code58

It could be the inner tie rod because accerating would cause the torque of the front wheels to pull to a "toe out" condition and deceleration would cause it to go to a "toe in" condition and definitely could cause the torque steer. A car with excessive toe out is a strange beast to drive.

HadYurPhil

Ordered an inner rod yesterday. I'm convinced there is too much play in the right wheel. and no fine tuning of the tie rod's toe-in on that side helps. There's no point in getting an alignment until I replace the inner. Already replaced the end.

Is there any reason (since I'm not going to reuse the old inner tie rod) that I can't just use Vise Grips or something similar on the inner rod to get it out?? The new one has wrench flats on it, so I should be able to get that one on OK.

code58

HYP, the rod MAY not come out far enough at it's extreme to get access to the wrench flats. That's why I suggested the "muffler clamp" type IF the inner end of the rod is exposed enought to get on the end with the clamp, because it was a lot cheaper than the proper tool that uses a special "crow foot" type of open end wrench. IF it is not exposed enough, your only choice is to use the correct wrench. You might try Autozone or one of the parts stores that either loans or rents tools so that you don't have to buy it. I have them for Ford which were a hex socket welded on the end of a pipe at least 12-14 in long. (specially made) I would just pull the clamp for the inner end of the boot and turn the wheels all the way to that side and see if the "flat" is exposed or not. The boots often use special tools to "reset" the clamps also. There are quite a few different type of clamps used by different auto manufacturers. (your old rod will likely be just like the new one with the "flats").

HadYurPhil

This weekend I'll loosen the protective boot and crank the steering hard left to see if I can see the right inner tie rod end. And then govern myself accordingly.

code58

It will almost for sure have a lock of some kind in the end to keep it from unscrewing (if it did, now that WOULD be a scary ride ). The ones I've worked on (mostly Ford) had a flat shim under the threaded end with a tab that got bent over once the threads were tight. That type of lock can be reused once flattened and the boot clamps can normally be re-used if you're careful with them.

HadYurPhil

The tie rod I ordered comes with a new shim, although I wouldn't be adverse to reusing the old one. I am also interested in seeing what sort of boot clamp is used. More later.

HadYurPhil

Well, from the look of things, I'll have to get a special tool of some sort. The right tie rod assembly is pretty well blocked by part of the frame. For those who haven't looked, here's a picture from under the fender:


Here's the business end from under the car. It's in the middle right:


And, a close-up:


I can see how it would be easier (so to speak) to get to it from the fender area. Is that a good guess? I have a MOOG replacement inner tie rod and lock washer all ready to go. Also looks like I'm losing oil around the rear valve cover.

hypervish

Off topic, but look's like your rear valve cover is leaking.

HadYurPhil

What is the proper way to loosen the boot clamps on the tie rod and rack?

And, I went ahead and ordered a "muffler clamp" style tool in case I need it.

HadYurPhil

Received my "muffler clamp" today. Looks like I have my work cut out for me.

Again, anyone know the proper procedure for removing the boot clamps??

HadYurPhil

Just finished changing the inner tie rod. If I hadn't had to deal with so much oil and grease, I would have taken some pictures.

Anyway, based on my experience, here are some observations:

The large clamp around the big end of the tie rod boot is not easy to re-tighten. I was able to squeeze the metal clips together, but will check it periodically. The small end is easy to remove and replace.

Make note of the amount of boot coverage on the old tie rod so you can place it properly on the new tie rod.

It is much easier to work with the wheel off, although that's not vital.

Although you can see the flat sides on the tie rod end where a wrench could go, you won't be able to reach it with any other kind of wrench but a crow foot.

The "muffler clamp" style of removal tool is painstaking to put on and take off but it works great. Make sure the one you buy can deal with 1 3/16" diameter clamps. That was the smallest size on the "OEM" brand one I bought, but it worked fine.

I woild not reuse the "lock washer" on the new tie rod end. Get one (I bought MOOG) that comes with a new washer. Folding it over the end of the tie rod is tricky.

Now it is off to get the front end aligned and test the steering!