Chocker

Hi,
I had some grinding noise coming from the front wheels. It sounded like brake noise. I noticed that the pads and the rotors were finished. I replaced them with OEM parts (NEW). The disks were seized on the hubs (both sides). I got them off. Cleaned everything up and regreased all the necessary parts. I did a test drive and there is still noise coming from both wheels. I verified the clearance for the caliper bracket to the rotor and it was ok on both sides. I looked all around the rotors and there were no obstructions. I checked both wheels for play concerning the bearings and the ball joints and they seemed to be solid. The steering is not affected and when turning there is no difference. The CV boots are clean and not ripped. There's no leaks anywhere from any joints. The noise seems to be constant with no change in increasing or decreasing speed. Any ideas would be of great help.

Thanks,
Mark

maxSteel

what does it sound like

Chocker

It sounds like a grinding noise. It's pretty loud now. I did some research and now I am pretty sure that it is the bearings. I am going to change them and possibly the ball joints at the same time since I'm there. It doesn't seem that complicated once you have the right tools such as the bearing removal and press kit. I was a little surprised to find that there is very little in terms of DIY for the front bearing replacement.

Mark

salimshah

Have you tried to see the play when you tug and push at 12 o clock and 6 o clock position .

I would verify the problem before following a strong suspicion. Alignment would be needed at the end.

Salim

tllee

check the dust shield, mine was making noise like grinding. I checked everything ,took out every brake parts and cleaned it like new. I spent 2 days and eventually find that damn shield cause all those noise. I just gave it a couple of slight knocks, all the noise disappeared....
If your wheel don't have any play(shake it up and down, pull it in and out), the chance of worn bearing and ball joint is very slim.
How I found out my dust shield is the culprit? Take rotor out and look the shield carefully to see if there is any shining spot(s) on it, that spot(s) is the point of touch! Then you can make your own adjustment.
It's only my experience, it may or may not apply to your case, just hope it can help you to avoid some unnecessary works.

maxSteel

It's odd that Mark reports the sound doesn't change with speed.

carguy07

X2 that would rule out brakes and wheel bearings.

Chocker

Hi,
I checked the shield and it was a little bent. I bent it back and the noise was less. I can't really say if it gets louder with speed for sure because I mainly only hear it with the windows open. As I said before that I had changed the rotors and pads to OEM parts. The noise was there prior to that and then after that as well. It's kind of a worn out brake sound with a whine. I saw that when I turn the sound changes. When I go in reverse, the sound is louder and at a higher pitch. I checked the wheels to see if there was any contact point and there is not. I turned the wheel when it was jacked up and there was no sounds. The shock had been replaced about two years ago and seems to be fine as well.

Thanks,
Mark

maxSteel

So some thing is scraping,
No signs of scraping inside the wheel.
No sound when the car is lifted and the tire drops down.
Different sound when you turn.
Is the tire rubbing anything?

carguy07

I had one of the splash shields on a back wheel scrapping after a brake job once (aftermarket rotors). It was just making a little chirping sound, not grinding. But not anywhere obvious like you would think on the outer edge. This was down by the hub. The only way to see it was to pull the rotor and even then the spot that was just barely touching was not real obvious. Just bent it in with a few smacks with a hammer and a chunk of wood. Might want to pull the rotor and look behind it just to be safe.

salimshah

One has to use all senses to narrow down the problem:

Hearing:
Twist your head to help pin point the source.

Sight:
Look for shiny surface. Scraping is really grinding.

Touch:
Feel the parts gently and you will be able to feel the vibration. At times touch can even dampen the vibration and it is a dead give away.

Ignore smell and taste

It was interesting to note the change in sound based on direction of rotation. Leading edge of the contact makes more sound than the trailing edge.-> hint shield rubbing the rotor.

Salim

Chocker

Hi.
well I was able to pinpoint the culprit. Since my wife doesn't drive, it's hard to try to hear it when I;m driving. She said it was coming from the front. I was able to have a friend drive slowly while I walked beside the car. It was in the rear end and it was a stuck slide on the caliper. I hammered the caliper off and cleaned the slide and tried to clean the caliper where the slide inserted. I then stuck a hell of a lot of synthetic brake grease in the tube and on the slide. It works great now. Does anyone know a good way to clear out the crap on the caliper hole where the slide goes into? I still will have to change my pads because the inside pad is pretty well finished because of the stuck caliper.

Mark

salimshah

At least the chase has ended.

When it comes to lubricant like grease, sparingly is the key word. Lubes are magnets for dirt and grime and that will cause things to bind.

Trouble free solution is to junk the old part and buy a new one or a rust free used one. I suggest that as most of the exposed parts have a finish to prevent rust. Once that is gone, the rust will keep coming back (all things return to their natural state ... iron comes from rock).

If you are determined to reuse, then the right thing is to use a parts cleaner but most of us just get a wire brush. For holes, the right part is called a reamer. I have used sand paper wrapped on drill bit/pencil/dowel etc. Power tool with a brass brush also works well.

Salim

fastnoypi

it sounds like you need a full rebuild on the rear caliper. Napa/autozone, etc... have rebuilt calipers in stock for less than $100 with your old caliper as a $25 core charge.

Otherwise, with a little effort you can rebuild it yourself if the piston bores have no problem. If it is rust that is blocking the caliper holes and developing elsewhere, the electrolysis method works well with a few household items.

Chocker

Thanks for the info. The cylinder is moving freely. It's really the one slide hole that has rust. I cleaned as well as I could for now. I will get a file and do a better job once I go back in there to change the pads which I am waiting for.

Mark