Rodney79

Problem: Front passenger window stuck down. Won't go back up from either the passenger door switch or the master driver-side controller. When I use either switch I can here a clicking noise coming from the motor. So, I followed the instructions posted by Lexmex (found here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...moval-diy.html) and removed the window and motor - very good instructions BTW. To test the motor after I had it removed I reconnected the motor to the power connector and the reconnected the controller switch. At first all I got was a clicking noise from the motor when the switch was pressed. Then I removed the motor from the actuator rails and tried again - this time the motor runs freely every time the switch is pressed. So now I'm cheering that maybe there was just some dirt or something hanging it up... so I reassembled the motor to the actuator and tried again. What I find is that the motor will move the actuator to the "down" position, but will not move when I press the window switch up until I play with the switch for a few minutes - eventually it will move up part way. When I continue to press the switch "up", the actuator moves down! It will go all the way down, then may, or may not move back up as I'm playing with the switch. All this is making me conclude that the motor is OK and the problem is in the controller. Any advice out there?

Update 9/12: I disconnected the driver's side controller and reconnected on the passenger side. Using the driver's side switch, the motor works fine in both directions. However, if I move the driver's side switch back to the driver's side door and try to activate the passenger side window motor - no response at all. In my mind this confirms for me that the problem is not the motor, but the passenger side controller/switch. Any other opinions are welcome.

ng8xzdt

I had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad switch on the passenger side. I bought a replacement switch on eBay and it fixed the problem.

Rodney79

Thanks for your help!

bluebug

Can someone confirm that the "key in driver's door" method of closing all windows doesn't work with a bad window switch? I would think this by-passes the switch but now I'm doubting it.

I replaced my driver's side window motor with a used one but I'm still having problems raising the window. I just hear a clicking noise when using the key method or switch. No problems opening the window.

Rodney79

Quick Update - the problem is in the switch on the passenger door. I have tried to re-flow all the solder joints to the connector pins on the circuit board, but that did not correct the problem. I have found, however, that if I disconnect the passenger side controller, I am able to operate the window from the driver's side master switch, so at least I can raise and lower the window. If I keep the passenger side controller connected, I cannot operate the window from either side. I'm going to give the circuit board one last look and try a few more solder joints before I break down and buy a replacement controller/switch assembly.

bobschultz

Rodney, did u have an luck in resoldering the board connections? My issues r similar to what blue bug had.

trips1

I am potentially running into exactly the same problem as both you guys. Earlier i had lubricated the window rails with lithium grease but that did not help. As of now my passenger side window gets stuck down and i hear the click sound when using the switch from passenger or the driver side to bring the window up. Not sure if it is motor, or switch or controller but the information from you both will help..

girishppat

HI! I have the similar problem. I got the new switch to try out for the passenger side window but did not work. Somehow when I try to lock unlock from passenger side of switch it trigers knock on rear left side of door. Any idea why? From driver side master switch for passenger side of window and lock also does not work. I have to check on motor and regulator now. Kee p you updated

jmichael

[QUOTE=

Update 9/12: I disconnected the driver's side controller and reconnected on the passenger side. Using the driver's side switch, the motor works fine in both directions. However, if I move the driver's side switch back to the driver's side door and try to activate the passenger side window motor - no response at all. In my mind this confirms for me that the problem is not the motor, but the passenger side controller/switch. Any other opinions are welcome.[/QUOTE]

My 2000 RX300 started to have problems rolling the passenger side front window down, then it would go up and automatically roll down. Yesterday it would not roll up at all, just made a clicking noise from both the driver side (passenger right) window switch and the passenger side switch. I took the door panel apart and tried to push the window up while pressing the power window button, would not work. I removed the power window switch from the driver side and plugged it into the passenger side and using the driver side button, the window went up. So if you here the clicking noise don't pull the door panel, just try moving the driver side power window switch first to see if that works. Today I will try to see if disconnecting the passenger side and only operating from the driver side panel works. Hope it works as I am having problems finding a used switch, may try to reflow the board.

Lexmus

jmichael,

I had the issue with the drivers side window switch, which has been covered in several threads. The window would move sporadically or not at all. Just touching up the switch solder joints did not work, and they looked fine to me under the microscope before the touch up. The fix was replacing the large relay (NAIS CR2-12V) on the switch circuit board. You can order the relays from Aliexpress. That large relay is also used on the other three window switches based on a youtube video I saw.

Note that it took me seven weeks to receive the part from China.

trips1

Did disconnecting the passenger side switch and just keeping the driver side panel connected worked fine for you?

jmichael

No it didn't work it has to be the large relay Lexmus mentioned. I"m pretty sure that will fix it.

trips1

Please can you point to the youtube video.
Also please can you confirm if this is the part on Aliexpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesal...d12v-nais.html

Lexmus

This is the part http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CR2-1...235941300.html Your link didn't bring up the correct part.


The video I saw doesn't show the part up close but it looks like the part from a distance and I assumed they would use the same relays in all the switches. I would just pop out the switch and check it yourself if you want to be 100% sure. You are going to have to do that if you are going to fix it anyway.

Lexmus

Go to this video.
At around 2:16 there is a quick close up of the relay but it is too out of focus to really read the markings. At around 4:10 it is further away but I think I can see that it is the same part, NAIS CR2-12V.

My RX is out of town so I can't check it myself.