Engine and brake problems
09-06-15, 07:42 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Engine and brake problems
2001 AWD, has 210k km on it.
Engine
1. engine sounds like steam train when engine revs up in R or D, but not in N. Worst in reverse.
Is this a motor/tran mount issue?
2. When starting the car after resting for a while, a sharp squeak sound comes out for a second.
Action taken so far: Tightened the serpentine belt, I don't have a belt gauge and used the 90 degree method. Happens less frequent now.
Should I tighten it some more?
Brakes
- 90k km on front pads/rotors and 60k km on rear pads/rotor
- original suspensions
- front OEM pads + acdelco rotors
- rear akebono proact pads + raybestos rotors(changed at different times)
1. Pulsates when braking from 90km/h or higher. Steering wheel shakes side to side.
Action taken so far: Took apart front brakes, lubed up slider pins, cleaned off rust, brake pads down to 15%. Used garnet sandpaper and went over both rotors.
Issue remains, tried a couple 100km/h stops, the harder I push the pedal, the less pulsation I get.
I noticed at some point after braking down to near stop, and releasing the brakes that the car lurches for a bit.
Is this a stuck caliper piston symptom? The slider pins are free for sure since I cleaned and lubed them. The pads on the right side is more used up than left.
2. When braking hard, car veers off to the right.
Happens once in a while, maybe it's due to the crown of the road. Could this also indicate caliper problem?
3. Rear caliper slider pins stuck - fixed, but need new pads
Took it apart, noticed the outer pad is down to 5%(indicator is on the inner).
Lubed slider pins, wiped wheel clean from brake dust.
Measured thickness to be 10mm. This is first pads with this set of rear rotors.
Do you think I can still use the same rotors with a new set of pads? Could the frozen pins cause the rotor to overheat in the back and render them unusable?
Engine
1. engine sounds like steam train when engine revs up in R or D, but not in N. Worst in reverse.
Is this a motor/tran mount issue?
2. When starting the car after resting for a while, a sharp squeak sound comes out for a second.
Action taken so far: Tightened the serpentine belt, I don't have a belt gauge and used the 90 degree method. Happens less frequent now.
Should I tighten it some more?
Brakes
- 90k km on front pads/rotors and 60k km on rear pads/rotor
- original suspensions
- front OEM pads + acdelco rotors
- rear akebono proact pads + raybestos rotors(changed at different times)
1. Pulsates when braking from 90km/h or higher. Steering wheel shakes side to side.
Action taken so far: Took apart front brakes, lubed up slider pins, cleaned off rust, brake pads down to 15%. Used garnet sandpaper and went over both rotors.
Issue remains, tried a couple 100km/h stops, the harder I push the pedal, the less pulsation I get.
I noticed at some point after braking down to near stop, and releasing the brakes that the car lurches for a bit.
Is this a stuck caliper piston symptom? The slider pins are free for sure since I cleaned and lubed them. The pads on the right side is more used up than left.
2. When braking hard, car veers off to the right.
Happens once in a while, maybe it's due to the crown of the road. Could this also indicate caliper problem?
3. Rear caliper slider pins stuck - fixed, but need new pads
Took it apart, noticed the outer pad is down to 5%(indicator is on the inner).
Lubed slider pins, wiped wheel clean from brake dust.
Measured thickness to be 10mm. This is first pads with this set of rear rotors.
Do you think I can still use the same rotors with a new set of pads? Could the frozen pins cause the rotor to overheat in the back and render them unusable?
09-07-15, 05:55 AM
#2
Engine
1. Maybe just an exhaust leak?
2. Get a new OE belt tightened correctly.
Brakes
1. Your rotors are shot (and pads) could be warped or have deposits, but the cure is the same, new rotors.
2. Could be calipers, could be alignment, or something else? If you're not sure, I think I would just do the brake job and see how they work after that.
3. Do the front brakes first, if the pulsating is gone and the rear rotors look fine, reuse them with the same brand of pads.
1. Maybe just an exhaust leak?
2. Get a new OE belt tightened correctly.
Brakes
1. Your rotors are shot (and pads) could be warped or have deposits, but the cure is the same, new rotors.
2. Could be calipers, could be alignment, or something else? If you're not sure, I think I would just do the brake job and see how they work after that.
3. Do the front brakes first, if the pulsating is gone and the rear rotors look fine, reuse them with the same brand of pads.
09-07-15, 01:25 PM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Engine
1. Maybe just an exhaust leak?
2. Get a new OE belt tightened correctly.
Brakes
1. Your rotors are shot (and pads) could be warped or have deposits, but the cure is the same, new rotors.
2. Could be calipers, could be alignment, or something else? If you're not sure, I think I would just do the brake job and see how they work after that.
3. Do the front brakes first, if the pulsating is gone and the rear rotors look fine, reuse them with the same brand of pads.
1. Maybe just an exhaust leak?
2. Get a new OE belt tightened correctly.
Brakes
1. Your rotors are shot (and pads) could be warped or have deposits, but the cure is the same, new rotors.
2. Could be calipers, could be alignment, or something else? If you're not sure, I think I would just do the brake job and see how they work after that.
3. Do the front brakes first, if the pulsating is gone and the rear rotors look fine, reuse them with the same brand of pads.
1. Not sure if it's exhaust leak. I would've thought that the sound wouldn't change no matter where gear I am in.
2. Belt if bando branded installed by a shop about 2 years ago, 35k on it now. It wasn't making noise a year ago. Could the belt stretch a bit overtime?
Brakes
1. My first assumption was deposit too so while I was servicing the brake hardware, I took the rotors off and cleaned them up with garnet sandpaper. It didn't make a huge difference. I tried rebedding a bit on the highway, but also didn't make too much difference. Looks like new rotors(4-5 years old)
2. When I let go of steering wheel while driving, the car stays pretty straight minus the crown of the road. I was thinking if it's truly caliper, I would notice more difference.
I also used infrared thermometer and checked all rotors' temperature after a drive. Not much difference between left and right. Although I noticed, the rear rotors get hotter than front.
Is this because of EBD?
3. Good idea about doing the front only first. I'd have to buy pads for all 4 corners anyways, but rotors are expensive to buy and ship from US. My choice right now are centric premium rotors + bendix CT-3 pads.
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