refreshing my new 99
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refreshing my new 99
So I picked up a 99 with 172k miles 2 weeks ago. I am undertaking the task of getting it in like new condition despite apparently the only maintenance it's had was a timing belt (awesome). So the past 2 weeks I have thanks to the diys changed, wheel bearings, brakes, transfer case oil, diff oil, trans fluid + filter and synthetic oil. Off to a good start, next on my plate are the front suspension hard items, except struts. Cv axles, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, vvt solenoids, plugs, and a battery. If you guys were in my shoes, you had an almost all original rx with 172k miles and you wanted it to drive like it just came off the showroom, what would you do? Only engine problem is an o2 sensor I'll be doing tomorrow as well. Are there any notorious maintenance items I should be doing when I have the top end off? Or the knuckles off?
#2
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So I picked up a 99 with 172k miles 2 weeks ago. I am undertaking the task of getting it in like new condition despite apparently the only maintenance it's had was a timing belt (awesome). So the past 2 weeks I have thanks to the diys changed, wheel bearings, brakes, transfer case oil, diff oil, trans fluid + filter and synthetic oil. Off to a good start, next on my plate are the front suspension hard items, except struts. Cv axles, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, vvt solenoids, plugs, and a battery. If you guys were in my shoes, you had an almost all original rx with 172k miles and you wanted it to drive like it just came off the showroom, what would you do? Only engine problem is an o2 sensor I'll be doing tomorrow as well. Are there any notorious maintenance items I should be doing when I have the top end off? Or the knuckles off?
order: what is not working.
bring maint up to date and one thing at time.
Key dont go overboard. [cv axle only if there is a rip. vvti - only if there is code. Dont jump to synthetic if reg oil has been used. switch to blend and then gradually go to synthetic or back off based on drips and leaks. Battery only if fails test.
Why do you need to take the top end off?
Are you leaking oil from valve covers? Try torquing to spec and watch.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 02-21-16 at 07:52 AM.
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Great input. Yes vvtI codes were present, I figured my valve cover's were the cause of my leak in the rear. I'm going to tighten those before changing them. I figured the right way to change plugs would be with the intake off, I've seen the reacharound instructions and I'm not sure if my hands will be able to do that.
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As vehicles age, things become brittle and least tinkering is best.
OEM valve gasket is rubber/compound, so you may be able to get away by retorquing. It would not work on cork type gaskets. There is place where FIPG is used, and if that has given way, then you will need to replace the gasket.
For plugs, you need the right extension(s).
Salim
OEM valve gasket is rubber/compound, so you may be able to get away by retorquing. It would not work on cork type gaskets. There is place where FIPG is used, and if that has given way, then you will need to replace the gasket.
For plugs, you need the right extension(s).
Salim
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Noted. For my suspension I read your lca write-up and thought to myself that it can't be that easy. I'm going to find out. The axles are flimsy and extremely old looking, so I figured axles, lcas, and all the joints should fix my high speed vibration, and braking vibration, axles are notorious for lopsided braking vibration when rotors are new. When I got the truck it looked like everything aesthetically had been taken care of. And everything mechanical had seen neglect. Do you think any long term damage has been done running 4 different tires of varying treadware, they can't all be rotating the same speed.
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