99 RX won't shift into park - can't start --Help
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99 RX won't shift into park - can't start --Help
99 RX won't shift into park - can't start -- Help!!
Problem started by shifter not engaging into D position and D light on dash not lighting although all others lit fine when shifter was in their positions. Had to put shifter in 2 then slide up to D to get in D-drive position. Now cannot get into P position to start car - it clicks but it's not really in P because car can move. So now it's not starting because can't get in P. I can move shifter by pressing auto lock release button -- but I don't think it's really in P-park anyway since wheels move freely. Brake lights work fine. Drives and shifts fine - when I can start it. It seems like a progressive mechanical problem -- any ideas?
Battery is charged
visually checked fuses under hood - all okay; the D - drive light not lighting on dash bothers me though??
Tried starting in neutral with no success
I'm new to this forum - so I hope someone can guide me to a cause or solution.
Thank You!
Problem started by shifter not engaging into D position and D light on dash not lighting although all others lit fine when shifter was in their positions. Had to put shifter in 2 then slide up to D to get in D-drive position. Now cannot get into P position to start car - it clicks but it's not really in P because car can move. So now it's not starting because can't get in P. I can move shifter by pressing auto lock release button -- but I don't think it's really in P-park anyway since wheels move freely. Brake lights work fine. Drives and shifts fine - when I can start it. It seems like a progressive mechanical problem -- any ideas?
Battery is charged
visually checked fuses under hood - all okay; the D - drive light not lighting on dash bothers me though??
Tried starting in neutral with no success
I'm new to this forum - so I hope someone can guide me to a cause or solution.
Thank You!
#3
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Well, first of all, welcome to the forum. Loads of great information here. Searching is always the best option, but feel free to ask questions.
The "D" lamp not illuminating is a common occurrence. The bulb burns out and no longer lights up the D on the cluster.
The gear selector not engaging Park is something I have not experienced.
Salim.... perhaps you or Hypervish has an answer?
I'm thinking cable problem???
The "D" lamp not illuminating is a common occurrence. The bulb burns out and no longer lights up the D on the cluster.
The gear selector not engaging Park is something I have not experienced.
Salim.... perhaps you or Hypervish has an answer?
I'm thinking cable problem???
#5
The gear indicator repeater bulb may be a separate issue as it is a common failure point. But if it does light after you fiddle with the selector a bit and it agrees with the indicator on the selector then probably related.
I would chock the wheels and get under it looking at the front of the transmission where the shift linkage is. Then have someone cycle through the gears engine off of course and see if there is any slop. I would wager the shift linkage is loose or damaged at either the gear selector under the center bottom of the dash or at the transmission.
I would chock the wheels and get under it looking at the front of the transmission where the shift linkage is. Then have someone cycle through the gears engine off of course and see if there is any slop. I would wager the shift linkage is loose or damaged at either the gear selector under the center bottom of the dash or at the transmission.
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I cannot start it in neutral. Shifter feels very loose once out of P position so it does seem like it's mechanical -- linkage, solenoid. Either way it will be towed to mechanic in a few hours.
Thank you very much for your responses. This is a great forum.
Thank you very much for your responses. This is a great forum.
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#8
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I hope by now the problem is in good hands.
Auto trans has linkages and sensors [other than the engine to output shaft power transfer].
Linkages are from the shift lever to the transmission housing ... some part visible after you remove the gear shift console and some from below. I suspect the connection that is visible from below is loose as your shifter lever feels abnormal.
The interlocks are for safety ..
Brakes pedal must be pressed to release shifter from P .. this is controlled electronically ... when you press the brake the brake lights light up and the same electrical signal is used to release the lock on the shifter lever.
You need to turn ignition On to move the Gear lever out of park (in addition to brake)
You must be in Park or Neutral to engage starter.
Salim
Auto trans has linkages and sensors [other than the engine to output shaft power transfer].
Linkages are from the shift lever to the transmission housing ... some part visible after you remove the gear shift console and some from below. I suspect the connection that is visible from below is loose as your shifter lever feels abnormal.
The interlocks are for safety ..
Brakes pedal must be pressed to release shifter from P .. this is controlled electronically ... when you press the brake the brake lights light up and the same electrical signal is used to release the lock on the shifter lever.
You need to turn ignition On to move the Gear lever out of park (in addition to brake)
You must be in Park or Neutral to engage starter.
Salim
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Thank you all for your help. It was the in the linkage - the cable (in the linkage) was almost completely broken, it is a standed cable inside black sheathing. I saw the assembly on Sewell parts for $495ish, $750 parts and labor to fix. I can honestly say this has been one of the best cars I ever purchased. It will go another 100K miles - Sadly, I had to sell it; mechanic will fix and sell and keep or make a few hundred bucks. I sold it because my wife drives it - at this age and mileage she doesn't need the inevitable issues. Once again, a great car for 15 years! I also own a 95 GS 300 180'K miles!
Thank you all!
Thank you all!
#10
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Thank you all for your help. It was the in the linkage - the cable (in the linkage) was almost completely broken, it is a standed cable inside black sheathing. I saw the assembly on Sewell parts for $495ish, $750 parts and labor to fix. I can honestly say this has been one of the best cars I ever purchased. It will go another 100K miles - Sadly, I had to sell it; mechanic will fix and sell and keep or make a few hundred bucks. I sold it because my wife drives it - at this age and mileage she doesn't need the inevitable issues. Once again, a great car for 15 years! I also own a 95 GS 300 180'K miles!
Thank you all!
Thank you all!
Drop in once a while and update us on the alternative you chose and how it compares with the aging RX first gen.
Salim
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