Need advice 1999 RX300
03-03-12, 10:22 PM
#1
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Need advice 1999 RX300
Hi all,
Last week I purchased 1999 RX300. It was leaking coolant at two places. 1st front freeze plug and 2nd is the damn hose underneath the intake. So today I spent all evening taking off the intake manifold with all the pains that go with that. Now that it is off I'm planning on replacing the the coolant hose (purpose of this project) and spark plugs. all 6 injectors look like they need cleaning. So my 2 questions are: while everything is off and accessible what do you guys recommend that I should replace/change along with what i already planned? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean intake airways and other exposed parts of the engine that are accessible right now?
Thanks you in advance.
V
Last week I purchased 1999 RX300. It was leaking coolant at two places. 1st front freeze plug and 2nd is the damn hose underneath the intake. So today I spent all evening taking off the intake manifold with all the pains that go with that. Now that it is off I'm planning on replacing the the coolant hose (purpose of this project) and spark plugs. all 6 injectors look like they need cleaning. So my 2 questions are: while everything is off and accessible what do you guys recommend that I should replace/change along with what i already planned? What kind of cleaner should I use to clean intake airways and other exposed parts of the engine that are accessible right now?
Thanks you in advance.
V
03-04-12, 01:07 AM
#2
This by no means complete but I would suggest putting the injectors back in as they are and running a couple of tanks of fuel through using "Techron Super concentrate" to clean the injectors. It is one of the finest cleaners made and will do a better job on the car than a cleaner off the car. Make sure and use the Super concentrate, or at the very least the fuel injector cleaner. The super concentrate is the much more expensive one because it is highly concentrated, but the other will work also, just takes a few days to do the job that the super concentrate does in a couple of minutes. Don't worry about damage because it's so concentrated, it only harms the deposits, nothing else.
Also, make sure you use "Throttle body cleaner", NOT carb cleaner!!! There is very specific reasons why they have so many different products today and often if you use something that would have been fine to use in less sophisticated days, you may now cost yourself a bunch of money because of the damage done. Trust me!
I would also suggest changing ALL freeze plugs at the same time, NOT JUST THOSE LEAKING! If a couple of them are rusted out, do you think the others didn't figure out how to rust?
They are probably the leakers next week or next month. I am always concerned when I hear of leaking freeze plugs in this day and age. IF the LONG LIFE anti-freeze was changed as needed (most are good for 100-150K mi.) you should NEVER in the life of the vehicle EVER have any rust develop on the freeze plugs, EVER! My second concern is with the all aluminum engine as you have in your RX, the steel head gaskets will begine to rust and leak and the worst news of all, aluminum depends on the anti-corrosives in the coolant even more than the steel. I have seen many aluminum engines corrode through at the head to block area and you have a large piece of scrap aluminum. I hope this is not your case but people simply don't maintain cars they way they should (PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE) and it becomes VERY EXPENSIVE with aluminum parts.
Also, make sure you use "Throttle body cleaner", NOT carb cleaner!!! There is very specific reasons why they have so many different products today and often if you use something that would have been fine to use in less sophisticated days, you may now cost yourself a bunch of money because of the damage done. Trust me!
I would also suggest changing ALL freeze plugs at the same time, NOT JUST THOSE LEAKING! If a couple of them are rusted out, do you think the others didn't figure out how to rust?
They are probably the leakers next week or next month. I am always concerned when I hear of leaking freeze plugs in this day and age. IF the LONG LIFE anti-freeze was changed as needed (most are good for 100-150K mi.) you should NEVER in the life of the vehicle EVER have any rust develop on the freeze plugs, EVER! My second concern is with the all aluminum engine as you have in your RX, the steel head gaskets will begine to rust and leak and the worst news of all, aluminum depends on the anti-corrosives in the coolant even more than the steel. I have seen many aluminum engines corrode through at the head to block area and you have a large piece of scrap aluminum. I hope this is not your case but people simply don't maintain cars they way they should (PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE) and it becomes VERY EXPENSIVE with aluminum parts.
03-04-12, 05:58 AM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Welcome to Club Lexus!
How are the valve cover gaskets? I suggest replacing them for two reasons; one being that you just purchased the car, and it's a good idea to make sure it doesn't have sludge, second being that it will eventually start leaking, and you might as well change it since you are in there.
Also change the PCV valve.
How are the valve cover gaskets? I suggest replacing them for two reasons; one being that you just purchased the car, and it's a good idea to make sure it doesn't have sludge, second being that it will eventually start leaking, and you might as well change it since you are in there.
Also change the PCV valve.
03-04-12, 07:41 AM
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Thanks for your help guys.
I will change both valve cover gaskets (rear one already leaking). Already swapped PCV valve.
code58, thank you for naming specific brands and details - that's exactly what i was hoping for w/ injectors. I was misleading in saying that freeze plugs leak - i don't even know their location at this point. What I should of said was that the front engine drain plug was leaking. However, previous owner did use green coolant instead of Toyota's red one. I want to change that and go with the recommended one.
Thank you for your inputs.
I will change both valve cover gaskets (rear one already leaking). Already swapped PCV valve.
code58, thank you for naming specific brands and details - that's exactly what i was hoping for w/ injectors. I was misleading in saying that freeze plugs leak - i don't even know their location at this point. What I should of said was that the front engine drain plug was leaking. However, previous owner did use green coolant instead of Toyota's red one. I want to change that and go with the recommended one.
Thank you for your inputs.
03-04-12, 04:05 PM
#5
I'm personally glad that it WASN'T the freeze plugs. I did not feel good about freeze plugs going out on an aluminum engine for the aforementioned reasons.
I would personally remove the drain plug (is it an actual plug or is it the valve that Toyota usually uses?) and clean it up good IF it is the valve type. Meaning open and close with maybe a shot of WD-40 or something similar to clean and lube it inside to seat better.
I wish people wouldn't think cheap on something like a Lexus by using "green" anti-freeze. You save $20. or $30. on a coolant change which means about 1 cent a day over the life of the coolant. Penny wise and pound foolish! NO green coolant is long life to my knowledge (TRUE long life) When I changed the original coolant in my DIL's 99RX at 97k mi. it looked absolutely brand new! There was not even a trace of sediment in the bottom of the clear jugs I put the old coolant in so I gave it to my son to top off with. (T/L are notorious for "using" a trace as time goes on. never a trace of leak, just disappears) Even my wife's '11 Camry has gone down about 1-1/2 cups in the o-flow bottle in the 19 months we've owned it.
The OEM Red Toyota anti-freeze (which yours calls for) is expensive, but well worth the cost because of the protection it provides. Many people don't realize that it is completely different than anything you can buy in the parts store. Because of the base, it doesn't wear the W/P seals and other "wear parts" in the cooling system like regular anti-freeze. T/L didn't buy someone elses off the shelf, they formulated it, and there is nothing like it! Do remember that the "Red" gets mixed 50/50 with distilled water. The later ELL (extra long-life) (pink) comes pre-mixed for close to the same amount of money, so be glad you use the "Red".
You can take my recommendation on injection cleaning to the bank. I even used the "Injector cleaner" (less concentrated) in my wife's '02 Camry and after 1 tank pulled the plugs and could easily see where it was removing the carbon from the top of the pistons. Most powerful is "Techron Concentrate Plus- Fuel System Cleaner (complete system) and less concentrated is called "Techron Injector cleaner". Either will work.
I would personally remove the drain plug (is it an actual plug or is it the valve that Toyota usually uses?) and clean it up good IF it is the valve type. Meaning open and close with maybe a shot of WD-40 or something similar to clean and lube it inside to seat better.
I wish people wouldn't think cheap on something like a Lexus by using "green" anti-freeze. You save $20. or $30. on a coolant change which means about 1 cent a day over the life of the coolant. Penny wise and pound foolish! NO green coolant is long life to my knowledge (TRUE long life) When I changed the original coolant in my DIL's 99RX at 97k mi. it looked absolutely brand new! There was not even a trace of sediment in the bottom of the clear jugs I put the old coolant in so I gave it to my son to top off with. (T/L are notorious for "using" a trace as time goes on. never a trace of leak, just disappears) Even my wife's '11 Camry has gone down about 1-1/2 cups in the o-flow bottle in the 19 months we've owned it.
The OEM Red Toyota anti-freeze (which yours calls for) is expensive, but well worth the cost because of the protection it provides. Many people don't realize that it is completely different than anything you can buy in the parts store. Because of the base, it doesn't wear the W/P seals and other "wear parts" in the cooling system like regular anti-freeze. T/L didn't buy someone elses off the shelf, they formulated it, and there is nothing like it! Do remember that the "Red" gets mixed 50/50 with distilled water. The later ELL (extra long-life) (pink) comes pre-mixed for close to the same amount of money, so be glad you use the "Red".
You can take my recommendation on injection cleaning to the bank. I even used the "Injector cleaner" (less concentrated) in my wife's '02 Camry and after 1 tank pulled the plugs and could easily see where it was removing the carbon from the top of the pistons. Most powerful is "Techron Concentrate Plus- Fuel System Cleaner (complete system) and less concentrated is called "Techron Injector cleaner". Either will work.
03-04-12, 11:51 PM
#7
That makes it a really great deal at $6.50 for a 20 gal. treatment. Almost impossible to beat. That stuff will clear a sticky injector before you get completely around the block! For those that use one of the fuels that use it as a regular additive, it's not even necessary to use once you know your system is clean because the small amount the oil company adds will keep it clean. Terrific product (and NO, I have absolutely nothing to do with the company), am just always amazed when a product does ALL that it claims!
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03-17-12, 08:48 PM
#9
Pole Position
Is that a waterjacket inspection plate....I know my car was leaking coolent but it was from the intake manifold gasket on the left side of your picture....By the way make sure you get The toyota gasket former for that piece, it may not have a gasket but use RTV sealant.
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