Venza Rim & ATE Rotor - Hits the caliper
#1
Venza Rim & ATE Rotor - Hits the caliper
Hi,
RX300 1999 AWD.
I have the original wheel, with tire 235-70R16 of already 60K miles, and manage to buy a venza rims at craiglist...knowingly success story of this venza rims fits at RX300...
1. Front. upon installation of Venza rim (20") the caliper hit the rims...
I no longer have the original rotor. I replaced it last year with ATE CW28707. I took some measurement maybe this is causing the problem which is slightly different from the original stock rotor.
Stud coming out is 28/32 inch.
Thickness (one that caliper brakes) 1 and 2/32" or 28mm.
There is another 8/32 + 20/32 ".
Any suggestion of spacer available ?
Replace with OEM rotor ? Any link that shows OEM rotor measurement. (I want to confirm as it maybe the rim is not really fitting regardless if OEM rotor).
2. Rear. When installed is almost no clearance (maybe 1mm) with already used tire (245-50R20 - tire still has 8/32" thickness thread). I will maybe change next time to 235-50R20.
-Mike
RX300 1999 AWD.
I have the original wheel, with tire 235-70R16 of already 60K miles, and manage to buy a venza rims at craiglist...knowingly success story of this venza rims fits at RX300...
1. Front. upon installation of Venza rim (20") the caliper hit the rims...
I no longer have the original rotor. I replaced it last year with ATE CW28707. I took some measurement maybe this is causing the problem which is slightly different from the original stock rotor.
Stud coming out is 28/32 inch.
Thickness (one that caliper brakes) 1 and 2/32" or 28mm.
There is another 8/32 + 20/32 ".
Any suggestion of spacer available ?
Replace with OEM rotor ? Any link that shows OEM rotor measurement. (I want to confirm as it maybe the rim is not really fitting regardless if OEM rotor).
2. Rear. When installed is almost no clearance (maybe 1mm) with already used tire (245-50R20 - tire still has 8/32" thickness thread). I will maybe change next time to 235-50R20.
-Mike
Last edited by mroxas; 06-27-14 at 01:06 PM.
#2
#3
Moderator
Best way I can explain is that rotor size can interfere with the caliper.
The caliper can interfere with the rim.
Rim and tire can interfere with the wheel well (bounce and turn).
What is often time overlooked is that the caliper slides side to side over time as the pads wear down. Remember the sliding pins and rubber boot.
Assuming your rotor has the right dia (if it was larger you would be scraping the caliper), but it is thicker than OEM and you have unworn pads. Then your caliper is going to stick out and can touch the rim. As the pads get worn down the caliper starts sliding towards the engine.
Salim
The caliper can interfere with the rim.
Rim and tire can interfere with the wheel well (bounce and turn).
What is often time overlooked is that the caliper slides side to side over time as the pads wear down. Remember the sliding pins and rubber boot.
Assuming your rotor has the right dia (if it was larger you would be scraping the caliper), but it is thicker than OEM and you have unworn pads. Then your caliper is going to stick out and can touch the rim. As the pads get worn down the caliper starts sliding towards the engine.
Salim
#4
you can get wheel spacers at almost any autoparts store. They are essentially a drilled out plate. You need them to fit the 5x114.3 5 lug pattern.
Most manufacturers do not recommend them on SUV's because they assume you are not going to replace and use extended studs and lugs. If you use spacers with the stock studs, you are fastening with less threads when using the stock lugs. Use them at your own risk and best judgement.
There are adapters available too that will give you the additional clearance that use the stock studs to fasten the adapter to the hub while having additional studs to fasten your wheel.
You can check on ebay for these...they run 50-$70.
Most manufacturers do not recommend them on SUV's because they assume you are not going to replace and use extended studs and lugs. If you use spacers with the stock studs, you are fastening with less threads when using the stock lugs. Use them at your own risk and best judgement.
There are adapters available too that will give you the additional clearance that use the stock studs to fasten the adapter to the hub while having additional studs to fasten your wheel.
You can check on ebay for these...they run 50-$70.
Last edited by fastnoypi; 06-27-14 at 06:23 AM.
#5
Thanks for the feedback RX300CE, Salim, and fastnoypi.
Front Wheel. After further inspection it is only the braket that is grinding near the center of the rim. The caliper have good clearance.
OEM rotor will not solve the problem. I bought new from the lexus dealer and upon installation did not help. It has the same measurement to the ATE rotor...
I found at ebay a centric hub wheel spacer (3mm | 5x114.3 60.1mm) but will not deliver until Wednesday. Most on the store neaby is 1/4inch, 9/16...
I end up milling down the bracket to get more spacing... ($60 Dewalt grinder did the job...)
Picture is with wheel and rotor fully inserted inward. I think at least I have 2mm clearance for now.
Back Wheel. I forgot earlier to mention that the strut I am using is KYB.
When I bought the rim, it comes with almost new tire, thread is 8/32" thick. New tire of the same model comes with 10/32" thickness. New tire will probably have difficulty getting in. So next time I will go per advice by RX300CE of using 245-45R20 tire.
So far drives good. full left or full right no problem. Smooth ride on local and highway...
I will buy and keep the 3mm centric hub wheel spacer (~$20+ for two)... and use when the rotor worn down...
-Mike.
Front Wheel. After further inspection it is only the braket that is grinding near the center of the rim. The caliper have good clearance.
OEM rotor will not solve the problem. I bought new from the lexus dealer and upon installation did not help. It has the same measurement to the ATE rotor...
I found at ebay a centric hub wheel spacer (3mm | 5x114.3 60.1mm) but will not deliver until Wednesday. Most on the store neaby is 1/4inch, 9/16...
I end up milling down the bracket to get more spacing... ($60 Dewalt grinder did the job...)
Picture is with wheel and rotor fully inserted inward. I think at least I have 2mm clearance for now.
Back Wheel. I forgot earlier to mention that the strut I am using is KYB.
When I bought the rim, it comes with almost new tire, thread is 8/32" thick. New tire of the same model comes with 10/32" thickness. New tire will probably have difficulty getting in. So next time I will go per advice by RX300CE of using 245-45R20 tire.
So far drives good. full left or full right no problem. Smooth ride on local and highway...
I will buy and keep the 3mm centric hub wheel spacer (~$20+ for two)... and use when the rotor worn down...
-Mike.
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#8
(I just forgot to update this thread long time ago...)
The steering wheel vibrate at > 70MPH with the centric hub wheel spacer. (The 3mm centric hub is squeeze between rotor and wheel). I just mill down little more the bracket that is holding the caliper, and that works for me.
-Mike
The steering wheel vibrate at > 70MPH with the centric hub wheel spacer. (The 3mm centric hub is squeeze between rotor and wheel). I just mill down little more the bracket that is holding the caliper, and that works for me.
-Mike
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