Comity

Thanks tllee.....The link was very informative. I was able to confirm that my RX300 does have the redesigned rear valve cover, so that is not the problem. I will try with replacing the PCV valve since it is original and go from there. I do get some smoke on start-up, so valve seals are another possibility. Thanks again for your help.

tllee

You're welcome. I wish you can solve your problem but from my best knowledge that 2002 RX300 don't have the new version valve cover(maybe I'm wrong). I only see the RX330 have new one on it.
PCV valve is the simplest and cheapest possible answer.
I highly doubt that valve seals are the culprit, as you stated 1-1.5 qt/1000 miles; you should see a lot of smoke out from your pipe at any moment. You should try my second approach(oil catch can)if changing PCV valve is no use. That will prove the excess blow-by is suck to your intake manifold, then you can sure the valve covers is the problem. Good luck!

tllee

I attached the pictures I borrow from another thread which I mark the different "crest" of new and old.
Hope it clear enough to help you to ID the version of valve cover.

Comity

Thanks for clearing this up tllee. I do now think I have the old design valve cover with a metal PCV valve. I see what you mean about the crest extending out to the edge of the cover. I was looking at the crest of where the PCV valve screws in, but you are talking about the surface below that. I took a pic of my cover so you confirm that it looks like the old version.




It does not look like the surface below the PCV valve crest extends all the way out to the edge, which is what I think you are telling me indicates the old design. Thanks again for your help.

jnovak01

I have an 01 with 130K on it and always changed the oil myself. I was always under the impression that oil sludge would not happen to me. I took the front cover off to see the condition it was in. It looked like yours - very clean - so I thought I was good.

Then oil started to disappear...rapidly. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif I took the plunge and did the valve cover change.

Actually you don't have to buy the covers - I just disassembled the covers and cleaned them. Reassembled with self tapping screws with loctite. $100 bucks later with new plugs/PVC/Cleaned the intake/new gaskets - the car runs great! I have no regrets at all. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif

Hope this helps - Just sharing my experiences - good luck.

Comity

Thanks jnovack01for the tip. That would be great if a clean did the trick.....it looks like you are showing me the front valve cover cleaning. Did you also give the rear valve cover the same treatment?

tllee

Yes, you do have old version. I researched the cleaning method too, it require a lot of labor and no guaranty it will work(read the discussions from a lot of different forums). The problem is the "felt" inside the baffle, you'll need to remove the baffle(which is riveted on the valve cover)to get rid of it, also need to thread the holes in order to screw back the baffle plate(make sure the screw won't loosen and fall off, that will result a disaster). Remember the valve cover is made of aluminum alloy, it's not that hard, you'll have to very careful when use self-taping screws.
jnovak01 has his success. I believe that he is very handy and have a lot of tools, also need a lot of time for cleaning. A valve cover cost you around $200, if cleaning it still need to spend $100, I prefer change it.
BTW, take off the rear cover is the pain in the a**, I hope that I never need to do it again. I changed some timing belts and water pumps, some axles and staked u-joints, they are easier than this damn cover. It's not technically difficult, it's time-consuming and odd-positioning difficult.

TOYOTA was force this engine inside a shorter bay(width is enough) of RX300 , they never consider the consequence, they probably think that can make more profit out of customer for their dealers. Especially for spark plugs change!!

jnovak01

I did both valve covers though I did not have to do the front one actually. The main culprit for this whole problem is the rear cover has a baffle in it that allows oil to cake up on the exit holes of the baffle. The baffle itself has this spongy type coating on it. I don't know why it has this coating but it is necessary for some reason.
The baffle is held in place by aluminum rivets press fit into a shallow hole. I drilled them out carefully and then cleaned everything in boiling water and easy off over cleaner.

Be careful if you use this technique in that easy off is not meant for Aluminum. It worked ok for me.
I think the one pic after cleaning is the rear cover.

This was my daughters car as I bought a 2011 RX 3rd gen. Whole project took me a weekend but could be done in one day. I kinda took my time as this car is not my main mode of transportation.

jnovak01

Comity is right. The rear cover is a pain, and I do have tools, though you don't need a full set of pro tools to do this job. There is one tool you will need and that is a 8.4" Long Double Ended 14mm Rotary Hexagonal Socket Open End Combination Wrench - They are available on Amazon. You will also need a good set of 3/8 drive sockets. The rear cover is not for the faint of heart for sure. However it can be done. I watched a YouTube video for a VVT component and it showed me how difficult the job was.

This was not my favorite thing to do on a weekend, but looking back it went better than I thought it could. The first time you do it will be difficult and you will most likely never need to do it again. Too bad as if I had to do it again I could definitely do it in one day.

good luck.

Comity

I appreciate your input jnovak01 and tllee. I have hope now that I can do this job over a weekend in my home garage. I have collected a fair number of tools over the years including the wrench that you mentioned jnovak01. I also understand what a pain it is going to be given the engine's position and lack of room to work. I remember the good old days of British cars with all kinds of room in the engine compartment..... but then I did have to spend a lot more time in the engine compartment doing repairs! I would also just replace the rear cover if I am going to go to the trouble to do this job myself, along with the spark plugs since the car has 140,000 mi.

Thanks again for helping me determine which cover I had and for all of your advice. I will let you know how it goes after I order all the parts and do the job. I guess I did have one more question, did either of you replace the intake manifold gasket when you did this job?

tllee

I did replace all the gaskets and spark plugs. If your car is 140K miles, I suggest that you change it.
My plenum gaskets look and feel OK, the valve cover gasket feel harden. Since this job is painful, why not change it while you're on it? You'll never need to come back for it unless you'll keep it for another 100K miles. If you're getting a new valve cover, it come with new seals of spark plug holes. Otherwise, you'll need to get that seals and replace it too. Trust me, compare to the intensive labor on this job, get it done at one shot.

jnovak01

Someone asked if I would repost some of my pictures so here goes. PM me if you want more pics.

I cleaned both of my covers as I just did not want to spend $400 on new covers. I also have included a link to a video that helped me understand what I was getting into. In the end it was not as bad as I thought it would be. And I enjoy saving for my children's inheritance.

To clean the covers you have to disassemble them by drilling out the rivets of the baffle.
1. Use a center punch to mark the top of the rivet. A number 1 phillips screwdriver is fine as the rivets are aluminum.
2. The rivets are aluminum so start the hole with a 2 mm drill and go down only 2-3 mm. Mark your drill with tape so you don't go too far out the other side of the cover.
3. You will have to move up to a 5 or 6 mm drill if I remember to drill off the head of the rivet to get the baffle off only. It pops off actually. Do Not drill out the Body of the Rivet - it isn't necessary.
4. There are 15 or so rivets and it will go faster than you think. Just take your time on the first 2 or 3 till you get the hang of it.
5. Clean the cover and baffle together with oven cleaner. I used boiling water with oven cleaner and it came out great.
6. Use no 8 or 10 self tapping sheet metal screws - I think they were 1/2" long with thread locker.
7. Drill out the body of the rivet to allow the self tappers to bite into the hole. Again mark your drill with tape so you don't go out the top of the cover. I went too far on one and it is not a big deal as the thread locker makes a good seal. Just don't do it on every one ok?
7. Changed the bypass hose/plugs/seals of the covers/PCV valve/gaskets for the covers/gaskets to intake manifold (All RockAuto Stuff)

No Runs, No Drips, No Errors.
Let me know if I can help anyone. This forum has been great and it is nice to be able to give back a little.


Good Luck

cbrf23

Just to follow up on this issue, I decided to run a can of seafoam through the engine for the hell of it.
After a couple hundred miles, the oil burning has reduced quite drastically. I was actually shocked at how much of a difference it's made. I've gone probably close to 1,000 miles now without having to add any oil - coming from needing to add a quart every 500 or so! And I've noticed about a 2-3mpg increase, which is not insignificant.

I've never been a big fan of additives like these as I've always thought of them as snake oil, but I'm pleasantly surprised in this case. Very surprised.

Anyways, that's my update for now.

snorander

So did you use a full can of seafoam? How long did you leave it in there for before you changed the oil? Going to give this a try.

Thanks,

Steve

Comity

Okay, I finally replaced the rear valve cover last weekend, along with the plugs, front valve cover gasket, plenum and throttle body gaskets, dog bone, etc....basically everything I could do while I was in there. Like most of you said, I probably won't be doing that job again! It's back together with no new leaks and running beautifully, so I will let you know if this solved the oil consumption issue after I have driven it a while. Thanks for your advice on this job....much appreciated.