P0330 Knock Sensor, 15 min. Hack Repair...
#136
Driver School Candidate
Buy the way I'm getting all the parts I'm going to need before i dive into the right way. I've had a lot of cars and truck's but this sixteen year old is the best old car I have ever owned better than some brand new out of the show room. I'm going to enjoy going into it.
#137
Driver School Candidate
I spliced black wire into the clear wire. Erased the code. Took car for test dive and as soon as I hit 45 MPH It started throwing a P0330 code and lose of high gear also.Thinking it might be a bad splice I redid the splice and repeated test drive. Same result. Any other ideas on this 2002 RX 300 or should I just put the black wire together,button up the glove box and take it to the garage. I'm a senior citizen and no longer able to do any major repairs any longer. :
#138
Driver School Candidate
I spliced black wire into the clear wire. Erased the code. Took car for test dive and as soon as I hit 45 MPH It started throwing a P0330 code and lose of high gear also.Thinking it might be a bad splice I redid the splice and repeated test drive. Same result. Any other ideas on this 2002 RX 300 or should I just put the black wire together,button up the glove box and take it to the garage. I'm a senior citizen and no longer able to do any major repairs any longer. :
#139
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 2
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Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Knock Sensor Problems
Hello everybody,Okay, let me describe my basic situation. I’m here in the US for 6 month for an internship and bought a used Lexus ES300 2001 with 215k miles of from craigslist for $1700 (I know there should be something wrong)
I LOVE THAT CAR.
But last week the CEL came on - 2 codes one of the knock sensors and the downstream O2. After deleting the codes they come back on immediately after I turn the car back on… At first I had issues with the fail safe mode (no overdrive, weird RPM), but now my car is driving great. The RPM, Transmission and everything works perfect – I can only feel slight vibrations when I drive around 65-70 mph. My gas mileage is still okay (23 city / 28 highway). I switch between premium gasoline (93) and regular (87) with additive.
I had to learn that the knock sensor is an expensive fix and the best price I got so far was $700 with used original parts. I am now hesitant to put any money in a car that I want to drive only 5 more month.
I found this fix and am really considering it – I just have to find someone who does it for me since my technical capabilities are limited.
My question is now if it is safe to drive the car as it is right now? So I know that a broken sensor might lead to engine damage, but with a car in that age/miles that could happen due to various reasons. Right?My plan was to drive that car as it is and if I start having issues like some described here (overdrive, no power, bad gas mileage) find someone to do the 15 minute fix.
Or would y’all suggest doing the 15 min fix now – no matter what?Another possibility would be to sell the car for cheap and start looking into used cars again.But I hate the idea of selling my first Lexus...
What would you guys do?
Thanks and Best regards
Rene
I LOVE THAT CAR.
But last week the CEL came on - 2 codes one of the knock sensors and the downstream O2. After deleting the codes they come back on immediately after I turn the car back on… At first I had issues with the fail safe mode (no overdrive, weird RPM), but now my car is driving great. The RPM, Transmission and everything works perfect – I can only feel slight vibrations when I drive around 65-70 mph. My gas mileage is still okay (23 city / 28 highway). I switch between premium gasoline (93) and regular (87) with additive.
I had to learn that the knock sensor is an expensive fix and the best price I got so far was $700 with used original parts. I am now hesitant to put any money in a car that I want to drive only 5 more month.
I found this fix and am really considering it – I just have to find someone who does it for me since my technical capabilities are limited.
My question is now if it is safe to drive the car as it is right now? So I know that a broken sensor might lead to engine damage, but with a car in that age/miles that could happen due to various reasons. Right?My plan was to drive that car as it is and if I start having issues like some described here (overdrive, no power, bad gas mileage) find someone to do the 15 minute fix.
Or would y’all suggest doing the 15 min fix now – no matter what?Another possibility would be to sell the car for cheap and start looking into used cars again.But I hate the idea of selling my first Lexus...
What would you guys do?
Thanks and Best regards
Rene
Last edited by RenMar; 11-01-16 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Formating
#140
Driver School Candidate
Hello everybody,Okay, let me describe my basic situation. I’m here in the US for 6 month for an internship and bought a used Lexus ES300 2001 with 215k miles of from craigslist for $1700 (I know there should be something wrong)
I LOVE THAT CAR.
But last week the CEL came on - 2 codes one of the knock sensors and the downstream O2. After deleting the codes they come back on immediately after I turn the car back on… At first I had issues with the fail safe mode (no overdrive, weird RPM), but now my car is driving great. The RPM, Transmission and everything works perfect – I can only feel slight vibrations when I drive around 65-70 mph. My gas mileage is still okay (23 city / 28 highway). I switch between premium gasoline (93) and regular (87) with additive.
I had to learn that the knock sensor is an expensive fix and the best price I got so far was $700 with used original parts. I am now hesitant to put any money in a car that I want to drive only 5 more month.
I found this fix and am really considering it – I just have to find someone who does it for me since my technical capabilities are limited.
My question is now if it is safe to drive the car as it is right now? So I know that a broken sensor might lead to engine damage, but with a car in that age/miles that could happen due to various reasons. Right?My plan was to drive that car as it is and if I start having issues like some described here (overdrive, no power, bad gas mileage) find someone to do the 15 minute fix.
Or would y’all suggest doing the 15 min fix now – no matter what?Another possibility would be to sell the car for cheap and start looking into used cars again.But I hate the idea of selling my first Lexus...
What would you guys do?
Thanks and Best regards
Rene
I LOVE THAT CAR.
But last week the CEL came on - 2 codes one of the knock sensors and the downstream O2. After deleting the codes they come back on immediately after I turn the car back on… At first I had issues with the fail safe mode (no overdrive, weird RPM), but now my car is driving great. The RPM, Transmission and everything works perfect – I can only feel slight vibrations when I drive around 65-70 mph. My gas mileage is still okay (23 city / 28 highway). I switch between premium gasoline (93) and regular (87) with additive.
I had to learn that the knock sensor is an expensive fix and the best price I got so far was $700 with used original parts. I am now hesitant to put any money in a car that I want to drive only 5 more month.
I found this fix and am really considering it – I just have to find someone who does it for me since my technical capabilities are limited.
My question is now if it is safe to drive the car as it is right now? So I know that a broken sensor might lead to engine damage, but with a car in that age/miles that could happen due to various reasons. Right?My plan was to drive that car as it is and if I start having issues like some described here (overdrive, no power, bad gas mileage) find someone to do the 15 minute fix.
Or would y’all suggest doing the 15 min fix now – no matter what?Another possibility would be to sell the car for cheap and start looking into used cars again.But I hate the idea of selling my first Lexus...
What would you guys do?
Thanks and Best regards
Rene
#141
Lexus Test Driver
My RX300 finally threw this code at 240,000 miles. I've been awaiting this day for awhile, haha. I'll be going the replacement route, but not for a few months (too cold to deal with this job right now).
#142
Driver School Candidate
Hi, CW; I'm interested in the upgrade of the rear valve cover.
Fair warning and advice to those of you who will do, and have done, this hack:
You mention upgrading the rear valve cover. Can you post where you got it an specs of what to look for.
This is a HACK, and should not be considered a permanent fix. The 1st Gen RX300's appear to be notorious for this issue and a small handful of other issues. If you are going to do this I highly recommend that after doing so you determine how to replace the sensors (or in my case the wiring harnesses). Figure out if you are going to do it, or if you are going to have a shop do the work and prepare for it, because it is my opinion that it is only a matter of time until the other sensor begins throwing the knock code. Just fair warning. (in my case 33,000 miles before the other knock sensor went out)
Also, my advice, if you are going to do this job or have this job done, it only makes sense to also have a full tuneup. Your going to be tearing all the way down to the rear valve cover anyways, so you might as well replace the rear valve cover with the newer updated one, and PCV, to prevent the whole "oil leaking through the PCV" issue, replace your spark plugs, replace all of the gaskets and seals you're going to have access to.. SUPER DUPER worth while if you want this car to last and run really well. It can be a costly or time consuming venture, but I believe $2,000 spent on this car, and knowing its exact condition, is money better spent than on some "new" car that you'll be unfamiliar with and likely will not be nearly as dependable and serviceable.
My two cents.
You mention upgrading the rear valve cover. Can you post where you got it an specs of what to look for.
This is a HACK, and should not be considered a permanent fix. The 1st Gen RX300's appear to be notorious for this issue and a small handful of other issues. If you are going to do this I highly recommend that after doing so you determine how to replace the sensors (or in my case the wiring harnesses). Figure out if you are going to do it, or if you are going to have a shop do the work and prepare for it, because it is my opinion that it is only a matter of time until the other sensor begins throwing the knock code. Just fair warning. (in my case 33,000 miles before the other knock sensor went out)
Also, my advice, if you are going to do this job or have this job done, it only makes sense to also have a full tuneup. Your going to be tearing all the way down to the rear valve cover anyways, so you might as well replace the rear valve cover with the newer updated one, and PCV, to prevent the whole "oil leaking through the PCV" issue, replace your spark plugs, replace all of the gaskets and seals you're going to have access to.. SUPER DUPER worth while if you want this car to last and run really well. It can be a costly or time consuming venture, but I believe $2,000 spent on this car, and knowing its exact condition, is money better spent than on some "new" car that you'll be unfamiliar with and likely will not be nearly as dependable and serviceable.
My two cents.
#143
Driver School Candidate
if you live close to me I'll give you a hand not only that I have a shop at my house we can do it there. I'm 75 myself and as soon as I gather all the parts I need, I'll be jumping into it. My e mail address is (ezpejo7@gmail.com) I live in Texas by the Red River. North of Denison.
#144
Driver School Candidate
if you live close to me I'll give you a hand not only that I have a shop at my house we can do it there. I'm 75 myself and as soon as I gather all the parts I need, I'll be jumping into it. My e mail address is (ezpejo7@gmail.com) I live in Texas by the Red River. North of Denison.
#145
Driver School Candidate
Puckingtruc;
I posted a reply for you where I offer to give you a hand replacing the knock sensors since you mentioned you were a senior citizens that is if you live close to me.
I posted a reply for you where I offer to give you a hand replacing the knock sensors since you mentioned you were a senior citizens that is if you live close to me.
The following users liked this post:
Srtracton (10-22-21)
#146
Driver School Candidate
C.W. I'm interested in the upgrading of the rear valve cover, where did you buy it an for how much. It makes sense to me if it's a common problem. I have a 2000 rx300, I tried the hack and the cel came back on I know sometimes it's other problems like wire harness. I'm gathering what I'm going to need to do it the right way no sence waiting my time. I'm really impressed with the quality of this vehicle I'm sure it will not be a waist of my time and money. Thank you for the head's up.
I purchased my updated rear valve cover on eBay. At the time it was the only one I could find.
Info for the complete job:
99-03 RX300 Right Valve Cover NEW genuine Lexus OEM 11201-0A060 (That is the updated one, if you're updating a 99-00 RX300) : Paid $194.95 + $16.80 Shipping
PCV Valve BECK/ARNLEY 045-0345 (This is the metal PCV for the new valve cover., this is assuming you are updating you're 99-00 RX300) : Paid $5.99 + $2.04 Shipping
LEXUS OEM FACTORY VALVE COVER GASKETS AND SPARK PLUG SEAL SET 1999-2003 RX300 (11213-0A010 VALVLE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11214-0A010 VALVE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11193-70010 x6 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL) : Paid $39.86 + $2.71 Shipping
94-10 Toyota Camry Avalon Solara Lexus ES300 RX330 1MZFE 3MZFE AISIN Water Pump (Part #WPT-057, for "1MZFE" Engine for a 99-03 Lexus RX300) : Paid $59.99 + Free Shipping
MITSUBOSHI FITS FOR TOYOTA AND LEXUS ENGINE TIMING BELT TB257M : Paid $24.20 + $3.63 Shipping
HAT006-11 Hydraulic Timing Belt Tensioner 1992-02 Toyota / Lexus V6 3.0L : Paid $29.00 + Free Shipping
Serpentine Belt MITSUBOSHI 6PK1040 : Paid $14.03 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Crankshaft Seal 9031140022 : Paid $9.42 + $2.22 Shipping
TOYOTA OEM Camshaft-Oil Seal 9031138034 : Paid $13.94 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Power Steering Belt 900809108883 : Paid $3.89 + Free Shipping
6-Pieces OEM SK20R11(3297) Long Life Iridium Spark Plugs Lexus Toyota 6cyl NEW: Paid $39.45 + Free Shipping
GENUINE TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR WIRE HARNESS OEM 82219-33030 (You only need one harness., it has hookups for both knock sensors) : Paid $28.80 + $4.00 Shipping
TOYOTA Lexus OEM 8961512090 Ignition Knock Detonation Sensor 89615-12090 (You ABSOLUTELY SHOULD REPLACE BOTH SENSORS): Paid $118.00 for qty:2 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Intake Manifold Gasket 1717662030 : Paid $9.02 + $2.04 Shipping
I also ended up replacing my Alternator.., I cannot remember the exact details but essentially it was necessary to remove the alternator in order to complete the above job and the hardware was so rusted it could not be removed, so we had to cut it out which ruined it and therefore I had to replace it.
Subtotal:
Total Parts Cost $591.44
Total Shipping Cost $33.44
------------------------------
Total Cost $624.88
*Final Words: To anyone dealing with "knock sensor issues", "oil wasting syndrome", "Constantly failing O2 & A/F Sensors" on your First Gen RX (99-03) (specifically 2000 RX300, because that's what I have) please do this job. Your RX baby will run sooo well if you take care of these issues. It took me a really long time to figure out the issues I had with my 2000 RX300, so learn from me and utilize this information.
**To make it super clear this is what's happening to the first gen RX's that have "oil wasting syndrome" aka "disappearing oil":
1)The original rear valve cover is flawed and eventually allows oil to leak through PCV and combust. 2)The combusting oil eventually causes your 3 catalytic converters to fail and clog, along with low level of oil in your engine causing sludge buildup etc. 3)Catalytic converters are "clogged"/"Failing" from all that oil they are trying to burn which stops up the exhaust system keeping your engine from being able to freely exhaust and run well, and super heating your exhaust system which is home to your two O2 sensors and A/F Sensor causing them to constantly super heat and fail way prematurely, so you replace them but because the systemic issues haven't been remedied your sensors just keep failing over and over again.
So replacing that rear valve cover and PCV with the updated one is essential to fixing the systemic issues, and since the knock sensors/harnesses WILL FAIL, and your already in there you may as well do the entire job I started this message outlining, to save you a huge headache and money down the road.
Thank you.
#147
Driver School Candidate
Gitano,
I purchased my updated rear valve cover on eBay. At the time it was the only one I could find.
Info for the complete job:
99-03 RX300 Right Valve Cover NEW genuine Lexus OEM 11201-0A060 (That is the updated one, if you're updating a 99-00 RX300) : Paid $194.95 + $16.80 Shipping
PCV Valve BECK/ARNLEY 045-0345 (This is the metal PCV for the new valve cover., this is assuming you are updating you're 99-00 RX300) : Paid $5.99 + $2.04 Shipping
LEXUS OEM FACTORY VALVE COVER GASKETS AND SPARK PLUG SEAL SET 1999-2003 RX300 (11213-0A010 VALVLE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11214-0A010 VALVE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11193-70010 x6 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL) : Paid $39.86 + $2.71 Shipping
94-10 Toyota Camry Avalon Solara Lexus ES300 RX330 1MZFE 3MZFE AISIN Water Pump (Part #WPT-057, for "1MZFE" Engine for a 99-03 Lexus RX300) : Paid $59.99 + Free Shipping
MITSUBOSHI FITS FOR TOYOTA AND LEXUS ENGINE TIMING BELT TB257M : Paid $24.20 + $3.63 Shipping
HAT006-11 Hydraulic Timing Belt Tensioner 1992-02 Toyota / Lexus V6 3.0L : Paid $29.00 + Free Shipping
Serpentine Belt MITSUBOSHI 6PK1040 : Paid $14.03 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Crankshaft Seal 9031140022 : Paid $9.42 + $2.22 Shipping
TOYOTA OEM Camshaft-Oil Seal 9031138034 : Paid $13.94 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Power Steering Belt 900809108883 : Paid $3.89 + Free Shipping
6-Pieces OEM SK20R11(3297) Long Life Iridium Spark Plugs Lexus Toyota 6cyl NEW: Paid $39.45 + Free Shipping
GENUINE TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR WIRE HARNESS OEM 82219-33030 (You only need one harness., it has hookups for both knock sensors) : Paid $28.80 + $4.00 Shipping
TOYOTA Lexus OEM 8961512090 Ignition Knock Detonation Sensor 89615-12090 (You ABSOLUTELY SHOULD REPLACE BOTH SENSORS): Paid $118.00 for qty:2 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Intake Manifold Gasket 1717662030 : Paid $9.02 + $2.04 Shipping
I also ended up replacing my Alternator.., I cannot remember the exact details but essentially it was necessary to remove the alternator in order to complete the above job and the hardware was so rusted it could not be removed, so we had to cut it out which ruined it and therefore I had to replace it.
Subtotal:
Total Parts Cost $591.44
Total Shipping Cost $33.44
------------------------------
Total Cost $624.88
*Final Words: To anyone dealing with "knock sensor issues", "oil wasting syndrome", "Constantly failing O2 & A/F Sensors" on your First Gen RX (99-03) (specifically 2000 RX300, because that's what I have) please do this job. Your RX baby will run sooo well if you take care of these issues. It took me a really long time to figure out the issues I had with my 2000 RX300, so learn from me and utilize this information.
**To make it super clear this is what's happening to the first gen RX's that have "oil wasting syndrome" aka "disappearing oil":
1)The original rear valve cover is flawed and eventually allows oil to leak through PCV and combust. 2)The combusting oil eventually causes your 3 catalytic converters to fail and clog, along with low level of oil in your engine causing sludge buildup etc. 3)Catalytic converters are "clogged"/"Failing" from all that oil they are trying to burn which stops up the exhaust system keeping your engine from being able to freely exhaust and run well, and super heating your exhaust system which is home to your two O2 sensors and A/F Sensor causing them to constantly super heat and fail way prematurely, so you replace them but because the systemic issues haven't been remedied your sensors just keep failing over and over again.
So replacing that rear valve cover and PCV with the updated one is essential to fixing the systemic issues, and since the knock sensors/harnesses WILL FAIL, and your already in there you may as well do the entire job I started this message outlining, to save you a huge headache and money down the road.
Thank you.
I purchased my updated rear valve cover on eBay. At the time it was the only one I could find.
Info for the complete job:
99-03 RX300 Right Valve Cover NEW genuine Lexus OEM 11201-0A060 (That is the updated one, if you're updating a 99-00 RX300) : Paid $194.95 + $16.80 Shipping
PCV Valve BECK/ARNLEY 045-0345 (This is the metal PCV for the new valve cover., this is assuming you are updating you're 99-00 RX300) : Paid $5.99 + $2.04 Shipping
LEXUS OEM FACTORY VALVE COVER GASKETS AND SPARK PLUG SEAL SET 1999-2003 RX300 (11213-0A010 VALVLE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11214-0A010 VALVE COVER GASKET QTY.1, 11193-70010 x6 SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL) : Paid $39.86 + $2.71 Shipping
94-10 Toyota Camry Avalon Solara Lexus ES300 RX330 1MZFE 3MZFE AISIN Water Pump (Part #WPT-057, for "1MZFE" Engine for a 99-03 Lexus RX300) : Paid $59.99 + Free Shipping
MITSUBOSHI FITS FOR TOYOTA AND LEXUS ENGINE TIMING BELT TB257M : Paid $24.20 + $3.63 Shipping
HAT006-11 Hydraulic Timing Belt Tensioner 1992-02 Toyota / Lexus V6 3.0L : Paid $29.00 + Free Shipping
Serpentine Belt MITSUBOSHI 6PK1040 : Paid $14.03 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Crankshaft Seal 9031140022 : Paid $9.42 + $2.22 Shipping
TOYOTA OEM Camshaft-Oil Seal 9031138034 : Paid $13.94 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Power Steering Belt 900809108883 : Paid $3.89 + Free Shipping
6-Pieces OEM SK20R11(3297) Long Life Iridium Spark Plugs Lexus Toyota 6cyl NEW: Paid $39.45 + Free Shipping
GENUINE TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR WIRE HARNESS OEM 82219-33030 (You only need one harness., it has hookups for both knock sensors) : Paid $28.80 + $4.00 Shipping
TOYOTA Lexus OEM 8961512090 Ignition Knock Detonation Sensor 89615-12090 (You ABSOLUTELY SHOULD REPLACE BOTH SENSORS): Paid $118.00 for qty:2 + Free Shipping
TOYOTA OEM-Engine Intake Manifold Gasket 1717662030 : Paid $9.02 + $2.04 Shipping
I also ended up replacing my Alternator.., I cannot remember the exact details but essentially it was necessary to remove the alternator in order to complete the above job and the hardware was so rusted it could not be removed, so we had to cut it out which ruined it and therefore I had to replace it.
Subtotal:
Total Parts Cost $591.44
Total Shipping Cost $33.44
------------------------------
Total Cost $624.88
*Final Words: To anyone dealing with "knock sensor issues", "oil wasting syndrome", "Constantly failing O2 & A/F Sensors" on your First Gen RX (99-03) (specifically 2000 RX300, because that's what I have) please do this job. Your RX baby will run sooo well if you take care of these issues. It took me a really long time to figure out the issues I had with my 2000 RX300, so learn from me and utilize this information.
**To make it super clear this is what's happening to the first gen RX's that have "oil wasting syndrome" aka "disappearing oil":
1)The original rear valve cover is flawed and eventually allows oil to leak through PCV and combust. 2)The combusting oil eventually causes your 3 catalytic converters to fail and clog, along with low level of oil in your engine causing sludge buildup etc. 3)Catalytic converters are "clogged"/"Failing" from all that oil they are trying to burn which stops up the exhaust system keeping your engine from being able to freely exhaust and run well, and super heating your exhaust system which is home to your two O2 sensors and A/F Sensor causing them to constantly super heat and fail way prematurely, so you replace them but because the systemic issues haven't been remedied your sensors just keep failing over and over again.
So replacing that rear valve cover and PCV with the updated one is essential to fixing the systemic issues, and since the knock sensors/harnesses WILL FAIL, and your already in there you may as well do the entire job I started this message outlining, to save you a huge headache and money down the road.
Thank you.
thank you for your attention I really like the information, I will be paying attention to it when I finally dive into my rx. I will always hold you in high regard. Thank you very much. Gitano.
#148
Successful completion of the hack on Saturday, put about 120 miles on it over the weekend and its been fine.
Many thanks to bobster for posting this up.
Also to Cwsteini for awesome pic's, made it super easy.
15 minute job including searching for my wire strippers and stopping to refill my coffee mug.
Applause !!!!!
Many thanks to bobster for posting this up.
Also to Cwsteini for awesome pic's, made it super easy.
15 minute job including searching for my wire strippers and stopping to refill my coffee mug.
Applause !!!!!
#149
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PO330 Knock Sensor, 15 min. Hack Repair
I just wanted to give out another thanks for this post it solved the PO0330 code and my RX300 is now shifting into OD.
#150
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ok guys,
My time is over here.
I sold the RX yesterday.
This thread was pretty much my only contribution in here.
Based on the feedback and large number of views I think its was a good one.
Hope all is well with all of my fellow RX peeps.
Peace out!
My time is over here.
I sold the RX yesterday.
This thread was pretty much my only contribution in here.
Based on the feedback and large number of views I think its was a good one.
Hope all is well with all of my fellow RX peeps.
Peace out!