PaulDaisy

Hello fellows, new to the forum here!
I just picked up a 2001 RX300 AWD with 167,000 miles on it. It is in a good shape, showed no codes and passed emissions without any problems. To the best I can tell the truck can use a timing belt idler (high pitch squeal from the timing belt cover, and I don't think it is a water pump). Other small things I noticed are, rubber boots are torn in the lower part on rear struts; the light on the dash where the gear selector is, is out when in D (other gears work). The A/T kickback seems to be a bit sluggish (when I need to accelerate quickly the truck won't downshift until the gas pedal is nearly floored).
Does the transmission "learn" shifting patterns on these trucks? If so can it be reset to re-learn?
What would you suggest to do first for maintenance?
Timing belt is at 40 k miles but I will be replacing the idler, so it will get inspected.
I plan to service the A/T anyway and I want to drop the pan myself to see if there are any signs of metal in there.
I will probably replace the antifreeze and the brake fluid, and probably the power steering fluid too, it is black as tar.
What else? Rear differential fluid?
Thank you!
-P

hypervish

Welcome to Club Lexus!

Yes! The transmission does learn your driving habits. Go ahead and pull the battery cables, this will reset the ECU. Keep them disconnected for 20 mins, and then re-connect.

First, off drain and fill the transmission. Use a Toyota Type-IV compliant fluid. When draining the transmission, make sure to open both drain plugs, as the second one drains the front differential. Which get's filled via the transmission.

Then, change the fluid in the transfer case, and rear differential. Along, with all other fluids you mentioned such as brake fluid, power steering fluid. For the PS use Mobil 1 ATF, it work's wonders!

There is a DIY here for changing the "D" light bulb, but to me it isn't worth the effort.

PaulDaisy

Thank you!
Good to know on the same fill for the A/T and front diff and on the two plugs. I will get a FSM for it, I intend to keep the truck. Will reset the ECU as well ASAP.
I am thinking Amsoil synthetic for PS fluid, after the generic PS fluid gelled up in my truck last winter and spewed out I went with synthetic (a mix of Royal Purple and Redline, there wasn't enough of each in the store but was enough of both of them, so I figured I now have Royal Red

carguy07

Theses cars call for ATF for power steering fluid, so if you want to use amsoil use an ATF equivalent, double check your manual but I think it's supposed to be Dexron II or III

ski2days

the "D" light is a chonic issue. Mine was out for years until We drove 50 miles on rutted washboard back roads in the AZ desert. Seeing that light come on was the highlight of the trip

Also be aware that the radio antenna will probably fail. You can see DIY posts on this issue too.
Usually $29.95 DYI or Several hundred $ at the dealer!

Welcome to the club!

PaulDaisy

Thanks all!
The antenna has already failed and the PO has ordered a replacement, I will be getting that next week.
To my dismay I discovered a flake of metal in the ATF on the dipstick. The 300 is now parked to the minimal use until I get the ATF and filter replaced, and I think I will also have the A/T flushed to try to get as much crud out of it as possible.
After ECU reset (battery cables off for half an hour) the A/T started shifting as I would expect. I feel all shifts, and the way it used to stay in 2nd gear for only few seconds is now gone. The truck behaves a lot more like I would expect it. I wonder how the PO managed to get it into this weird shift pattern?
When I saw the flake in ATF I started having second thoughts about my purchase but then decided, with proper service now the A/T may last a while still. And I felt I rescued the 300 from an evil fate It shifts well and does not seem to slip, although it does make slight whine in 1st gear. I am hoping that new ATF will help this as the old one is nasty. I can't believe people wouldn't service the A/T. I think that the deceptive sticker stating "Never needs service under normal conditions" is on purpose - to make revenue in transmission repairs.
With the A/T service urgent, the D bulb sort of fell to the back burner...
Do you guys have a recommendation on a better brand of aftermarket A/T filter? Hastings? Beck Arnley? Does it matter at all?

hypervish

PLESE DO NOT DO A FLUSH! It will kill the transmission. Only drain and fills. Or, disconnect the cooler lines to get more fluid out.

The slight whine is normal, I've heard it on many RX300's, and Highlanders. It's just the nature of the beast. I believe the whine only happens on minor throttle, like barely pushing it.

As far as the filter goes, you probably have a screen. Meaning you can just clean and put it back in. Now, if the filter has been changed before, it's likely a paper filter, in which case it will need to be replaced.

A lot of us here change ATF frequently, I change mine every 15k miles, usually every 3rd engine oil change.

PaulDaisy

I see! I just talked with the people I usually give my A/T to for service. They said they will replace the filter with a WIX and fill it up, adding a cleaner. After a while replace the ATF again and flush if I want.
So you are saying I should simply do a filter and a refill? That much I can do myself but for a flush I take it in, I don't have a machine.
Yes, the whine is at low RPM when I gently start rolling. It goes away as the 300 shifts up and the speed increases.
Why do you say a flush will kill the transmission?
Do you use synthetic or mineral ATF?

hypervish

A flush generally loosens a lot of debris, and it'll go flowing through the valve body. This isn't good, and for that reason pretty much everyone here on Club Lexus is against doing a flush. A lot of times, the transmission will fail right after a flush. But, a drain and fill is much safer, that isn't to say though that a drain and fill won't kill the transmission either. But, the chances of it doing so are much less. (I'm not trying to scare you, but just putting the information out there.)

Yes, definitely only do a drain and fill. If the fluid is really dirty, then do two drain and fills, about 50 miles apart. And, then on the third drain and fill, drop the pan and clean/or replace the filter.

I use Castrol Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF, it's a synthetic blend. I think it works great in this transmission, and I do recommend that fluid. The OEM fluid is Toyota Type-IV, which is a mineral ATF. Whichever ATF you do plan on using, make sure it says compatible with Toyota-Type IV or else it will likely be the end of the line for the transmission.

PaulDaisy

I hear you. I think what I will do is drain and refill as shown here https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...er-change.html and then after a couple of weeks either flush it to dislodge the rest of the junk, and replace the filter again; or simply drain / fill and replace the filter again. I didn't mean *just* do a flush, I meant in addition to the pan drop / filter replace.
Actually, in that same thread Lexmex said he had a flush done and it worked well. Of course he repalces his filter regularly, so it doesn't get a chance to clog up.
I am willing to replace quite a few $30 filters and $50 ATF fill-ups if it saves me a $2.5k transmission.
Sounds like I will have a fun weekend. And I thought I can finally clear my garage of that auto repair shop look. Just did a timing belt on the Honda Odyssey and finishing front forks and steering bearings on a motorcycle, so here comes more fun...

code58

Completely agree with Hyper. Do NOT do a flush or let anyone else hook a flush machine to your car. Do drain and fill or complete change by removing the return hose and running all new fluid through (my personal preference), but NO flush by machine!

thomas1

I too very much so would NOT do a flush...Please heed our warnings...I Know from personal experience and have personally taken the valve body out of the tranny...Dont do it.

vietalogy

I did a flush at toyota and have no problems.

PaulDaisy

Thank you guys. I won't do a flush. I am in the process of drain / refill right now and will also do the cooler line drain. My intent is to replace the filter and drain again, maybe without the cooler line that time, in about a month after I let the new ATF clean out the transmission for a few hundred miles.
I have never seen ATF as bad as what came out of this 300. My diesel truck engine oil is not this black! How can one abuse their Lexus in such a way.
I can almost hear the 300 sigh a relief from finally belonging to someone who cares

ecrane

My wife passed her 2001 FWD RX 300 with 109,000 miles to our daughter when we bought a 2007 RX 350 to replace it. We had never done anything with the transmission. My daughter had the 120,000 service done at an independent Lexus shop staffed by former techs from the local Lexus dealer. As part of the service the transmission fluid was "flushed/exchanged" by a low pressure machine. This is about the only practical way to get all the fluid replaced. Now over two years and about 28,000 miles later the transmission shows no signs of problems and shifts fine.

It's my opinion this never flush thing may be overblown. No one ever posts on an internet forum how trouble free their transmission has been.

Your mileage as well as others on this forum may vary...