01 RX 300 Air fuel sensor code p1135, p1155
03-08-13, 06:41 PM
#62
The Amazon link for the sensor. Will that one work in B2S1? I've already replaced the one near the firewall, but after reading this exhaustive thread, I know that P1155 means "change the front sensor".
03-08-13, 08:24 PM
#63
03-09-13, 05:28 AM
#64
Thanks. Just ordered it.
By the way, I have the 2001 RX300 Factory Repair Manual on CD that I bought several years ago. It lists P1155's error message correctly!
By the way, I have the 2001 RX300 Factory Repair Manual on CD that I bought several years ago. It lists P1155's error message correctly!
Last edited by HadYurPhil; 03-09-13 at 07:28 AM.
06-16-13, 08:46 PM
#68
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Maybe why after market O2 Sensors won't work
Just my nickel about this thread.
I went through what most of you mentioned also that stupid error as to where the real bad sensor is located due bad info in the DTC.
The bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors are the same. The bank 1 sensor 2 cat is different; it has a different plug on it.
I installed after market o2 sensors and got the same problems.
I took a "good" OEM sensor and measured the ohm on the heater circuit; the two wires the same color and here is what I found.
Some where I read the manufacturer's specs for ohms is .4-1.4 range...
These work fine and won't throw an error code.
The after market sensor testing the heater circuit I have found the ohms range allot, from 2.6 to 8.9 ohms.. These always threw a error heater P1135 code..
I'd speculate any sensor that is with in the .4-1.4 ohms range works and shouldn't throw a code.
The thing is the after market O2 sensor are working, but are throwing the code.
I used an ob2 blue tooth adapter with the free version of Torque - an android app on my phone.
It monitors the engine functions and more.
The after market sensor was showing a 99.2% efficiency; I also watched the sensor voltage go up and down within specs etc..
The engine was shown running in closed loop indicating again the after market o2 sensors are working despite the code.
I would speculate IF LEXUS/Toyota had enter a little wider ohm range there wouldn't be this problem; BUT again I speculate again they may have had a thought to have the owners being required to return to the dealer for repair or have to purchase OEM only part..
I know there are many forums where people are very smart and have tables to re-flash their ECM's..
One is a Camaro/Firebird and others forums.
It is unfortunate no one here is or can do that?
Or the ECM is used in other Toyota's and Lexus in the "performance" forum here?
I went through what most of you mentioned also that stupid error as to where the real bad sensor is located due bad info in the DTC.
The bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors are the same. The bank 1 sensor 2 cat is different; it has a different plug on it.
I installed after market o2 sensors and got the same problems.
I took a "good" OEM sensor and measured the ohm on the heater circuit; the two wires the same color and here is what I found.
Some where I read the manufacturer's specs for ohms is .4-1.4 range...
These work fine and won't throw an error code.
The after market sensor testing the heater circuit I have found the ohms range allot, from 2.6 to 8.9 ohms.. These always threw a error heater P1135 code..
I'd speculate any sensor that is with in the .4-1.4 ohms range works and shouldn't throw a code.
The thing is the after market O2 sensor are working, but are throwing the code.
I used an ob2 blue tooth adapter with the free version of Torque - an android app on my phone.
It monitors the engine functions and more.
The after market sensor was showing a 99.2% efficiency; I also watched the sensor voltage go up and down within specs etc..
The engine was shown running in closed loop indicating again the after market o2 sensors are working despite the code.
I would speculate IF LEXUS/Toyota had enter a little wider ohm range there wouldn't be this problem; BUT again I speculate again they may have had a thought to have the owners being required to return to the dealer for repair or have to purchase OEM only part..
I know there are many forums where people are very smart and have tables to re-flash their ECM's..
One is a Camaro/Firebird and others forums.
It is unfortunate no one here is or can do that?
Or the ECM is used in other Toyota's and Lexus in the "performance" forum here?
06-17-13, 05:49 AM
#69
Super Moderator
Just my nickel about this thread.
I went through what most of you mentioned also that stupid error as to where the real bad sensor is located due bad info in the DTC.
The bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors are the same. The bank 1 sensor 2 cat is different; it has a different plug on it.
I installed after market o2 sensors and got the same problems.
I took a "good" OEM sensor and measured the ohm on the heater circuit; the two wires the same color and here is what I found.
Some where I read the manufacturer's specs for ohms is .4-1.4 range...
These work fine and won't throw an error code.
The after market sensor testing the heater circuit I have found the ohms range allot, from 2.6 to 8.9 ohms.. These always threw a error heater P1135 code..
I'd speculate any sensor that is with in the .4-1.4 ohms range works and shouldn't throw a code.
The thing is the after market O2 sensor are working, but are throwing the code.
I used an ob2 blue tooth adapter with the free version of Torque - an android app on my phone.
It monitors the engine functions and more.
The after market sensor was showing a 99.2% efficiency; I also watched the sensor voltage go up and down within specs etc..
The engine was shown running in closed loop indicating again the after market o2 sensors are working despite the code.
I would speculate IF LEXUS/Toyota had enter a little wider ohm range there wouldn't be this problem; BUT again I speculate again they may have had a thought to have the owners being required to return to the dealer for repair or have to purchase OEM only part..
I know there are many forums where people are very smart and have tables to re-flash their ECM's..
One is a Camaro/Firebird and others forums.
It is unfortunate no one here is or can do that?
Or the ECM is used in other Toyota's and Lexus in the "performance" forum here?
I went through what most of you mentioned also that stupid error as to where the real bad sensor is located due bad info in the DTC.
The bank 1 and Bank 2 sensors are the same. The bank 1 sensor 2 cat is different; it has a different plug on it.
I installed after market o2 sensors and got the same problems.
I took a "good" OEM sensor and measured the ohm on the heater circuit; the two wires the same color and here is what I found.
Some where I read the manufacturer's specs for ohms is .4-1.4 range...
These work fine and won't throw an error code.
The after market sensor testing the heater circuit I have found the ohms range allot, from 2.6 to 8.9 ohms.. These always threw a error heater P1135 code..
I'd speculate any sensor that is with in the .4-1.4 ohms range works and shouldn't throw a code.
The thing is the after market O2 sensor are working, but are throwing the code.
I used an ob2 blue tooth adapter with the free version of Torque - an android app on my phone.
It monitors the engine functions and more.
The after market sensor was showing a 99.2% efficiency; I also watched the sensor voltage go up and down within specs etc..
The engine was shown running in closed loop indicating again the after market o2 sensors are working despite the code.
I would speculate IF LEXUS/Toyota had enter a little wider ohm range there wouldn't be this problem; BUT again I speculate again they may have had a thought to have the owners being required to return to the dealer for repair or have to purchase OEM only part..
I know there are many forums where people are very smart and have tables to re-flash their ECM's..
One is a Camaro/Firebird and others forums.
It is unfortunate no one here is or can do that?
Or the ECM is used in other Toyota's and Lexus in the "performance" forum here?
We've never had good luck with the aftermarket sensors in this forum. That's one area this vehicle is really finicky with.
As far as the ECMs, the Toyota/Lexus ECM boards are among the most difficult to crack (but not impossible) with engine management systems. I've toyed with this idea over the years, but never found the time much less the money to play with doing this, but it doesn't mean that I won't ever try this.
12-22-14, 12:19 PM
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Still can't clear codes
I'm beat.... 2001 RX300 157K - used all denso sensors. Okay I have read and read and read.. still getting 1135 and 1155 code along with the cel vsc trac off lights. i was getting more codes but replaced post cat converter 02 sensor and cleared them. now the 1135 and 1155 still remain. replaced the forward and rear a/f sensor ( denso parts ) I have checked the vacuum lines on air filter ( unless i am not looking in the right place ) , no problem found, removed gas cap, no resolution. Removed the battery for 30 min and the fuses as suggested in many of the posts. Clearing the codes with code reader after each step.... Searched and read the VSC CEL TRAC OFF forums and still have no clue where to go next. On the plus side, fuel mileage has improved, car runs smooth, good acceleration, but can't get past these horror codes. Not a mechanic, but have tried to follow and do the things as suggested on these forums.. Just Tired..... any help is appreciated..
Last edited by lnew1213; 12-22-14 at 12:41 PM.
12-22-14, 04:17 PM
#71
I'm beat.... 2001 RX300 157K - used all denso sensors. Okay I have read and read and read.. still getting 1135 and 1155 code along with the cel vsc trac off lights. i was getting more codes but replaced post cat converter 02 sensor and cleared them. now the 1135 and 1155 still remain. replaced the forward and rear a/f sensor ( denso parts ) I have checked the vacuum lines on air filter ( unless i am not looking in the right place ) , no problem found, removed gas cap, no resolution. Removed the battery for 30 min and the fuses as suggested in many of the posts. Clearing the codes with code reader after each step.... Searched and read the VSC CEL TRAC OFF forums and still have no clue where to go next. On the plus side, fuel mileage has improved, car runs smooth, good acceleration, but can't get past these horror codes. Not a mechanic, but have tried to follow and do the things as suggested on these forums.. Just Tired..... any help is appreciated..
12-23-14, 08:08 AM
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Resolved - P1135 & P1155. I would like to just take a moment to say thanks for all the valuable information found in these forums. Issue resolution was as simple as a FUSE. Read on one of the posts somewhere that there is a A/F Heater fuse 25A located on the right side of the fuse box found on the drivers side under the hood. I had checked all others and thought I had checked this one. I apparently did not as it had been put in the wrong ( blank slot ) by the previous owner. I've only had the car a few months and it came on soon after I had purchased. Maybe it wasn't all the way seated and bounced out... Unfortunately I had replaced all 3 sensors / both A/F Sensors and the 02 Sensor. No harm no foul I guess. I did get improved fuel mileage after changing them out. Any way, put the fuse back in the correct slot and both the 1135 & 1155 codes cleared. Hears to hoping they stay gone. Glad is was not an exhaust manifold leak. This also cleared my CEL, VSC, TRAC OFF lights as well. Drove locally for an hour and codes have not come back.
08-30-17, 08:23 PM
#74
Hey I just want to chime in that I landed on this post due to having the same triad if code p1135, CEL on, with VSC and Trac-off at the dashboard (2001 RX300). Reading all posts carefully and focusing on Code58's two posts above, I confidently bought the B1S1 Denso O2 sensor, part # 234-9009. I installed this on the bank 1 header pipe, disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, reconnected, and problem solved! All lights are out. And maybe it's my imagination but it seems to run better. I just want to reinforce that THIS WORKED INSTANTLY. Thanks again to code58 including his pointing out the Toyota/Lexus error in misrepresenting the correct fix as to which sensor is at fault with code p1155 -- Not my code problem but his post infers that p1135 points to B1S1.
A few comments on the new O2 sensor install. I bought Denso sensor on Amazon Prime for $105, whereas the local parts store price was going to be $185. Next, the replacement Denso sensor had a little longer wire lead than my original , maybe by 3 or 4 inches. No biggee. The hardest part was getting the old sensor wire plug disconnected from the socket up by the bank 1 cylinder head. I studied the new plug to figure out where the magic button was...... And determined it was on the outer base of the receiving socket. It has to be pushed down, not lifted, and it is very hard plastic. It was killing my fingers to try and push that button .... I just couldn't do it firmly enough. My final successful solution to getting the socket release button depressed was to use a 30" screwdriver as a lever (from directly underneath, car high up on jackstands), use the firewall as a fulcrum and put enough pressure on the button/tab while applying traction on the plug. Once I got it all lined up it took 10 seconds (after the 30 minutes of trying other stuff).
A few comments on the new O2 sensor install. I bought Denso sensor on Amazon Prime for $105, whereas the local parts store price was going to be $185. Next, the replacement Denso sensor had a little longer wire lead than my original , maybe by 3 or 4 inches. No biggee. The hardest part was getting the old sensor wire plug disconnected from the socket up by the bank 1 cylinder head. I studied the new plug to figure out where the magic button was...... And determined it was on the outer base of the receiving socket. It has to be pushed down, not lifted, and it is very hard plastic. It was killing my fingers to try and push that button .... I just couldn't do it firmly enough. My final successful solution to getting the socket release button depressed was to use a 30" screwdriver as a lever (from directly underneath, car high up on jackstands), use the firewall as a fulcrum and put enough pressure on the button/tab while applying traction on the plug. Once I got it all lined up it took 10 seconds (after the 30 minutes of trying other stuff).
Last edited by bandpmoore; 08-30-17 at 08:28 PM.
01-31-18, 08:46 AM
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Similar Issues - Please help - Code 1153 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Hey Y'all. I just bought a used 2002 Lexus RX300 from a doctor who has had it since it was brand new. It has 130k miles on it. He said the check engine light was on and provided me with the information stating it was an Upstream Fuel Sensor Code 1153 Bank 2 Sensor 1. Said this has to do with Emissions and since we live in an area where it isn't needed for Registration, it was never important to him. He has all of the records for everything he has ever done on this car - it truly is immaculate and well kept for the year. Anyway, I've literally had the car for 2 days and while I was driving yesterday, the VSC light came on. I looked in the user manual and it looks like this has to do with skid control or something like that. Is it possible this new light has anything to do with the Check Engine light and the reason he provided it was on? I just don't know what to do to be honest. I just forked out $6k cash for this car and I am trying to figure out what I need to do now... Please, any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am a single female and VERY new to the area I am now living in, so I don't know anyone to ask or even where to go and what to do.
Thank you so much for any information you may be able to provide.
Thank you so much for any information you may be able to provide.