RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

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Old 03-05-12, 12:38 AM
  #31  
code58
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Originally Posted by jbl-1985
My experience with the RX300 is that a strait drain and fill should be right around 4 quarts, maybe a little more tha 4 quarts, but yes, it is that simple. Drain it out and fill it back up.

There are other methods to get the remaining fluid out of the other nooks and crannys in the transmission, but a drain and fill is that simple.

Keep in mind that the transmission holds a total of approximately 9 quarts of fluid, and what you are doing when you do a drain and fill is basically draining what is in the pan only. In order to get a more thorough "change out of the fluid" if you will, one typically would do drain and fill, and drive 100 miles or so, and then do another drain and fill then. That method gets most of the fluid in the trans refreshed, and it is the easiest to do as well.
I respect JBL's opinion, just that I'm in disagreement with it. I have always been meticulous about maintenance on ANY vehicle I've owned and can't stand putting new fluid in with old. I have, for most of my life, pulled the pan and cleaned thoroughly, replaced the gasket and pan (and filter if paper or synthetic or washed thoroughly if screen), then filled with fluid to the full on stick. I then remove the return line to the trans and install a clear hose to run to a jug (should be at least 5 qt.). I have someone run it till the 1st. sign of air and immediately shut off. Repeat untill bright pink (red) fluid comes through. It should take about 12 qts. of fluid to completely change ALL fluid. I make sure and top it off once I have re-connected the return line, and I'm done! All fluid has been changed at ONE time with NO further work for at least 50K mi. minimum. With the cost of fuel today (at least in Ca.) I figure that ONE 100 mile drive before the second drain and fill (remember, you've got at least one more to go) will cost you a minimum of $25. in fuel and maybe more, to say nothing of a couple hours of time to do the drive. I can do the complete procedure once the clean pan is bolted back up, in about 20 min. and I am FINISHED, with ALL new fluid, not mixed mud and clean fluid. I curse the day that manufacturers saved 50 cents a car by eliminating the TQ drain plug and caused so much additional work and expense.
Old 03-05-12, 12:58 AM
  #32  
code58
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Originally Posted by BiggerOkie
Yes I did. Like I posted, my OCD kicked in and we tried EVERYTHING!!! Thank you for the help tho......any more suggestions?
My son tried many times to program the HL on his wife's RX without success. I told him about the sticky here and he had it programmed in no time. I believe it was timing in how long you had to hold certain buttons to get it to read YOUR commands. Once he was patient, the problem disappeared. He had a common door opener used by builders that was a little less than 10 years old. It worked fine with that and when I installed a new Chamberlain belt drive opener about a month ago (build date was end of '11) it worked just fine with that also. I'm thinking it still might be that ADD, rather than OCD, that maybe you just need to take a deep breath and put in L rather than OD.
Old 03-05-12, 08:43 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by code58
My son tried many times to program the HL on his wife's RX without success. I told him about the sticky here and he had it programmed in no time. I believe it was timing in how long you had to hold certain buttons to get it to read YOUR commands. Once he was patient, the problem disappeared. He had a common door opener used by builders that was a little less than 10 years old. It worked fine with that and when I installed a new Chamberlain belt drive opener about a month ago (build date was end of '11) it worked just fine with that also. I'm thinking it still might be that ADD, rather than OCD, that maybe you just need to take a deep breath and put in L rather than OD.



Thanks for the help(I think). That was pretty funny. Lol so what was your advice again? You don't understand, short of spending the night in the rx, I've spent more time trying to program it than my wife has driving it
Old 03-05-12, 09:12 AM
  #34  
BiggerOkie
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Now I was informed by my wife that 3 lights are on: VSC, Trac On and engine light. Is she supposed to be putting premium gas in the RX? I've checked the cap
Old 03-05-12, 10:17 AM
  #35  
jbl-1985
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As long as you are putting at least 87 octane into your RX I don't think this in and of itself would cause the light combination you describe. I think the best thing to do at this point is to hook up a code reader to the car, or go to an auto parts store that will read the error codes for you and post them here. You could have gotten some really bad gas but that's unlikely I think.

Last edited by jbl-1985; 03-05-12 at 10:26 AM. Reason: Wrong info.
Old 03-05-12, 10:30 AM
  #36  
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Ok. I will do that. Ty. Very much appreciated
Old 03-05-12, 02:33 PM
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Ok....codes are P0174 TOO LEAN(is what O'reilly code said) and other code is P1150(O'reilly guy said a/f circuit bank 2). Is this the maf? Also he said the too lean might be plugs which are getting changed tomorrow.

While I'm on here, it's going in the shop tomorrow for the following:

Timing belt kit
Water pump
NGK iriduim plugs
Both serpentine belts
Cam seal
Crank seal
Thermostat
Upper and lower hose
TRANS drain and fill (3 times)

All this for $1150. Is this a good price? Toyota want $1300 JUST for timing belt, water pump and plugs.
Old 03-05-12, 03:44 PM
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jbl-1985
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P1150 is an 02 sensor (not the MAF), I believe it's the one right behind the radiator, fairly accessible. P0174 according to my reference relates to Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2.

There are folks here who have more experience than me on these sorts of diagnosis but this should get you started. Also, If you are taking her in for all of this work tomorrow, mention the two codes you got you may be able to swing a deal based on the volume of stuff you are getting done,
Old 03-06-12, 12:53 AM
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code58
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BO, Please take no offense, I shorten the screen name whenever I can to save typing. If you have time to a search on the combination of those 3 you'll find that there are a multitude of things that can trigger that combination that MAY or MAY NOT have anything to do with what the codes convert to. It is a very common combination. I have suggested many times and will again that I NEVER take the 1st. CEL and the resultant codes as Gospel. PERIOD! There are times that the initial CEL and resultant code (s) may point to the precise problem, many times not even close. Hook up the scanner, record the DTC's and then cancel the codes and light out. Drive it and IF the light comes on again, hook the scanner up and record whatever code you get. Cancel it again and IF it comes on again, record the code and then start to take the code seriously. I have many times read of as many as 7-9 codes coming up when read. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know you don't chase your tail on that many codes, the chances of all being correct is far less than being hit by an asteroid. 3rd times a charm and if the SAME code keeps coming up 1st., it likely means something. It gets complex a lot of times and takes someone with matter between the ears to sort it out. I liken DTC's to a man standing out in a field pointing in a certain direction. He doesn't have a laser on the end of his hand, he has a finger. He's pointing you in a direction, but not necessarily exactly to the problem, not by a long ways. A search of that 3 code combination will give you some reading to do and we'll present you with your degree when you're done, because you'll have earned it!

BTW, NO, you do NOT need to use premium fuel. It requires at least 87 oct. and because the knock sensors adjust the timing for the fuel you're using, it should run perfectly fine on that. My DIL's has for over 160K mi. anyway. Never had a drop of anything but 87 and it runs like a sewing machine.
Old 03-06-12, 01:06 AM
  #40  
code58
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Originally Posted by BiggerOkie


Thanks for the help(I think). That was pretty funny. Lol so what was your advice again? You don't understand, short of spending the night in the rx, I've spent more time trying to program it than my wife has driving it
BO, I hope you didn't take offense at what I wrote. I joke around a lot and maybe sometimes too much with people I don't really know. The whole family (extended) is that way and I would hate to have it any other way. My wife is even worse. When I met and was dating her I found out in a hurry that her whole family was that way (well, except her mother) and if you DIDN'T have a sense of humor (able to laugh at yourself) you weren't gonna last long. We got along fine and after a lifetime together, I still say "learn to laugh at yourself, because if you don't, somebody'll do it for you!"
I wouldn't have it any other way! I'm not sure what to say, I'll ask my son to come program it for you (well, at least the next time he's in Ok.) Seems some programming nerd set up the program and made it a little more complicated than it needed to be.
Old 03-06-12, 02:19 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by code58
BO, I hope you didn't take offense at what I wrote. I joke around a lot and maybe sometimes too much with people I don't really know. The whole family (extended) is that way and I would hate to have it any other way. My wife is even worse. When I met and was dating her I found out in a hurry that her whole family was that way (well, except her mother) and if you DIDN'T have a sense of humor (able to laugh at yourself) you weren't gonna last long. We got along fine and after a lifetime together, I still say "learn to laugh at yourself, because if you don't, somebody'll do it for you!"
I wouldn't have it any other way! I'm not sure what to say, I'll ask my son to come program it for you (well, at least the next time he's in Ok.) Seems some programming nerd set up the program and made it a little more complicated than it needed to be.
Code58, it's all good. I was not offended at all seriously. I make fun of myself at work ALL the time. I work with a crew of 14 guys and see them more than my own family. We all have thick skin. Seriously, it's all good. Never batted an eye at it! (that's why I have "bigger okie" as screen name-6'4" 290lbs, I don't think they would have liked lard azz as my screen name!)

So what your saying is reset them and see what keeps coming in?

So, what do you mean "have son program it for me"?

On almost every reply I thank all the guys on this forum. The knowledge and experience is overwhelming. Thank you again!
Old 03-06-12, 02:49 PM
  #42  
code58
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Yep, that is my own experience and also from reading 100's of pages of discussion on DTC's. The 1st. read MAY be accurate. There at least is a better chance of it if you only have one code come up and an even better chance if it is accompanied by a pending code that is the same code. It's just that people think code readers and scanners have a human brain that is superiour to theirs so thay can automatically take that to the bank. That is a mistake of epic proportions. That's the reason I ALWAYS suggest, in this day and age, that everyone who drives a vehicle should at least have (own) a decent code reader. Even if you don't or can't work on your own car, the ability to diagnose and keep from being ripped of by the mechanic is worth FAR more than the reader cost. You can actually buy a very usable one for $50. or less and trust me, a mechanic can waste much more than that in a heartbeat if you are totally in the dark. It's not just dishonest mechanics, it's honest ones that are simply not competent. I'vr rarely ever heard of a mechanic that diagnosed a problem, been paid to fix it, and it didn't, taking the parts back off and cancelling the bill. They will always tell you you needed that part but now you have another problem. That's not "new problem", that's "incompetence and dishonesty". That CR or scanner DOESN'T have a human brain and you better hope you're dealing with a mechanic THAT DOES!
The comment about my son programming the HL for you was also pretty much in jest since he's in Ca. & you're in Ok. He's an Electrical Engineer and works for an industrial software company, so he's solving customers problems all the time, yet he was unsuccessful at programming it originally. His wife used the remote all the time until I passed the program link to him, reminding him that thieves steal the remote from the visor, the address from the glove box reg. and then go hit your house in the daytime when everyone is gone, without even the need of a key. With the use of the HL, they have to steal the car and drive it to your house. Much harder. From what I remember one of the problems was he hadn't cleared prior codes and then wasn't holding the buttoms the prescribed amount of time. When following the posted sticky directions, it worked perfectly for him.
Do your LED lights light up when you press the (HL) buttons?

Thanks for having a sense of humor, I honestly don't know how the people make it through life who have none!
Old 03-06-12, 03:11 PM
  #43  
BiggerOkie
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Lol, electrical engineer! I see!!! Well I make electricity so if I'm ever in CA I'll drop some by!

Yes, the LED's come on to program it but we NEVER have got the fast blinking LED indicating it is programmed.
Old 03-06-12, 03:17 PM
  #44  
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Good to see you guys having a healthy and productive exchange of information. It proves you can disagree and joke around with someone without being obnoxious and disrespectful. Cheers.
Old 03-06-12, 03:26 PM
  #45  
BiggerOkie
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Where are the posted sticky instructions? I've read manual and home link website


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