ADKLEXUS

I was at a bit of a crossroads with my 2000 RX300 AWD. The car now has 191k, original motor and transmission. The car still runs like a champ, and everything works! Service is up to date, good brakes, and decent tires. No leaks, no oil burning or leaking, ice cold AC, etc., etc.

I was thinking it might be time to part with the Lexus, but I know I won't be able to get into anything nearly as decent or reliable as my Lexus, so I think I'm going to spend a bit to tighten some things up so I can get another few years and 50k out of it.

Unfortunately, it is starting to feel a bit like a 191k car in terms of the suspension and steering. I know I need to do all 4 shocks, but the steering is also quite loose, and it just doesn't ride or hold a line like it used to.

I'm ready to spend about $2000 to get things up to snuff- where would this money be the best invested?

I am not a master mechanic, but have done quite a bit to this car on my own- complete brake job and flush, transmission service, timing belt, water pump, etc.

Thanks for the help!

P.S. The folks on this forum are a lot nicer than the TDI forum I subscribe to. The wife's car is a 2015 Passat TDI currently caught up in the dieselgate mess.

fastnoypi

master mechanic skills are not needed for what you want to do to freshen up your RX knowing you've done an involved jobs like timing belt service.

consider getting F/R sets of KYB GR2/ExelG struts. Keep the OEM strut tops but use KYB bellows if the originals are destroyed. If the front OEM strut tops are not bent and good condition, get new strut bearing packs. Otherwise get new OEM front strut tops. If any of your sway bar links are found to have rips in the grease boots, it would be a good time to replace them as well.

Your steering rack bushings are probably worn out, and causing the loose steering allowing the rack to move around. Several vendors on ebay and amazon carry them. Be sure to lube with marine grade grease to avoid squeaking.

salimshah

Diagnosing the root cause of the problem takes a special level of skill and carrying on repairs is another. [master mechanic and just mechanic in my view]. You need to stress out the suspension and find out what is causing the play. You can even take it to Lexus or suspension shop and pay them to diagnose the problem. Some do it for free in hope of getting work done at their shop.

Salim

thaeleelyr

I just did the font end to tighten up the steering. I had about the same amount of mileage as you do and the same kind of issues. I did the struts about 6 months or so before that. Given what has to come off, I wish I had done everything when I did the struts. When I started taking things apart, I could really see how worn the rubber components were. What ultimately got me to do the front end was a weeping CV axle. With everything coming off, there were other concurrent parts I ended up replacing to save myself the headache later. I'm glad I did it.

The other thing I learned in doing the struts was that it was MUCH easier and safer to unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm to install the lower strut mount bolts, then install the ball joint onto the lower control arm. While it is a few extra steps, for me it was ultimately worth it rather than fighting to get the strut in the proper placement with all that tension on it.

What I did for the front suspension was:
struts and upper mounts/bearings
lower control arm
ball joint
inner and outer tie rod ends
sway bar bushings (probably the easiest thing to do)
sway bar links

I used aftermarket parts instead of Lexus, mostly Moog. I'm not sure how important the inner tie rods were, but everything was apart so they got done. You may decide to forgo that particular pain. I ALMOST wish I had just also pulled out the rack and pinion and rebuilt it while I was at it, but I was pressed for time. You may have to rent some specialty tools, but I think it is within shade-tree mechanic territory.

You will need an alignment afterwards.

The results are that it isn't a wobbling monster going down the highway anymore. I would say my parts costs were well under $1000, that is including two new CV axles. My tool rental costs were somewhere in the neighborhood of $300, but I did get all of that back (just something to budget)

civicmon

I'm thinking of going down this route. I want to replace my struts and figure that I might as well replace all the bushings and control arms while I'm down there. Think I might go sans the axles since some people have replaced them at the same time.


Where did you order the parts from? I know you're in WV and saw some other pics you uploaded... my car has rust but not nearly as bad as yours. Was it a real PITA to do it given the rust? How long did it take?