artbuc

Or worse, and more likely, you will snap a bolt. Doesn't take much. My experience suggests tightening bolts almost never works. If it does work, it will be short term. If you decide to replace VC gaskets, spend a little extra dough and buy new OEM fasteners (they are designed to use once, like a crush washer) and follow the FSM exactly.

salimshah

I could get to all of them, with socket or wrench, but could not get roque wrench and socket on all.

Salim

fastnoypi

With the manifold off i was able to get to all bolts with my 1/4" torque wrench with 4 inch extension.

what size torque wrench were you using?

salimshah

I did not remove anything. I just retorqued to spec and estimated a few.

Salim

hsmac

how the heck did you reach all of them without removing anything? go from over or under the car?

hsmac

hey guys how should i press the spark plug tube seals all the way in? i've read conflicting information on that. also, the inner ring of the seals should go around the tube right and not just sit on top of the tube, meaning they will need to be manually expanded around the tube (or pressed in around the tube) and that work needs to be performed after replacing the valve cover?

salimshah

Both.

Salim

Derrick71

Fully install the seals into the VC before installing the VC.

Put them in from the inside with the VC off the car and on a workbench. Bend back one or both of the small metal tabs so you don't cut the seal. You can tap them in with a hammer and a large socket or work your way around them tapping with a FLAT punch of some sort. The back of a 1/4 inch deep socket works well as a punch. Just don't use something sharp like a screwdriver. It's OK if they start to go a little sideways. They'll straighten out as they seat.

When they're pressed into the VC, they'll automatically make a nice seal around the spark tubes as you install the VC.

leroyjnav

HI all, I need to replace both the front and rear VC gaskets, how much time do you estimate it will take - I am a intermediate level mechanic (working on my cars for years - on and off).

leroyjnav

I am going to change the coils and the spark plugs, someone mentioned that PCV valve, anything else while I have the top of the engine dismantled?

salimshah

So are most of us. One thing you learn is there is expected time and then one stubborn bolt or nut throws a monkey wrench in the works.

The problem with the rear is access. If you long arms .. a definite +, but if your fist/wrist is large a definite -.
I always keep a magnet on a telescoping wand (radio antenna), light, various adapters/flex couplings fro small nuts and heads. Undo the most difficult part first and try to keep the changes to a minimum [break down the tasks and complete one and test the vehicle]. You dont want to do too many changes and if at the end things dont run right, you have to check all the things you did.

I would estimate 3-4 hrs. [including the fight with the rubber grommet for pcv]

Salim

Dyslexi

I just replaced the rear valve cover gasket, ignition coil, spark plugs and spark plug tube gaskets on my 2001 rx300.
I got a lot of tips from reading posts from others and I wanted to share some tips that I've used to hopefully help others too.

- Lot of people seems to be having a hard time removing the rubber parts like PCV grommet and the spark plug tube gasket. For both, I found that using a heat gun to warm it up makes it a bit softer and easier to remove. For the spark plug tube gasket, make sure you bend one of the metal tabs using a long nose pliers and the old gasket can be pryed off using a screwdriver. When installing the new spark plug tube gaskets, I apply a light coat of motor oil and it will slide right in the valve cover. Bend the metal tabs back in position to hold the gasket.
Putting oil on the gasket and the lip of the spark plug tubes also helps re-installing the valve cover.
- That valve cover bolt near the firewall that is butted close to the power steering line is hell to remove and install. I ended up loosening up the bolt that hold the bracket. The bracket bolt can be accessed easily from under the car using a loong rachet extension. Once the bracket is loose you can move the power steering line a little bit so a ratchet can be used. HOWEVER, if you remove the bolt that holds the power steering line to the bracket, it is a PAIN to re-install back.. so pick your poison.
- I disconnected the O2 sensor connector so I can lift up the cables a bit. Just make sure you don't forget to plug back in any connectors

Almost all of us who went through this project will agree that engine design makes it difficult to reach fasteners cause some are in very tight space near the firewall, but with patience and the right tools it is not too bad.