trapreo

Read my post about oil consumption. It could save you a lot of money. Welcome.

scaryshark

Thanks for the posts. I haven't had a chance to reseat the connector yet. I've had a couple of check engine lights but it's gone out by itself after the car sits for awhile. Moisture might also have something to do with it, as it doesn't seem to come on when it's dry. Reseating the connector ought to help.

It appears to not be using oil at this point. I haven't driven enough to say that definitively though. I'm just a bit over 139k miles at this point.

Do these all seem to oversteer a bit?

I love the car, even still. My wife laughs at me that now I'm spoiled. I am inclined to agree with her (last Fall I bought a 2009 BMW R1200GS motorcycle). Life is good.

John

scaryshark

I've been a slacker and have yet to touch the connector or really do anything with the vehicle. The check engine light has come on a couple of times and then gone back off. Some mornings there's a good puff of smoke when I start it, and other mornings not. It doesn't seem to be using any oil of late, and I think maybe it sat for awhile and just being driven regularly at a wide range of RPMs is helping. I look forward to seeing how it performs this winter when we've got some snow.

John

matts6887

Were you able to see what color the smoke was?(was it white or blue colored?)

scaryshark

Blue. No anti-freeze. Definitely smells like burning oil too, when I back up through it.

John

matts6887

It is possible you could be burning oil. Have you checked the oil level at all to see if its a bit low? If it is low that could be a indicator of burning oil in which case the valve cover swap might fix the issue as mentioned before despite what others may say. Ive been reading about the oil consumption issues and the fact that the rear valve cover swap has solved this issue for others.

scaryshark

If I ever have reason to get to the rear valve cover, then modification or swap is in order. As it is, it's not using as much oil as it was so I think I'll just live with it for now. Otherwise, it's a great vehicle that I enjoy driving.

John

scaryshark

Well, shoot. Drove the beast 2900 miles the week after Christmas (Indiana to Big Bend National Park and back) and burned about 1 quart every 150-200 miles. The tailpipe is black and almost wet. Recently had the exhaust system cleaned-up with a new flex joint and a couple of lengths of pipe welded-in where there was corrosion and leakage. Motor otherwise runs great but from outside the vehicle it is louder than sounds healthy (motor sounds, not exhaust sounds). Hrrrmmm.

John

salimshah

Before attempting to change to the newer style valve cover, I would suggest a compression test be done on all cylinders.

Salim

scaryshark

Yeah, it sounds like that's where the problem lies. I suppose I'll just use if for around town until it dies, adding oil as necessary.

John

fastnoypi

what's your thought process behind a compression test that would troubleshoot oil consumption?.. other than verifying part of cylinder health (without leakdown results).


OP..do you still have the P1130 cel code?

salimshah

Want to eliminate oil from the piston side coming up and then eliminating bad valves.

Oil up the PCV path has been attributed to high rpm for longer duration. And oil dripping out if exhaust ... and noise ... things are not looking rosy ... [cat may be toast soon]

Salim

fastnoypi

true a broken ring land and exposed oiling ring could be pushing oil. Pulling plugs from all cylinders should identify the dead cylinder, however the OP mentions it runs "great" .

Eliminating bad valves is much easier with a leakdown test to force air though the exhaust if a bad exhaust valve and air out the throttlebody side if an intake valve leak.

The OP mentioned earlier he had a P1130 cel code, if the o2 sensor is soaked with oil it could indicate the rear cylinders are taking in oil from the pcv system.

scaryshark

Ugh. I hadn't even thought about the catalytic converter. Ugh.

It does run great, at least as far as I can tell. No problems when I put my foot in it, smooth at stead speed and smooth idle.

It still throws the code, and if it's burning as much oil as it seems to be burning I can't imagine that's not what's causing it.

John

fastnoypi

If you have another daily driver i highly recommend the upgrade rear valve cover replacement or recondition your old one if expenses are a concern. I can imagine shop labor being expensive but it is very doable as a DIY with minimal tools.

Fwiw, the only temporary stop gap measure that worked to keep oil out of the intake was an oil catch can that i used to use when i had the oil consumption problem. But you still have to keep an eye on your oil level both in the engine and catch can.