Rear Door Lock Cable Severed - Serious Problems!
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Rear Door Lock Cable Severed - Serious Problems!
Hi! I'm new here, but our family now owns 2 Lexus vehicles, so I thought it high time to join. Plus, I've got an issue I hope you can help with!
I bought my Pearl 1999 RX300 last year. It only has 105,000 miles and it drives great. However, the right rear door lock stopped working completely about 2 months ago. It stuck in "locked" position and would not unlock: not by remote, or by switch, or manually. The manual lock just flails hopelessly, obviously detached from whatever cable it was supposed to be hooked to. JUST TODAY the remote unlock miraculously worked. Of course, then it would not lock back. So I was forced to finally take the door panel off. What I discovered was simultaneously stupefying and horrifying.
I have attached pictures which will hopefully tell the story, because I'm not exactly sure what's going on. Obviously this was worked on before I bought it, since half of the plastic insulation is cut away. I don't know which parts are original, but I THINK the manual lock cable (the top thin cable, previously sheathed in black rubber but apparently not anymore!) snapped (how, I have no idea!) and a repairman engineered a way around having to replace it entirely by clamping both broken ends into that "brass tri-screw bracket" there in the middle. Well, the end closest to the interior handle has snapped again, this time away from the "brass tri-screw bracket" so that it won't push the metal rod. (Also, the grey plastic sleeve that's supposed to anchor to the interior handle mount is broken free of the super glue job done by whoever repaired this last). The brass rod & mechanical lock (the green gun-looking thing nearer the exterior handle) seem to work, but obviously the cable that would attach it to the interior manual lock is severed.
I honestly don't know how the auto/remote door locks have been working at all, even intermittently, but they do. VERY intermittently; so rare that I don't dare put the door panel back on until I get this resolved, because the only way to ensure the door is locked is to do it manually via the brass rod. Is this an actuator issue? Which part is the actuator?
I have no idea how this door lock / cable has become such a mangled mutant mess. I shudder at having to try and replace that entire severed cable, but that may be the only way. I just don't know where it leads, how to get in there between the steel panels, or how/where to attach it. Help if you can! I'm just looking for the most affordable yet durable solution. Thanks for your generous time and advice.
I bought my Pearl 1999 RX300 last year. It only has 105,000 miles and it drives great. However, the right rear door lock stopped working completely about 2 months ago. It stuck in "locked" position and would not unlock: not by remote, or by switch, or manually. The manual lock just flails hopelessly, obviously detached from whatever cable it was supposed to be hooked to. JUST TODAY the remote unlock miraculously worked. Of course, then it would not lock back. So I was forced to finally take the door panel off. What I discovered was simultaneously stupefying and horrifying.
I have attached pictures which will hopefully tell the story, because I'm not exactly sure what's going on. Obviously this was worked on before I bought it, since half of the plastic insulation is cut away. I don't know which parts are original, but I THINK the manual lock cable (the top thin cable, previously sheathed in black rubber but apparently not anymore!) snapped (how, I have no idea!) and a repairman engineered a way around having to replace it entirely by clamping both broken ends into that "brass tri-screw bracket" there in the middle. Well, the end closest to the interior handle has snapped again, this time away from the "brass tri-screw bracket" so that it won't push the metal rod. (Also, the grey plastic sleeve that's supposed to anchor to the interior handle mount is broken free of the super glue job done by whoever repaired this last). The brass rod & mechanical lock (the green gun-looking thing nearer the exterior handle) seem to work, but obviously the cable that would attach it to the interior manual lock is severed.
I honestly don't know how the auto/remote door locks have been working at all, even intermittently, but they do. VERY intermittently; so rare that I don't dare put the door panel back on until I get this resolved, because the only way to ensure the door is locked is to do it manually via the brass rod. Is this an actuator issue? Which part is the actuator?
I have no idea how this door lock / cable has become such a mangled mutant mess. I shudder at having to try and replace that entire severed cable, but that may be the only way. I just don't know where it leads, how to get in there between the steel panels, or how/where to attach it. Help if you can! I'm just looking for the most affordable yet durable solution. Thanks for your generous time and advice.
#2
That's a butchered attempt at a piggyback actuator (except he cut it up instead of the piggyback).
It will not be hard to fix, but the inside lever will just flop around since the cable was cut. Read about it here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...than-15/page-6
I think you will need to sign up to be able to see pics, but then it will all make sense.
Is the actuator working at all when you hit the power lock button?
It will not be hard to fix, but the inside lever will just flop around since the cable was cut. Read about it here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...than-15/page-6
I think you will need to sign up to be able to see pics, but then it will all make sense.
Is the actuator working at all when you hit the power lock button?
#3
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Cables needs both the sheath as well as the inner cable to be intact. The force is generated by the cable against the sheath. Contrast that with the 'rod' .. which moves against the frame (door panel).
The only viable solution is to replace the cable and the sheath to fix the lock-**** to the lock (inside manual lock).
The next issue would be how to get the electronic lock (remote + front door activated). You can look at the door lock actuator DIY or purchase the door lock mechanism. Check if the cables come with the door lock. ebay or salvage yards would be your other alternative.
For piggy back (the botched up job you have) the recommended solution is to connect to the ****,
Salim
The only viable solution is to replace the cable and the sheath to fix the lock-**** to the lock (inside manual lock).
The next issue would be how to get the electronic lock (remote + front door activated). You can look at the door lock actuator DIY or purchase the door lock mechanism. Check if the cables come with the door lock. ebay or salvage yards would be your other alternative.
For piggy back (the botched up job you have) the recommended solution is to connect to the ****,
Salim
#4
Lexus Test Driver
If I were you, I'd take out the aftermarket actuator.
Then pull out the real OE actuator/door lock assembly. When you remove that the inside door handle will also come out with it.
Personally, I'd then just buy a re-man door lock assembly off of ebay which comes with the door lock handle. Which most do.
IF you don't like that option, go to a junkyard and get a new inside door handle with cable. (you don't need the handle really, just the cable).
And then if you want it to work via remote, follow the door lock actuator DIY on CL.
BTW: Welcome to Club Lexus!
Then pull out the real OE actuator/door lock assembly. When you remove that the inside door handle will also come out with it.
Personally, I'd then just buy a re-man door lock assembly off of ebay which comes with the door lock handle. Which most do.
IF you don't like that option, go to a junkyard and get a new inside door handle with cable. (you don't need the handle really, just the cable).
And then if you want it to work via remote, follow the door lock actuator DIY on CL.
BTW: Welcome to Club Lexus!
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Thank you all for your quick replies. Thanks to you and a little more analysis of the hack job I think I understand more of what is going on and what needs to be done.
I do not know if the original actuator is still there. It isn't visible and I can't feel it down in there below the green replacement, but it may be there once I open up the metal panel, am I right? IF the original is still there, that's the best news possible (it seems). It seems I could then follow your advice hypervish, and try to replace the original actuator's motor. I suppose I'll have to re-configure the wires back to the original configuration also, as well as of course replace the severed cable to make the manual lock work.
thank you salimshah. I think I found the correct part number for the cable and it appears to be $15 or so. Part # 6973048010 ---- 69770B in this diagram --- Is it simple to re-attach the cable to the door latch?
carguy07, I hope to be able to fix both the electric lock and the manual lever, but if the original actuator is not there, I don't think this will be possible (?). If it is there and I can't fix it by replacing the motor. I suppose I could follow the tutorial on Lexus Owners Club about how to do so. I appreciate any additional help!
I do not know if the original actuator is still there. It isn't visible and I can't feel it down in there below the green replacement, but it may be there once I open up the metal panel, am I right? IF the original is still there, that's the best news possible (it seems). It seems I could then follow your advice hypervish, and try to replace the original actuator's motor. I suppose I'll have to re-configure the wires back to the original configuration also, as well as of course replace the severed cable to make the manual lock work.
thank you salimshah. I think I found the correct part number for the cable and it appears to be $15 or so. Part # 6973048010 ---- 69770B in this diagram --- Is it simple to re-attach the cable to the door latch?
carguy07, I hope to be able to fix both the electric lock and the manual lever, but if the original actuator is not there, I don't think this will be possible (?). If it is there and I can't fix it by replacing the motor. I suppose I could follow the tutorial on Lexus Owners Club about how to do so. I appreciate any additional help!
#6
Here is more info that details how to repair or replace the OE actuator.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-write-up.html
If it was me, I think I would just get it working again the way it was rigged and call it good. I guess it depends on how much you value having the inside lever work. But it would not be a big job to get the butchered "fix" working again.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-write-up.html
If it was me, I think I would just get it working again the way it was rigged and call it good. I guess it depends on how much you value having the inside lever work. But it would not be a big job to get the butchered "fix" working again.
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Thank you all for your quick replies. Thanks to you and a little more analysis of the hack job I think I understand more of what is going on and what needs to be done.
I do not know if the original actuator is still there. It isn't visible and I can't feel it down in there below the green replacement, but it may be there once I open up the metal panel, am I right? IF the original is still there, that's the best news possible (it seems). It seems I could then follow your advice hypervish, and try to replace the original actuator's motor. I suppose I'll have to re-configure the wires back to the original configuration also, as well as of course replace the severed cable to make the manual lock work.
thank you salimshah. I think I found the correct part number for the cable and it appears to be $15 or so. Part # 6973048010 ---- 69770B in this diagram --- Is it simple to re-attach the cable to the door latch?
carguy07, I hope to be able to fix both the electric lock and the manual lever, but if the original actuator is not there, I don't think this will be possible (?). If it is there and I can't fix it by replacing the motor. I suppose I could follow the tutorial on Lexus Owners Club about how to do so. I appreciate any additional help!
I do not know if the original actuator is still there. It isn't visible and I can't feel it down in there below the green replacement, but it may be there once I open up the metal panel, am I right? IF the original is still there, that's the best news possible (it seems). It seems I could then follow your advice hypervish, and try to replace the original actuator's motor. I suppose I'll have to re-configure the wires back to the original configuration also, as well as of course replace the severed cable to make the manual lock work.
thank you salimshah. I think I found the correct part number for the cable and it appears to be $15 or so. Part # 6973048010 ---- 69770B in this diagram --- Is it simple to re-attach the cable to the door latch?
carguy07, I hope to be able to fix both the electric lock and the manual lever, but if the original actuator is not there, I don't think this will be possible (?). If it is there and I can't fix it by replacing the motor. I suppose I could follow the tutorial on Lexus Owners Club about how to do so. I appreciate any additional help!
In order to get it out, you just need to remove one bolt that holds the window rack in. After that you remove the 3 or 4 torx screws holding the latch in and then wiggle it out of there.
You will find more details in the link that Carguy07 posted above.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
It sounds like these guys have your solution, RXandEX. They have helped me many times. Welcome to the forum. I just had to add that I loved your colorful description of the problem. Good luck!
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Thanks hypervish and carguy07 (by the way, is there a way to tag users in posts?)
carguy07 I think I do want the manual locks to work. Not at all costs, but if possible. It's the harder job, but I'd prefer they work. If I order a new cable (6973048010) is it pretty straightforward to attach to the OEM actuator?
thanks hypervish, I suspected that was the case; thanks for confirming. The tutorial on ClubLexus requires the "Walkera Universal Pinion Gear Puller" - - however there is a tutorial on "lexusownersclub" which doesn't seem to . . . just wondering if all that gear "gear" is necessary.
carguy07 I think I do want the manual locks to work. Not at all costs, but if possible. It's the harder job, but I'd prefer they work. If I order a new cable (6973048010) is it pretty straightforward to attach to the OEM actuator?
thanks hypervish, I suspected that was the case; thanks for confirming. The tutorial on ClubLexus requires the "Walkera Universal Pinion Gear Puller" - - however there is a tutorial on "lexusownersclub" which doesn't seem to . . . just wondering if all that gear "gear" is necessary.
#10
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Thanks hypervish and carguy07 (by the way, is there a way to tag users in posts?)
carguy07 I think I do want the manual locks to work. Not at all costs, but if possible. It's the harder job, but I'd prefer they work. If I order a new cable (6973048010) is it pretty straightforward to attach to the OEM actuator?
thanks hypervish, I suspected that was the case; thanks for confirming. The tutorial on ClubLexus requires the "Walkera Universal Pinion Gear Puller" - - however there is a tutorial on "lexusownersclub" which doesn't seem to . . . just wondering if all that gear "gear" is necessary.
carguy07 I think I do want the manual locks to work. Not at all costs, but if possible. It's the harder job, but I'd prefer they work. If I order a new cable (6973048010) is it pretty straightforward to attach to the OEM actuator?
thanks hypervish, I suspected that was the case; thanks for confirming. The tutorial on ClubLexus requires the "Walkera Universal Pinion Gear Puller" - - however there is a tutorial on "lexusownersclub" which doesn't seem to . . . just wondering if all that gear "gear" is necessary.
Well the tutorial on CL is to take apart the original door lock actuator and replace the little RC motor that is inside. It is recommended that you buy the gear puller, but it is not necessary. You can accomplish the same thing using two claw hammers.
The tutorial on US Lexus Ownersclub is to add an additional lock actuator to assist the original door lock actuator. This is basically what you have now, well at least it's an attempt to do that. However, the person who did it tried to apply their own twist to it which by the looks of it was good in theory. However in retrospect did not work as planned.
These two DIY's are not to be used together, use one or the other.
This ebay item shows what the original door lock actuator looks like, and where the cable for the manual door lock attaches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-RX300-Rear-Right-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-99-03-OEM-40-REFUND-/200948290176?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX300&hash=item2ec9739280&vxp=mtr
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Thanks Hypervish - - is attaching a new cable to that OEM actuator possible? I can't tell based on the picture as it looks like the very end of the wire (leftmost wire end in this photo) is hidden on the other side of the white lever thing. I WAS able to see where it attaches to the inside door handle and that will be no sweat.
trhs75 - thanks - - - just trying to keep it light!
trhs75 - thanks - - - just trying to keep it light!
#12
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks Hypervish - - is attaching a new cable to that OEM actuator possible? I can't tell based on the picture as it looks like the very end of the wire (leftmost wire end in this photo) is hidden on the other side of the white lever thing. I WAS able to see where it attaches to the inside door handle and that will be no sweat.
trhs75 - thanks - - - just trying to keep it light!
trhs75 - thanks - - - just trying to keep it light!
You're welcome!
This page has good picture references:https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...rite-up-5.html
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thanks so much - the pictures are great. But to me it looks like the thin metal rod sticking out of the white phallus-like tip is somehow glued or affixed to the white lever. Or are you saying the thin metal rod isn't part of the lock cable assembly and simply attaches to it? I think that's what you're saying . . . and i'm fixin to feel dumb
#14
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You can pull out the white plastic piece (shaped like the head of a mouse) from the metal snap in lock. The plastic provides a shoulder to the sheath. Once you snap off the plastic piece, you can detach the cable from the lock lever (by angling it out).
Salim
Salim