joem07

1999 RX300 147K miles
Recently had Codes P0171 and P0330 come on simultaneously. After researching the forum, I identified the possible issues and attempted to clean the MAF to solve P0171. That didn't work, so I took it to the local shop and had them replace the both O2 sensors to solve P0330 as well as replace MAF.
Driving 2 days and then receive CEL throwing Code 1153 - Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering. I haven't been able to find any info about this with regard to Lexus.

• Is there a possiblity that the shop used a bad or incompatible MAF sensor?
• Any other ideas about why I would be getting a P1153 code immediately after having this work done?
• Just coincidence?

Thanks in advance for anyone's help.

Joe

carguy07

Decent chance that they used aftermarket parts and they are not playing nice, could be intermittent. Find out what they used.

code58

Reads a little different from this site but is probably saying the same thing. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/lexus/ I am curious as to why you replaced both A/f ratio sensors when code P0330 clearly refers to knock sensor malfunction on Bank 2. I can't see how one would have anything to do with the other. As noted by Carguy, DON'T EVER use anything but original parts on A Toyota or Lexus product. They use the finest and the aftermarket parts often don't work at all or don't work well on T/L products.

Was it your choice or theirs to replace the A/F sensors for the P0330 code? If it was theirs, you need to ask them what the reasoning was. DTC are at best a necessary aid in diagnosis, not an end all. It still takes a mechanic with mechanical skills AND experience to use those codes to make a proper diagnosis, or else a large wallet to pay for their INEXPERIENCE!

joem07

Sorry about the misinformation, I've had O2 sensors on my mind after reading through the forums!

They replaced both knock sensors as well as the wire harness, not the A/F ratio sensors.
Let me find out what parts were used. Maybe that will help.
Thanks you both for your quick replies. Let me research this and get back to you to answer these questions.

joem07

The Part number for the MAF sensor is:
Toyota - Denso
22204-21010
197400--200003N24
Will have to check with the shop this week to find out the replacement knock sensors.

I did also notice the Ave. MPG readout was fluctuating wildly, but was in the 12 -15 mpg range after I left the shop. Not sure how accurate that is anyway, but I thought it would settle down after some mileage. The CEL did not come on though until about 20 miles of driving later. I checked it as soon as I got home and got the P1153 code, so that's why I was wondering if somehow the work that I had done was in anyway related to this new code.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Time to change that A/F ratio sensor, bank 2 sensor 1.

code58

With all due respect GS4, I've noticed that your awfully quick to advise people to follow the yellow brick road to the nearest OBD Code parts house. I NEVER take the 1st CEL or generated codes for gospel. They are, at best, a tip that you might want to look in that general, direction. I always cancel the codes after recording and see what comes up 1st. Even then, I start to look around at what else might be responsible for triggering a light that doesn't point to a valid reason for replacing that part. It MAY be a valid failure of a part that the code has recorded, but it may also be nothing (light never comes back on) or something completely different that doesn't even require replacement of a part. There are an endless number of things in that category. If you've been on the forum as long as your post count indicates, you've read plenty of them. My count isn't near as high as yours and I'VE read plenty of them. We're here to help, not put the members in the poor house replacing parts that they may or may not need.

code58

Whenever something like that happens, I'm always a little suspicious that something the mechanics did in working on the car has damaged something else or that something has been left disconnected. It's always possible it is a valid light and code and that it's purely coincidental but I wouldn't simply replace the part until I was SURE it was coincidental and also not something they did. I worked in automotive most of my life and believe me, I've seen PLENTY of damage caused in the shop by the mechanic while working o a car. Often they get away with it by denial or else they know the damage won't show up as failure til a little later and they won't be connected to it. If it were a little easier I'd say switch the front and rear A/F sensors and see if the code follows the sensor. Also, take a careful look to see if there is ANY sign of any disturbance of the wires or sensor.

joem07

Thanks for all the advice.
I've cleared the code and will update here in a few days or sooner if the code returns.
I'll also take Code58's advice and look for signs of disturbance of the wires or sensor. Although I'm more expert at troubleshooting smaller electronic devices, the A/F ratio sensor for Bank 2 Sensor 1 appears to be fairly easy to get to, and having a quality sensor as a replacement is key, right?

code58

NOTHING but Denso! They are the original, the best AND they work. A little birdy told me something about Amazon having terrific deals on OEM parts. A/F sensor # in Denso (their #) is 234-9009 I believe.

joem07

Code58, thanks for the heads-up on the Denso A/F sensors at Amazon.