Capacitor Help Needed
05-25-16, 06:32 PM
#31
And just after I posted that last comment I now see something that looks like corrosion in the last photo at the lower right corner, at C104, D008, D009 and D010. 
The most obvious is between D008 and D009. That blueish residue is very suspicious. If you can, take a close up photo of that area, and then scrape away that material with a toothpick and blow off whatever you loosen up and take another photo afterwards.
The most obvious is between D008 and D009. That blueish residue is very suspicious. If you can, take a close up photo of that area, and then scrape away that material with a toothpick and blow off whatever you loosen up and take another photo afterwards.
05-25-16, 08:55 PM
#32
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
And just after I posted that last comment I now see something that looks like corrosion in the last photo at the lower right corner, at C104, D008, D009 and D010.
The most obvious is between D008 and D009. That blueish residue is very suspicious. If you can, take a close up photo of that area, and then scrape away that material with a toothpick and blow off whatever you loosen up and take another photo afterwards.
The most obvious is between D008 and D009. That blueish residue is very suspicious. If you can, take a close up photo of that area, and then scrape away that material with a toothpick and blow off whatever you loosen up and take another photo afterwards.
05-25-16, 08:58 PM
#33
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I have some pictures still on my iPad and iPhone from when I had the ECU out of the car. I actually put it back in the car and am having the exact same issues... No change in symptoms after I put it back.
05-26-16, 10:30 AM
#34
Moderator
Your ECU will keep behaving oddly as it continues to dry.
I would toss it.
Salim
I would toss it.
Salim
05-31-16, 04:35 PM
#35
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
As soon as I am allowed to post in the classifieds, I will be posting an ad on this vehicle.
Not selling it in this thread! I know the rules! Would love suggestions, should I part it, or sell it whole?
Not selling it in this thread! I know the rules! Would love suggestions, should I part it, or sell it whole?
05-31-16, 06:19 PM
#36
Moderator
Suggestions still are:
Take it to dealer ... let them diagnose it for a fee (costs much less than what you would loose if you sell as non-working RX).
Take a gamble and get a used ECU. Assuming all ground and power lines to the ecu are good.
Salim
06-01-16, 09:27 AM
#37
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Let me know if you want this to be moved to your other thread.
Suggestions still are:
Take it to dealer ... let them diagnose it for a fee (costs much less than what you would loose if you sell as non-working RX).
Take a gamble and get a used ECU. Assuming all ground and power lines to the ecu are good.
Salim
Suggestions still are:
Take it to dealer ... let them diagnose it for a fee (costs much less than what you would loose if you sell as non-working RX).
Take a gamble and get a used ECU. Assuming all ground and power lines to the ecu are good.
Salim
Thank you for your help... I really wish I could come up with a plan to fix this car.
Money is an issue... Not having a car is feeding the no money problem... I'm on a merry go round!
06-01-16, 11:54 AM
#38
Moderator
I assume this diagnosis includes the possibility that you are getting power and ground to the ECU, but the ECU is dead.
Back to my suggestions ,, with VOM check voltage at all 12v pins of the ecu [you would need wiring diagram] and you can check for 0 ohms between Ground pin and body.
Once that is assured then take a chance by getting a replacement ECU.
Salim
Back to my suggestions ,, with VOM check voltage at all 12v pins of the ecu [you would need wiring diagram] and you can check for 0 ohms between Ground pin and body.
Once that is assured then take a chance by getting a replacement ECU.
Salim
