RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

Strong battery, dim dome light, no power

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Old 06-15-15, 05:37 PM
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x24paul
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Default Strong battery, dim dome light, no power

My wife's rx300 has been running well, no problems. Today, we ran all over town, at 4 p.m. and 98 degrees the truck would not start. Battery is fully charged, even tried another one. No juice is flowing, the dome light is lit, but barely, nothing has power and it won't start.
Old 06-16-15, 04:58 AM
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4TehNguyen
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how do you know its fully charged, just because a battery has 12V on it and lights up lights doesnt mean it can crank a car. How old is the battery?
Old 06-16-15, 05:06 AM
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x24paul
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My son can out and we swapped batteries after we could not jump it. The one year old battery was then taken to AutoZone and tested. Pretty sure it's not the battery.
Old 06-16-15, 06:15 AM
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geko29
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how are the terminals on the battery cable? Make sure they're clean and tight. Also check where they attach to the cable. It sounds like you have a loose/weak connection, possibly to ground.

If you're handy with a multimeter, here's a couple of quick tests you could do:

In VDC mode: Red probe on the POSITIVE battery cable, Black probe on the engine block or an unpainted body part (bolt, etc). Should show > 14V
In Impedance/continuity mode: either probe on the NEGATIVE battery post on the battery, other probe on the engine block or unpainted body part. Should show very close to zero Ohms.

If you use the positive terminal for the second test, your meter will explode, so please be careful--re-cover the terminal before doing this one.
Old 06-16-15, 09:32 AM
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bitkahuna
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Originally Posted by x24paul
My son can out and we swapped batteries after we could not jump it. The one year old battery was then taken to AutoZone and tested. Pretty sure it's not the battery.
what year is your rx300 and it wouldn't start even after swapping out the battery?
edit: from profile see it's 2001

also: moving this to rx forum for more ideas, thx.
Old 06-16-15, 12:21 PM
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GSteg
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Originally Posted by geko29
In VDC mode: Red probe on the POSITIVE battery cable, Black probe on the engine block or an unpainted body part (bolt, etc). Should show > 14V
SInce the engine is not running, I doubt he'll see 14V. Maybe 12.5V with the battery resting. But yea, I would check cables and terminal first before anything else.
Old 06-16-15, 12:46 PM
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geko29
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Originally Posted by GSteg
SInce the engine is not running, I doubt he'll see 14V. Maybe 12.5V with the battery resting. But yea, I would check cables and terminal first before anything else.
You're absolutely right. It's been awhile since I've actually tested a battery for voltage, as opposed to an alternator (where you do want 14V). Anything between 12.1 and 12.8 with the engine off is usually indicative of a healthy battery.
Old 06-16-15, 04:52 PM
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x24paul
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Ok, just finished the tests. Ground is ok, losing power from positive side. Battery is at 12v. Red probe on battery, black on body, 6v.
Old 06-16-15, 06:32 PM
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x24paul
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Could it be the starter, is it possible the starter is in "load" position. Very weak lights, no power for anything but dim dome and door lights. Had this happen on Chevy truck once.
Old 06-16-15, 08:31 PM
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thomas1
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Could very well have a set of shorted starter contacts. However it would drain the battery down pretty quick. By the way car running the voltage should be 13.4 to 14.1 volts. The battery with engine off is 12.5 to 12.6volts.
You say the ground is good, so you read 0 ohms between the negative and engine block? I would unhook the starter positive lead and safely tape it off and then turn the ignition on to see if the lights are right in the car. If they are you have a bad starter. the auto store will test it for free also if you drag it down there.
Old 06-18-15, 02:43 PM
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x24paul
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It is the ignition switch, there is a short in the switch. Thank you all for the suggestions. I had the same problem in a 74 Impala, but it at least gave me a little advanced warning. These damn Lexus, they just go bad. Had a transmission just quit working when I stopped at a red light. $3400.00 later I am back on the road, other than that it's a great ride, only reason I am not getting rid of it.

Thanks again guys, I appreciate all the time and effort you guys put into helping, not just me, all us non mechanic types.
Old 08-15-15, 07:18 AM
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JAB
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Did you replace the ignition switch yourself, or pay someone to do it? If the former, any pointers on how to do; if the latter, how much you pay? Thanks.
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