice that is different is the color of the barrel itself. Yours is not a brass color like the one I received, nor is it like the old one you had replaced. From your pics it looked more silver in color.
Keeping my fingers crossed that Denso's trademark "First Time Fit" turns out to be true. Will let you know once I am able to swap it out. I am also keeping my fingers crossed that your swapping of your Bank 1 to Bank 2 AF continue to solve your code issue.....
I think you will be fine with that one... Came in a box an all, nice
I wound up getting refunded for mine and just chucked it in the trash, seller didn't want it back... I also took the time to try it on bank 2 and it threw a p1155 code within a mile so now I have been running with both my old sensors without any codes for the last 40 miles or so... I saw a slight improvement when I cleaned the rear plugs and torqued them down a bit more than they were, didn't have a torque wrench at the time nor the correct torque setting on hand, I'll torque the new ones
I think you will be fine with that one... Came in a box an all, nice
I wound up getting refunded for mine and just chucked it in the trash, seller didn't want it back... I also took the time to try it on bank 2 and it threw a p1155 code within a mile so now I have been running with both my old sensors without any codes for the last 40 miles or so... I saw a slight improvement when I cleaned the rear plugs and torqued them down a bit more than they were, didn't have a torque wrench at the time nor the correct torque setting on hand, I'll torque the new ones
Let us know if you are able to get the torque wrench in that tight space
I had the opportunity to change out the non-OE AF Bank 1 Sensor 1 on Saturday. Luckily it took me longer to get a loaner A/F socket than it took to actually remove/replace the A/F sensor (thanks to Auto Zone, and no thanks to the O'Reilly's- who only wanted to sell me a socket)
I had daily prepped (3 days) the old sensor by: spraying with WD40 and lightly tapping on the sensor. Came right off with standard 3/8" ratchet. Base on reading prior threads, I had expected to use a hollow pipe as a breaker bar, but luckily there was no need. Cleared the codes and they (P0125 and P1130) have not come back on the three daily drives of about 10 miles each. (still crossing fingers that the issue has been solved.)
P1130 is the A/F Bank 1 Sensor 1 located by the firewall, and P0125 is for Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Close Loop Fuel Control; which in reading various threads also sometime trips off due to a bad A/F Sensor.
Below you can see the differences to the non-OE sensor on the left to the Denso USA on the right. While it is not the Toyota OE bought from the dealership, Denso is manufacturer of the Toyota OE, so I felf pretty safe purchasing direct from them.
The Denso is longer overall, with the sensor itself being larger in diameter and having less holes in the sensor. The electrical connector also had brass and silver terminals, vs. all silver in the non -OE.
Glad to hear yours was also easy to pull... I didn't put any oil on bank one sensor and was surprised it came out so easy without soaking it... Bank 2 was a nightmare to pull and put back on for me.
When I went to get the loaner sockets I actually had to pay for them then I just got refunded when I returned the set, it was factory sealed still, first time I ever did a loaner tool from an auto parts store and didn't know what to expect but that is how they do it I guess... The set shown in pic was about $50 with tax "OUCH" so I made sure it was returned same day... I used the 1/2 socket but kit also included the 3/8... The 18" pipe over the ratchet handle worked without breaking a sweat, don't think I really needed it at bank 1 but it definitely came in handy at bank 2... I probably would have broken 3/8 socket or ratchet there as it was that bad to move...
BTW, I have driven about 100 miles since I cleaned the rear plugs and no code yet, Hope it stays like that... Mileage is slightly better but not consistently good so don't know if plugs are causing it... I'm still running with the swapped old a/f sensors.
Let us know if you are able to get the torque wrench in that tight space
Salim
I plan on changing to the new plugs only when I get time to change valve cover gaskets and tube seals so will be doing it with everything apart, I don't want to throw in new plugs with leaking tubes... I can however take the same parts off first same as when I recently cleaned the rears and try my torque wrench setup to see if it will work for just a plug change without removing plenum... I used a full sized 3/8" ratchet when I pulled the rears and had no problem getting it to work back there, I just connected/diconnected ratchet with the extension/swivel/socket down in the tube... my 1/4 torque wrench is a couple inches longer than the 3/8 ratchet I used but still think it may work
The most recent codes and caused engine light to blink for a short while then went solid and stayed solid
Well here it is, a new code to figure out... Ever since I cleaned the plugs it seemed to have gotten better temporarily but it got worse real quick ever since... Not sure if the wire brush cleaning caused more bad to plugs than good but will be swapping the old rear plugs soon to the front and taking fronts to rear to see if the codes follow to bank 2... Then will be swapping rear coils to front as time goes by and if codes pop again... Basically I'm still troubleshooting in the dark in hopes to find a solution... Least code points to cyl 1.
Guess I'll be trying the torque wrench in the rears sooner than I was expecting...
Odometer is now @ 106,930
I'm just trying to post all my details so that I can also go back and re-read what I have done and when it was done and hopefully it will help others as well.
In an attempt to still get to the bottom of my guzzling problem I am replacing the pcv hose as the end tips are cracked and hose is very hard... I had inspected it several times to check for any cracks beyond the tips but found none... Now I just decided it was cheap enough to replace and get it out of the way as a possible leak since things have gotten worse every time I remove the hose and put it all back together... It's a long shot but cheap enough and easy enough to replace... And moving the 3 rear plugs to front and front to rear still causing P0171... I have time to keep experimenting so I'll keep fiddling...
Anyway, I found the oem toyota part number to be 12261-20011 for that hose... I don't mind waiting for online orders so I found it on amazon but first thought that I had time today to take a ride to toyota dealer to get it instead of waiting so I called to check stock before I headed there... I called local dealer (Dayton on rt130) and asked If they had part #12261 20011 in stock, I have part number and parts dept asked what vehicle it was for... I said 99 rx300 and was told they don't sell parts for lexus, so I changed vehicle to 2002 highlander instead and was told parts don't interchange with lexus, wtf... I have purchased both ocv valves from this place, rear brake pads, pcv valve/grommet, power antenna mast, spark plugs, etc etc etc and now parts no longer work... Either they just hired an incompetent parts guy or they no longer want to sell parts when you tell them it's for a lexus, isn't the part # good enough?
Well like I said, I can wait for parts to arrive in the mail so ordered oem on Amazon for 10.30 shipped and didn't have to talk to anyone who didn't want to do their job...
10-07-16, 05:47 PM
