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Removing Rear Valve Cover On 2000 Lexus RX300

Old 12-15-14, 10:10 AM
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appsdba
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Default Removing Rear Valve Cover On 2000 Lexus RX300

Hello Everyone,

I watched the YouTube video on removing the valve covers. I removed the front cover as I had a bad oil leak. After replacing the valve cover gasket & spark plug tube rings three weeks ago, there is not one hint of moisture anywhere in that area. But, I have the following questions for all of you just in case I need to replace the gasket in the rear valve cover:

1.) Have any of you removed the rear valve cover and did you find it very complicated?
2.) Did you have to remove other components surrounding that area (such as the cruise control device & harness and other items as shown in the video)? I know we have to remote the air filter box, throttle body, plenum & fuel injector rail in the rear, etc. but I wanted to know if there was more that was necessary to remove in order to get to that rear cover.

As you can see, I don't want to remove any more than necessary. Obviously, the tech in the YouTube video is a trained Toyota tech who made the task seem so easy.

Thanks in advance for your input.
Old 12-15-14, 10:19 AM
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salimshah
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Before folks go and start replacing the valve cover gasket, they should attempt to retorque the bolts down (to proper spec) evenly (criss cross pattern inside to out). @100k miles.

I am sure there are cases where one needs to replace the gasket, but I highly recommend a simple fix first.

Salim
Old 12-15-14, 09:04 PM
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appsdba
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Before folks go and start replacing the valve cover gasket, they should attempt to retorque the bolts down (to proper spec) evenly (criss cross pattern inside to out). @100k miles.

I am sure there are cases where one needs to replace the gasket, but I highly recommend a simple fix first.

Salim
Thank you, Salim. I will do that first.
Old 12-16-14, 04:59 AM
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JAB
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I did this last summer and would never do it again. I removed EVERYTHING - air box, throttle body, complete wiper assembly and cowl tray, etc. The absolute hardest bolt to remove was the rear on the passenger side. I later discovered that it is easily accessed from below but only if the car is on a lift. And, once the job was done I discovered the cam seal was causing more of a leak than the valve cover gasket.
Old 12-16-14, 05:38 AM
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kalali
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Before folks go and start replacing the valve cover gasket, they should attempt to retorque the bolts down (to proper spec) evenly (criss cross pattern inside to out). @100k miles.

I am sure there are cases where one needs to replace the gasket, but I highly recommend a simple fix first.

Salim
What is the correct torque value for these bolts?
Old 12-16-14, 10:08 PM
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salimshah
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Originally Posted by kalali
What is the correct torque value for these bolts?
69 in-lb

Salim
Old 12-17-14, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by JAB
I did this last summer and would never do it again. I removed EVERYTHING - air box, throttle body, complete wiper assembly and cowl tray, etc. The absolute hardest bolt to remove was the rear on the passenger side. I later discovered that it is easily accessed from below but only if the car is on a lift. And, once the job was done I discovered the cam seal was causing more of a leak than the valve cover gasket.
Ouch!!! So,what did you do about the cam seal leak?
Old 12-17-14, 03:59 AM
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Had it replaced at my next timing belt service, which was soon thereafter.
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