putnam00

ok I did the pvc valve cover swap and while I was at it changed my plugs. got it all together now when it shifts out of first it fludders engine pulses up and down shifts hard and then flutters more but doesn't throw an engine code, but I checked it and showed p0325 ?? the bank one knock sensor, and p1133 or P1333, can't remember the code but air fuel code. I cleared them but didn't make a difference

putnam00

Put the updated valve cover and while I had it changed the spark plugs. I sprayed out the intake got it all together and now when it idles it surges, wheb I drive it shifts hard and surges. It had p0325, the knock sensor bank1 and I the other code was p1133 or p1333 air fuel code I rest it but still didn't help. Any ideas?

salimshah

Re-examine your work.

Check all hoses (air and vac).

Hard shift is related to non-smooth and around 700rpm idle.

Salim

putnam00

I'll tear into it again tonight check to see if I have any hoses that cracked on another note here's what the intake looked like inside.

putnam00

ok checked everything and did the leak test with parts cleaner and I do not have any leaks, and I hooked the grounds back up on the left side of the motor, tonight on my test drive it actually acted like it shifted into neutral then kick into gear. Could I have pulled a wire? or a sensor go bad? and I still have no engine light

putnam00

I think its funny I have no vacuum leaks or air leakes, but this started after I did changed the rear valve cover gasket and spark plugs I guess I'm going to take the upper intake off again and start checking for a pulled wire. Could cleaning the throttle body cause one of those sensors to screw up?

fastnoypi

did you clean your iacv valve in the process? if it is not closing properly after you reach operating temperature it may cause surging problems while the ecu is trying to compensate for the extra air while it is trying to adjust to the closed position.

putnam00

It's I sprayed parts cleaner into that item I bet I messed it up in the process, should I try cleaning it again or just get a new one?

fastnoypi

if indeed it is the iacv, i would attempt to remove and clean it. Remove the unit from the intake as a whole, not parts of it as shown in the DIY thread. You can test the flapper by applying a 12v+ source like the battery.

putnam00

Got the iac off cleaned and tested. The constant wire clicks but the flap doesn't stay the the other way does what it should and shutters well what I read is momentary

putnam00

Well put it back together and it still does erratic revving / fluttering before it shifts out of first to second didn't seem to do it shifting into 3rd, but I wasn't that operating temperature, and didn't go into overdrive till it was up to operating temperature. When I turned around it did it first to second second to 3rd and right before it went into overdrive. I tried it 2 more times on the highway with the same results, coming back home threw p0325 knock sensor code

fastnoypi

That sucks that the iacv did not prove to be the problem after all that R/R..but at least by your description its confirmed the iacv works.

Per the manual the p0325 is set when there is no knock sensor signal sent to the ecu between 2000-5600 rpm.
Causes are an open or short in the circuit, loose knock sensor or faulty ecu.

I'm not familiar with the location of the No. 1 sensor on the right bank, but is there a possibility that its wire got accidently pulled or pinched?

putnam00

So the iac is ok it even though it doesn't stay engaged on the one circuit it clicks and releases, I know the one is curcuit suppose to keep moving but isn't the flap suppose to hold on the other curcuit because it doesnt it clicks and releases

salimshah

Have you tried open loop ,,, disconnect the IACV plug and depending on flapper position, you may have to hold the gas pedal or it just might idle high .. this should help isolate the surging.

Other thing to check would be a vacuums leak or a TB sucking in air (may be worth checking again). Please check if the carb cleaner you use is safe for the O2 sensor. You can open loop O2 sensor too .. will kick a code but we are trying to figure out why the idle is hunting.

Live OBd2 can help

Salim

putnam00

It's now idling fine it just jumps before it shifts gears, when I bought it they said they rebuilt the transmission, but it seems like the torque converter is locking unlocking, would the knock sensor cause this problem? It's weird that this all started after I did the valve cover update. I guess I can check the injector connections to make sure tgey are connected, or the vvt oil solenoids what ever the it called since half the intake is so dirty I'm just at a total loss other than the higher oil usage it ran awesome. My scanner does some live data like 02s,tps, mas, and others