mizak82

good call.. I got in touch with the parts dept for toyota and was quoted

Front mount: 96.00 x 2 = 192.00 (diff part number for rx/highlander, might not work)
bearings: 38.00 x 2 = 76.00
rear mount: 150.00 x 2 = 300.00

totaling 568.00

plus 420.00 for struts

988.00 in parts plus labor..

fastnoypi

As bufferdan pointed out you do not need the front bearings if you are purchasing the front mounts.
Saves you $38

mizak82

both guys at the parts dept (lexus and toyota) said i had to buy them separately... awesome if not..

actually should of added its 30 a piece for the front strut covers..

Baetke

My research (not guaranteed) shows the following Toyota part numbers are compatible with a 99 RX300.

48603-33021 Front RH Strut Mount
48609-33121 Front LH Strut Mount
90903-63014 Strut Bearings

Check eBayMotors, FCPImports, and ToyotaPartZone for pricing and compatability.

mizak82

Using those numbers I was able to find some on ebay..

OE front struts and bearings 175.00 shipped
dust covers for the front shocks 28.00 shipped
KYB strut set 418.00 shipped

now I just need the back mounts.. are they also considered:

Lexus Part Number: 48750-48010
SUPPORT ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, RH

Lexus Part Number: 48760-48010
SUPPORT ASSY REAR SUSPENSION, LH


if so i found then for 112.00 a piece plus shipping.. better than 205 from the lexus dealership by me and 150 from the toyota dealership..

sorry to be a PIA guys...

Baetke

Not at all. If you post a summary of the Lexus->Toyota part numbers for all of the parts you use when you're done it will be a great help to all the other DIY'ers on this forum in the future.

In fact, I tried to start a thread quite a while back where we could collect this kind of data. If you search for "RX to Highlander Cross Reference" you will find that thread and maybe you could add the data there.

mizak82

just an update... got my suspension done today...

drives way better.. just feels more solid, stable, handles a lot better, seems to accelerate slightly faster as well.. just feels like a new car.. pretty damn good for a 14 year old whip....

glad I did it.. replaced everything OE, all mounts, rubbers, kyb mr2's.. (only the front two shock bumpers were falling apart, reused the backs)

thanks for the help..

hayafalcon

Hi I, am a 1st Gen Highlander owner but frequently reference the Club Lexus site as there are so many similarities. See you are about to do a strut job. You can do this all yourself. I did in my own driveway with common hand tools. Borrow a Macpherson strut spring compressor from Auto Zone. You'll need to leave deposit but it is refunded at return of the tool. I made a table of parts I used. Attached is the table.

FYI-The first big thing is to be aware of is the strut links may be a pain to remove if the threads/nuts are rusty. The hex socket at the end of the stud will strip out. You can grip onto the stud at the back side with a good pair of vice grips but you may end up destroying the grease boot. I ended up going back and cutting the studs with a saws-all at the sway bar end. I then replaced all four links.

Second: Be sure to mark the front struts before you remove them from the car. Make a line at the outboard edge so that you can have a model to properly index the spring, the upper spring seat, and the the upper bearing plate on the new strut when you go to assemble those components. Also make note of the bearing to be sure you assemble the new one right side up.

Third: I used my Black and Decker Workmate to clamp the strut upright and work on it. That worked pretty good in the driveway. Also, the D opening in the upper spring mount didn't "catch" the strut rod detent initially. So I used a protective rubber strip and channel locks to hold the upper end of the strut rod while I threaded the top nut on. After a few turns the D lined up and strut rod popped into it. Then you can hold the mount and finish torquing the nut down the rest of the way.

My biggest tip: AeroKroil. My dad swore by the stuff.....I have to agree. Works 10 times better than any other penatrant oil.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

BTW- I got all the strut components via Amazon. The sway bar rubbers and links via eBay.


Good luck. Let me know how it goes, Kent.




Description
KYB Part No


Comment
Cost w/shipping









Boot w/stop
SB 102



$27.40


Spring Seat, Upper
SM 5485


w/rubber isolator
$35.98


Suspension Mtg. Kit
SM 5423


w/bearing
$116.48


Strut Left
334400


Excel-G
$101.98


Strut Right
334399


Excel-G
$78.49









Suspension Mtg. Kit
SM 5175


Evan-Fisher pt. no.
EVA15172048285
$54.68


Strut Left
334264


Excel-G
$42.55


Strut Right
334263


Excel-G
$42.55


Spring Isolator
SM 5469



$31.74




Total
$531.85


*Original design used 1-piece boot and seat. New design usesseparate boot and spring seat, KYB part numbers SB 102 and SM 5485.



Description
Part No


Comment


Sway bar bushings
101 5573
Front
Beck Arnley


Sway bar bushings
101 5574
Rear
Beck Arnley
Toyota saysbushings to be lubricated with non-petroleum based grease.



Description
Part No


Comment


Sway bar links
SK 90344
Front
MAS Ind.


Sway bar links
SK 90345
Rear
MAS Ind.



Did not buy
KYB Part No




Frt. spring lower rubber isolators
Not available from KYB
Front
Reused old ones


Rear bump stops

Rear
Reused old ones

September 2013

hayafalcon

I see the table did not translate well for the Lexus site. (It did not on the Toyota Nation site either.) If you would like a copy emailed to you let me know. Regards, Kent.

fastnoypi

I have used Kroil in the past. It is a very good penetrant, but pricey and not easily found everywhere off the shelf IMO.

a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone has been tested to be more effective and i have used it with very good results. It would be convenient if you have an air compressor to use a refillable aerosol can..but i just use a thumb driven oil can to deliver it.

So keep your used ATF when draining your transmission


"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

hayafalcon

Cool info. Thanks.

BTW- yes Kroil is hard to find. I buy it via Kano's website. Also, somewhere along the line Kroil was reformulated. Years ago, probably in response to some environmental pressure regarding it's original formula or something. Anyway, it's now not quite as good as the old stuff. It's still pretty good though.
The routine: Learned from Dad.....spray the stuck nut-bolt, whatever. Tap on it smartly with a hammer. Go have a cigarette. (wait 20 min.) Tap again. Have at it wth a good box-end wrench or impact gun.
I still use that same routine today. 'cept I don't smoke....
Thanks again, Haya.....

2nd BTW- my son helped me with the strut job. As my appreciation, I bought him....you guessed it.......a can of Kroil of his own. he he.

hypervish

Thanks for those stats.

I've always heard of ATF/Acetone Mix but never tried it, but after seeing those numbers there's no way I won't be using it in the future. haha

fastnoypi

Straight ATF works too but depending on the thread pitch it may be too thick. They sell gallons and pints of acetone at Lowes/Home Depot relatively cheap for mixing.

or you can steal your gfs or wife's nail polish remover if you are in a pinch

daltongd

I did mine on a 2001 about 2 months ago. My car had 272K miles on it and had the original struts. On my installation I did not need new bearings or any of that stuff, just struts and boots. The boots attached to my original insulators were in bad shape so I just trim the boot from the insulator and used the insulator all by itself with a boot from KYB. It will save you some money. Sounds like you already did your repair so this is just for any one reading and thinking about doing it.

hayafalcon

When I was rounding up parts for the job I was not sure whether the rubber parts and bearings would be needed but I'm glad I had them on hand. The upper mounting plate was a rusted mess and the bearings were bad too. The rubber isolators were shot, cracked, and lifeless. Thus is the fate of a vehicle in winter road-salt country. Rust. By far the worst part of the job was getting the retaining nuts free from the stablizer links. Whoever designed that
ridiculous hex-socket end on the studs should be kicked in the......
I ended up cutting off the links and replacing with aftermarket parts. The new links have wrench flats on the opposite end of the stud and grease fittings. A much better design. I spent well over half the entire effort just removing the links. Jeez.