EvlSmrk

My wife has a 2003 RX300 FWD and I was replacing the driver side bearing when I made a big uh oh. Everything on the knuckle is fine and ready to go but during the reassembly I managed to screw up the threads and nut of the drive shaft. I've ordered a replacement, that will be here in the morning, but I don't want to screw anything up again.

So, how do I remove the old drive shaft and replace it with the new one. I see the bolts on the flange, but simply removing them can't be that simple. Can anybody provide me with any additional instructions, tips, torque specs, etc?

Sorry for being such a noob.

carguy07

Any chance you can save the threads? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

salimshah

I guess when you say replacement, you ordered the last 1/3 section.

The hub must come off (ball joint separated). This will create the room to move the shaft.

Dont be in a hurry to disassemble. Thin ahead and loosen some stuff by applying brakes to hold and counter the the turning force.

Remember to mark each piece, and assemble them back to match the marks when you reassemble.

Some of the clips and bands should not be re-used.

Salim.

EvlSmrk

I wish, all I was able to find seemed to be the entire drive axle. I hope it's not against the rules, and if it is I apologize, but here is what I'll be picking up in the morning.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...617052_0_2160_

EvlSmrk

I've done a lot of searching, most of which wasn't helpful. The only thing I know for certain about how to remove the driver side front drive shaft is to drain the ATF. Anybody else have any tips regarding the other procedures?

EvlSmrk

Wow! That was dirt freakin' simple. Off to get the replacement shaft axel and some ATF.

hypervish

Glad to hear you got it off!

Make sure to get Toyota Type-IV compatible ATF.

salimshah

It seems like you ordered only 1 out of 3 segments. If so there will be more disassembly.. It would be nice (and lot more expensive) if the whole shaft is being replaced.

Check for wear on the CV joints and condition of the boots.

Remember to replace the snap ring that goes into the transmission. Last time I did this work on accord, I replaced the oil seal as well.

Oh use electrical tape to protect the hub threads.

When the time comes to re-insert the shaft in the transmission, lube the end with ATF and keep the snap ring open end towards the bottom (facing ground).

Do not pt the weight of the vehicle on the wheel without the drive shaft in it . [keep it on jacks].

Salim

carguy07

Na, that's the whole axle, it's the only way they sell them there.

salimshah

Tie-rod 36 lb-ft
ABS Sensor 71 in-lb <= INCH
suspension arm to ball joint 94 lb-ft
Center Nut 217 lb-ft

recommended replacement items:
All snap-ring, lock pins, and dust deflectors/covers.

If you did not drain the transmission and pulled out the shaft, try adding about 1/4~1/2 qt to rinse out any contaminants.

* If you replace the oil-seal, coat the new one lip with MP grease and seat it flush with the lip.

Salim

EvlSmrk

Thanks guys. Can anybody tell me the torque required for the 6 bolts that hold the CV axel to the transmission case?

salimshah

??? the shaft snaps into the transmission due to the clip on the end of the shaft. The transmission has oil seal through which the shaft enters the transmission. One has to tug on the shaft to release the clip. Since the shaft slides in and out one has to apply leverage on the in-board shaft.


The shaft is in section and has a coupling with 6 bolts. These are speced at 46 lb-ft. Remember face them evenly and then toque evenly.

Salim

EvlSmrk

Roger that. Thank you. I jammed the assembly I had into the mating face, then placed the 6 bolts in loosely, then faced them evenly, and torqued to 45 ft-lbs while waiting on a response. I'm going to call it good for now. I jacked up the passenger side and spun the tire to make sure the driver side hub would also spin, and to me any way, indicate a connection. Is there a more official or accurate way to check to make sure that the axel seated properly with the adjoining shaft?

Of course, the axel assembly I ordered didn't include the shaft nut, despite what the rep on the phone said at AZ when I placed the order. The woman will continue to be without vehicle till the nut comes in on Tuesday.

salimshah

It seems every thing is fine.

The check is that you pull on the in-board shaft after the clip snaps in. Te shaft should not come out with a simple pull by hand.

Salim

EvlSmrk

Everything went back together nicely. Torqued everything to spec and am just waiting on the axle shaft nut. Once that's on, all that's left is the wheel and the woman will be back on the road. Thanks for all of your help guys.