amblyn

Hi not sure if anyone remembers a post i made of all things id like to repair or upgrade but i think i have my list. My question is are these parts i have selected good. Anything i should change before i finalize purchase or did i make good choices??

2000 LEXUS RX300 3.0L V6 Ignition : Spark Plug NGK Part # 4589 {#IFR6T11} Laser Iridium Spark Plug .044; OEM/OES Spark Plug + Sold in packs of 4; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack

$6.94 8 $55.52

Brake/Wheel Hub : Brake Pad AKEBONO Part # ACT707 ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad Akebono is the Original Equipment Manfacturer; OE material is ceramic; Front

$39.79

AKEBONO Part # ACT325 ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad OE material is ceramic; Rear $41.79

Brake/Wheel Hub : Rotor RAYBESTOS Part # 96819R Outside Diameter 11.34" / 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade AWD; Rear $31.79 2 $63.59

RAYBESTOS Part # 96820R Outside Diameter 11.65" / 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade Front $35.79 2 $71.58

Suspension : Strut Mount KYB Part # SM5179 Mount Components FWD; Front Right AWD; Front Right $57.79

KYB Part # SM5180 Mount Components FWD; Front Left AWD; Front Left $58.79

Suspension : Strut Assembly KYB Part # 334263 GR-2 / Excel-G AWD; Rear Right $103.79

KYB Part # 334264 GR-2 / Excel-G AWD; Rear Left $103.89

KYB Part # 334262 GR-2 / Excel-G FWD; Front Left AWD; Front Left $104.79

KYB Part # 334261 GR-2 / Excel-G AWD; Front Right FWD; Front Right $104.79

Emission : Oxygen Sensor DENSO Part # 2344215 OE Style Wire Length 19.69; DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer; Downstream $55.79

Exhaust : Resonator WALKER Part # 56096 If Welded Assembly, Replace All Required Parts If Welded Assembly, Replace All Required Parts $54.79

Exhaust : Catalytic Converter WALKER Part # 16121 Ultra Direct Fit Converter Rear; Requires 56096 Resonator to Complete Installation; Fed. & Calif. Emiss. Models.; Not legal for sale or use in the state of California.

$227.79

Brake/Wheel Hub : Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly RAYBESTOS Part # 712009A WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY Professional Grade Rear $62.79 2 $125.48

Ignition : Ignition Coil DENSO Part # 6731301 Coil on Plug DENSO is the OE supplier for this vehicle $60.79 6 $364.74

Engine : Timing Belt Component Kit GOODYEAR Part # GTKWP257 Inc. water pump & hydraulic tensioner (Only 1 Remaining) Interference engine application - Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day

$188.79

Thanks in advance for respnces opinions and remarks

salimshah

Please examine the tensioner roller and the idler roller. I would put them higher on the replacement list ... more than the water-pump and the hydraulic tensioner (@90k)

Salim

amblyn

Thats in with timing belt job?? i had feeling there was more in there didnt know what exactly though.

i know our cars can b pick and you all have alot of exp. so making sure parts i get are good and thatim not missing any btw my rx has 196k unknown history of new parts so all original in my book.

code58

,


Hi Amblyn,
I have a couple of suggestions, from personal experience. I am wondering why you are changing the REAR oxygen sensor? It may need replacing by 200k mi., but will often go the life of the vehicle. The FRONT sensors are the ones that most often go out, especially the one back by the firewall (B1S1). They are often called oxygen sensors, but are more acurately called A/F (air flow ratio sensors) sensors. By far the best price on the net is Amazon. I believe the Denso # is 234-9009, IF that's what you think you need. There are TWO of those.
Second thing is the spark plugs. The # is indeed correct for OEM NGK Iridium plugs but you should be able to buy them in any quantity that you need, rather than having to buy 2 more than you need, since those plugs should last longer than the car will. The price is an excellent price though, so it MAY NOT save you much if you are able to buy 6 rather than 8.
Third, and most important is the choice of timing belt kit. You have listed a Goodyear. I used a Goodyear Gatorback TB on my DIL's RX and had to replace it about 30 K mi. later because it looked like a snake going around the pullies. (tracking back and forth from poor construction, but was normal when I installed it) It was also made in a country I'm not sure I could even pronounce. I would highly suggest using ONLY OEM parts. Trust me you'll be glad you did, as the quality is so much better even though the price may or may not be a touch higher. I also agree with Salim, replace the upper idler pulley and the lower tensioner pulley. IF you are interested, I'll be happy to link to an outstanding source that has a 99.8 rating on E-bay and carries ALL OEM parts in any "package" form that you want, and at the best prices I've ever seen online.

Forth, may I ask why you are replacing ALL 6 coils? There are people that would say at 200K mi. that you should, but I contend that possibly 60-70% of T/L vehicles go to the wrecking yard with the original coils, I personally would wait til they went bad to replace 'em. May never have to.
These are ONE MAN'S opinions, but with a lifetime of experience to back that one man's experience. Just trying to give you the food for thought that you asked for.

toms73nova

could you let me know.
Thanks -Tom

hypervish

I agree with code58, no need to replace the coils. They can last for the life of the car. But if you are skeptical go ahead and only buy 3 and replace the one's in the back ( hardest, and costliest to replace). The one's in the front are easy to replace and then you will have 3 spare coils to keep in the trunk incase one of the one's in the front decide to go one day.

Also stick with OEM for the timing belt. It is the one of the most important components on the car, especially considering it's an interference engine.

amblyn

Thank you all for your suggestions and opinions.

I am replacing o2 sensor after car because im replacing the cat and the pipe o2 sensor is in and resonator. and chances are the o2 sensor currently there will not come out easily so will just replace.
I recently replaced b1s1 couple months ago.

as far as the plugs and coils go. ill have extra money so im trying to replace anything that could imaginably go bad. i need this call to possibly go another 200k you know so figured if im going to do plugs do all the coils too. im used to older cars with dist cap and wireset those went bad with time so learned to replace you know. not too familiar with these coilovers.

just want to fix my current issues and prevent future ones. i will def take advice and get oem water pump i was sketchy about the ones listed on rockauto.com as well i live 2 mi from a toyota dealer and lexus is nearby also.

Anybody know about the wheel hub assemblys what brand is good etc. i have alot of noise back there cant tell wich side so will just replace both while i can.

And for suspension i get this creaking rattle noise front right thats a bad strut right again figured why put one new strut in be a nice ride with all 4 question is do i need springs or just struts and mounts thanks guys

hypervish

Just struts and mounts. Springs are good for a lifetime of the car, if not more than that. LOL

Transforma

May I ask how many miles on the car?

salimshah

@180~200k miles, I would seriously think about replacing the water pump, but not at 90k. One has to examine for leaks and operation.

The tensioner is a hydraulic spring which compensates for belt stretch and geometry changes of the pulleys. It does not wear out much, but one has to make sure that it has not developed a leak and can be changed with ease (unlike water pump).

The idler roller and the tensioner roller are sealed bearings and need to be examined for smooth motion and must be replaced if they have a blue hue (sign of heatup).

One of the down sides about DIY or Do-it-for-me-cheaply is having the parts at hand. I did ny son's SC tb change and ordered the tensioner roller and the idler and not the tensioner and my hunch turned out to be correct.


You did not ask of me, but hypervish is right on the springs. They would need replacement if you overload your vehicle for god amount of time (no milage limit). Similarly the struts (unless they spring a leak) have their life based on roads you travel.

Salim

amblyn

Ok so ill change pulleys that you mentioned as id rather have mechanic do it all while its apart.

As for suspension i do have heavy loads once or twice a week of about 900ibs or so for work delivery. Only ten to twenty miles or so. Im sure thats not good for the rx. I just want to replace parts now while i have money. Is there a way to tell how bad springs are i know the shake thecar and see how many bounces test but does that tell you struts or springs. Also are those kyb struts good is there a more preferred brand or model amongst all you rxers.

Again thanks for taking time to respond and help me out.

salimshah

Bounce test is for shocks/struts. The Springs are tested by measuring the standing height (with a full tanks & or some standard weights on all seats). Body shops have the table.

Salim

code58

Tom- Mail has arrived.

amblyn

Hey code can you send me that link also. thanks for advice and help.

code58

Check your PM's. Should be there.