Changing Oil when there is no history
05-15-16, 11:48 PM
#47
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I'm with you on questioning the oil change intervals. I have two Nissan Maximas. A 2000 with the 3.0 and a 2002 with the 3.5 and 6-speed. The 00 gets changed every 15,000 miles and the 2002 gets changed every 10,000 since it's modded and gets driven harder. Both get Mobile1 10W/30 extended performance synthetic.
I believe the E-torx is an E6 size. It's a good idea to get a small set of E-torx sockets. A seven piece set from E6 to E16 is cheap and handy. You could probably get it at the auto parts store. I don't use them often but when I need them...
If you're removing the plenum to do the rear, be prepared to fight with the two 10mm allen bolts on the plenum. I HATE those type of bolts as they tend to strip. If you use an allen socket instead of the bent allen key it's better. If it STARTS to strip, stop right there and grab a ball peen hammer. Set the round part of the hammer on the bolt and give it a couple good wacks with another hammer. This will deform the head and shrink the hole. Put your allen socket on it and hammer it into the hole. It should come out after that. I replaced those two with some regular 6 point bolts but I had to grind the plenum a little to make room for the socket to slip over the wider bolt head.
It's not uncommon for valve cover gaskets to shrink and have some of the bolts feel loose. The bolts will only tighten so far even without the gasket in place. Even if the gasket is pliable, it has still shrunk to a point where it wont compress all the way. Tightening them may temporarily slow the leak but it would return. Leaking oil does a lot of damage to rubber components and wiring so it's not worth doing a half repair. I'd swap the tube seals too. Just chisel them out with a screwdriver.
The big hose gets stiff. Just pull/twist it. You can also pry it back with a screwdriver if you're careful.
I believe the E-torx is an E6 size. It's a good idea to get a small set of E-torx sockets. A seven piece set from E6 to E16 is cheap and handy. You could probably get it at the auto parts store. I don't use them often but when I need them...
If you're removing the plenum to do the rear, be prepared to fight with the two 10mm allen bolts on the plenum. I HATE those type of bolts as they tend to strip. If you use an allen socket instead of the bent allen key it's better. If it STARTS to strip, stop right there and grab a ball peen hammer. Set the round part of the hammer on the bolt and give it a couple good wacks with another hammer. This will deform the head and shrink the hole. Put your allen socket on it and hammer it into the hole. It should come out after that. I replaced those two with some regular 6 point bolts but I had to grind the plenum a little to make room for the socket to slip over the wider bolt head.
It's not uncommon for valve cover gaskets to shrink and have some of the bolts feel loose. The bolts will only tighten so far even without the gasket in place. Even if the gasket is pliable, it has still shrunk to a point where it wont compress all the way. Tightening them may temporarily slow the leak but it would return. Leaking oil does a lot of damage to rubber components and wiring so it's not worth doing a half repair. I'd swap the tube seals too. Just chisel them out with a screwdriver.
The big hose gets stiff. Just pull/twist it. You can also pry it back with a screwdriver if you're careful.
thanks for the great help and tips guys. i got the valve cover off (got the socket but probably could've used pliers since they weren't that tight) and got halfway through the job before it got dark out. when i tapped out the tube seals in a few seconds, i realized only the inner part broke off and the outer material seemed completely stuck to the cover. after i banged around for awhile i realized they actually come out quite easily if you hit them in the right place and get enough grip either on top or the side of them for traction.
anyhow, ran into another potentially huge problem. after cleaning up for the day i noticed a small puddle of oil underneath the car. it was coming from the rear vc though, not the front one that i had just removed. it can't be a coincidence that the one day i work on the front vc that there is all the sudden leakage from the rear, could it? i know things like that don't happen overnight, but is there any way my working on the front provoked the rear in any way? i just find it hard to believe the coincidence. i don't think i can tighten any of the rear bolts without removing everything in the way and i wasn't planning to change the rear gasket since nothing was leaking and everything is in good enough condition to leave alone.
05-16-16, 05:50 AM
#48
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I'm pretty sure no oil leaked from the rear cover while you were working on it. Valve covers leak when the car is running and pumping oil up to them. I'm guessing the puddle is from residual oil that made it's way down while the car sat or another oil leak that's being hidden by the oil leaking from the VC above it.
05-16-16, 10:05 AM
#50
I might point out that after using Castrol Oil European synthetic 0-30 weight my engine was cleaner. The crust even disappeared in the filler area. This was a long time ago, and I am not sure if that oil is still available. The engine ran smoother also. just my old RX300 experience. LexMex I believe used this same oil at one point.
0W-30
0W-40
I recently used the 0W-40 Euro in a 7th gen accord to help with an oil consumption issue and it so far seems to be working. I am going to put the 0W-40 in my RX300 at the next change.
05-16-16, 07:10 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
I'm pretty sure no oil leaked from the rear cover while you were working on it. Valve covers leak when the car is running and pumping oil up to them. I'm guessing the puddle is from residual oil that made it's way down while the car sat or another oil leak that's being hidden by the oil leaking from the VC above it.
05-17-16, 07:44 AM
#52
Where else could it be leaking from? I looked underneath the car and it looks like it's seeping from the valve cover and makes its way down to next to the tranny pan. Oil level is smack in the middle but it was changed over a month ago and I hadnt seen even a drop on the floor. Now it's definitely leaking as there have been small puddles yesterday and today. Perhaps the full synthetic has something to do with it... although it is high mileage.
05-18-16, 05:42 AM
#53
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[QUOTE=Lexmus;9486363]The Euro 0W-30 and 0W-40 is available at amazon, although at this time the 0W-30 is about 2x more expensive due to it only being sold in individual quarts rather than the 5qt jug.
0W-30
0W-40
I recently used the 0W-40 Euro in a 7th gen accord to help with an oil consumption issue and it so far seems to be working. I am going to put the 0W-40 in my RX300 at the next change.[/QUOTE
I found the European blend to be really good on my high mileage RX300. Like I said it even cleaned the crust under the filler cap. Must have great detergents .]
0W-30
0W-40
I recently used the 0W-40 Euro in a 7th gen accord to help with an oil consumption issue and it so far seems to be working. I am going to put the 0W-40 in my RX300 at the next change.[/QUOTE
I found the European blend to be really good on my high mileage RX300. Like I said it even cleaned the crust under the filler cap. Must have great detergents .]
05-18-16, 08:17 AM
#54
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Where else could it be leaking from? I looked underneath the car and it looks like it's seeping from the valve cover and makes its way down to next to the tranny pan. Oil level is smack in the middle but it was changed over a month ago and I hadnt seen even a drop on the floor. Now it's definitely leaking as there have been small puddles yesterday and today. Perhaps the full synthetic has something to do with it... although it is high mileage.
There are a few other places it could also be leaking from but the VC has to be fixed before any other leaks are diagnosed. There's a good chance it's just residual oil that's finally been able to drip onto the driveway since the car has been sitting. It's probably been dripping on the road for a while.
The next step is to repair the rear VC leak, spray and clean up as much of the oil as possible and drive it for a few days. With the old oil cleaned up, any new oil will be obvious.
The rear is certainly more challenging than the front but there's nothing technically complicated about it. There are a few fasteners that are hard to reach but it's still just nuts and bolts.
05-18-16, 11:09 PM
#55
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Thread Starter
Clearly it's leaking from the VC and dripping down. I'm just saying that it's been leaking for a while. You didn't cause this. You could remove the rear VC all together and it wouldn't leak just sitting there.
There are a few other places it could also be leaking from but the VC has to be fixed before any other leaks are diagnosed. There's a good chance it's just residual oil that's finally been able to drip onto the driveway since the car has been sitting. It's probably been dripping on the road for a while.
The next step is to repair the rear VC leak, spray and clean up as much of the oil as possible and drive it for a few days. With the old oil cleaned up, any new oil will be obvious.
The rear is certainly more challenging than the front but there's nothing technically complicated about it. There are a few fasteners that are hard to reach but it's still just nuts and bolts.
There are a few other places it could also be leaking from but the VC has to be fixed before any other leaks are diagnosed. There's a good chance it's just residual oil that's finally been able to drip onto the driveway since the car has been sitting. It's probably been dripping on the road for a while.
The next step is to repair the rear VC leak, spray and clean up as much of the oil as possible and drive it for a few days. With the old oil cleaned up, any new oil will be obvious.
The rear is certainly more challenging than the front but there's nothing technically complicated about it. There are a few fasteners that are hard to reach but it's still just nuts and bolts.
based on what the leak looks like could anyone help rule out that the leak is coming from somewhere else? it looks like that one spot on the vc but we can't see to the right of it as the view is blocked. my mechanic changed the timing belt a year ago along with cam/crank seals and if it were related i could have him fix it.
i believe i'm capable of the job, but how long it will take and what mistakes i might make is a different question. if there were a detailed DIY i'd probably jump right in but it's already a lengthy job and i wouldn't want to prolong it by breaking something or worse. i haven't had the best luck with some of these DIY's.
Last edited by hsmac; 05-19-16 at 02:19 AM.
05-19-16, 07:24 AM
#56
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It does seem odd that a leak would start that quickly but anything we can guess here would be just a guess. Oil tends to travel down and sideways so a VC leak can end up putting oil just about anywhere.
The pic does look like a VC leak but you're right about it just starting. Usually the whole area will be black with a crust of oil and dust. It's possibly a coincidence or a PCV issue. If the PCV valve is clogged there will be excess pressure which can push oil past the gaskets. It's worth pulling the PCV valve and the fat line going to it. There should be plenty of threads on how to do that. It's a pretty simple job.
IF the PCV is clogged, fixing it MAY stop or slow the VC leak. Other than that, oil leaks don't go away on their own. They get worse. Over time the oil gets everywhere and destroys rubber, plastic and wire insulation.
I can tell you the rear needs to be swapped. You're probably due for some new spark plugs as well. I can't tell you if you should do it yourself or not. You're not lacking any specific skill for the job but it helps to have a base mechanical experience when working in tight places like this. Unplugging stiff harness plugs, removing stiff hoses, breaking tight fasteners, not stripping bolt heads, picking the proper tool etc... all become more difficult when you can't see, and can barely reach, what you're working on. Other than that it's all common sense. Questions can be asked and techniques can be shared. It comes apart and goes together one way so it's not like setting a timing belt or anything like that.
The pic does look like a VC leak but you're right about it just starting. Usually the whole area will be black with a crust of oil and dust. It's possibly a coincidence or a PCV issue. If the PCV valve is clogged there will be excess pressure which can push oil past the gaskets. It's worth pulling the PCV valve and the fat line going to it. There should be plenty of threads on how to do that. It's a pretty simple job.
IF the PCV is clogged, fixing it MAY stop or slow the VC leak. Other than that, oil leaks don't go away on their own. They get worse. Over time the oil gets everywhere and destroys rubber, plastic and wire insulation.
I can tell you the rear needs to be swapped. You're probably due for some new spark plugs as well. I can't tell you if you should do it yourself or not. You're not lacking any specific skill for the job but it helps to have a base mechanical experience when working in tight places like this. Unplugging stiff harness plugs, removing stiff hoses, breaking tight fasteners, not stripping bolt heads, picking the proper tool etc... all become more difficult when you can't see, and can barely reach, what you're working on. Other than that it's all common sense. Questions can be asked and techniques can be shared. It comes apart and goes together one way so it's not like setting a timing belt or anything like that.
05-20-16, 01:23 AM
#57
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Thread Starter
It does seem odd that a leak would start that quickly but anything we can guess here would be just a guess. Oil tends to travel down and sideways so a VC leak can end up putting oil just about anywhere.
The pic does look like a VC leak but you're right about it just starting. Usually the whole area will be black with a crust of oil and dust. It's possibly a coincidence or a PCV issue. If the PCV valve is clogged there will be excess pressure which can push oil past the gaskets. It's worth pulling the PCV valve and the fat line going to it. There should be plenty of threads on how to do that. It's a pretty simple job.
IF the PCV is clogged, fixing it MAY stop or slow the VC leak. Other than that, oil leaks don't go away on their own. They get worse. Over time the oil gets everywhere and destroys rubber, plastic and wire insulation.
I can tell you the rear needs to be swapped. You're probably due for some new spark plugs as well. I can't tell you if you should do it yourself or not. You're not lacking any specific skill for the job but it helps to have a base mechanical experience when working in tight places like this. Unplugging stiff harness plugs, removing stiff hoses, breaking tight fasteners, not stripping bolt heads, picking the proper tool etc... all become more difficult when you can't see, and can barely reach, what you're working on. Other than that it's all common sense. Questions can be asked and techniques can be shared. It comes apart and goes together one way so it's not like setting a timing belt or anything like that.
The pic does look like a VC leak but you're right about it just starting. Usually the whole area will be black with a crust of oil and dust. It's possibly a coincidence or a PCV issue. If the PCV valve is clogged there will be excess pressure which can push oil past the gaskets. It's worth pulling the PCV valve and the fat line going to it. There should be plenty of threads on how to do that. It's a pretty simple job.
IF the PCV is clogged, fixing it MAY stop or slow the VC leak. Other than that, oil leaks don't go away on their own. They get worse. Over time the oil gets everywhere and destroys rubber, plastic and wire insulation.
I can tell you the rear needs to be swapped. You're probably due for some new spark plugs as well. I can't tell you if you should do it yourself or not. You're not lacking any specific skill for the job but it helps to have a base mechanical experience when working in tight places like this. Unplugging stiff harness plugs, removing stiff hoses, breaking tight fasteners, not stripping bolt heads, picking the proper tool etc... all become more difficult when you can't see, and can barely reach, what you're working on. Other than that it's all common sense. Questions can be asked and techniques can be shared. It comes apart and goes together one way so it's not like setting a timing belt or anything like that.
i finished the front and am letting the rtv cure overnight. if there are no problems i may be more confident about the rear
i also heard someone say swapping out the pcv fixed his leaking problem. i cleaned mine after my oil change and it seemed to be functioning properly at the time. we'll see what happens after i drive my car and i'll re-evaluate after. thanks again!
05-22-16, 10:32 PM
#58
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front vc gasket replacement was successful. i tightened up that one bolt (or at least i think i did) on the rear where it appeared to be leaking and have not seen a drop of oil for two days 
hopefully this lasts or at least buys me some time to learn how to get to the rear one. am kinda temped to do the job actually.
thanks derrick and everyone else.
hopefully this lasts or at least buys me some time to learn how to get to the rear one. am kinda temped to do the job actually. thanks derrick and everyone else.
05-22-16, 11:05 PM
#59
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Awesome. Nothing builds confidence like a success. If you do the rear you'll definitely "level up" when it comes to DIY.
If you do decide to do the rear post something in this thread so I'll get a notification.
If you do decide to do the rear post something in this thread so I'll get a notification.
05-23-16, 12:59 AM
#60
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i wanted to remove the throttle body because last time i couldn't remove the iacv to fully clean it. i guess you don't need to separate the TB from the intake to get the rear VC, but i think there is overlap with some connectors that need to be removed, so maybe i'll start with that. i'd like to drive my car for awhile before doing any more work though...
thanks again i'm sure i'll have questions.
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