roostonu

I have worked at a California Licensed Brake & Lamp Inspection Station for 26 years. Every car that ends up with a salvage title has to get a Certified Lamp & Brake Inspection before it can be registered in California. I have done hundreds of brake inspections and rusty rotors is not something you inspect for. I was never taught in College level Brake Repair class that rusty rotors are no good. I have never heard of rust causing a rotor to warp. If a mechanic told you that, it's only because he wanted to sell you rotors.

As I said before. Too much heat or as someone else added, over torquing, are the only things that will cause your rotors to warp. A rotor that is .060 thinner than a new stock rotor will not slowly warp just because it's thinner. Over heating either one will most likely cause it to warp.

It can only take one panic stop or long steep downhill to over heat your rotors and cause them to warp. If your calipers aren't working just right you can generate more heat on one side of the rotor than the other, causing it to warp. Aftermarket rotors with poor metal qualities can warp more easily, but only if you get them hot.

mckellyb

I concur.

Turning, while you'd not think removing a tiny bit of mass would make a significant difference, it does.

I drove my wife's car, exclusively, after having the front rotors, OEM, turned, and they warped with no provocation. Flat land, and I managed to get 95K out of the front pads.

Just go new. As much as I hate to replace what should be reusable, this is one of those things which doesn't pay off.

To me, the best way to 'conserve' is to not use it in the first place, if reasonably possible, or if not, keep whatever it is, in use, as long as it's viable to new. Even then, shop a salvage yard, first.

roostonu

I have literally done thousands of brake jobs and turned thousands of rotors. You could have had rotors with poor metallurgical properties that were prone to warping from the start or there could have been some other underlying problem such as over torquing or problem calipers. You could of even had a tech that machined them under the minimum thickness but normal turning within the service limits will not cause rotors to warp for no other reason.

salimshah

I will make a suggestion here [before a more drastic action]

All parties have made their point and now let the readers make up their minds. We have reached a point where further discussion is not adding anything new. Lets agree to disagree and move on.

Happy holidays.

Salim

lexrally

Hello Forum

My 2002 RX300 FWD has a steering wheel shake while going over 50 MPH
and hitting the brakes. No shimmy if I am not using the brakes.
Exactly as it mentioned in this thread.

I took it to my shop, and asked for new rotors and pads for the front wheels.

They came back and said I need the following work done:

1.0 FB-PARTS FRONT BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
1.0 FB-LABOR FRONT BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 99.00 99.00
* ******************************************
1.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE PADS 1 6 9 89.95 89.95
2.0 RB-PARTS REAR BRAKE ROTORS 1 6 9 53.00 106.00
1.0 RB-LABOR REAR BRAKE SERVICE-LABOR 6 9 118.80 118.80
* ******************************************
1.0 PART LF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
1.0 PART RF LOWER CONTROL ARM 1 6 I 220.00 220.00
2.0 LABOR LABOR 6 I 99.00 198.00


basically, I only need new pads up front, and front rotors cut.
All new rotors/pads rear. And lower control arms front sde.

Does this make sense?

Because I thought , too, upon braking, indicates warped rotors.

Could it also be due to the lower controls arms?
They said the lower control arm bushings are shot.

Thanks

fastnoypi

lower control arm bushings do wear out..but its not the cause of the shimmy. The causes are probably due to uneven runout, pad glazing, and/or uneven pad deposits. It takes alot to warp rotors with regular street driving.

lexrally

Shop just called me back,.....

Fiist time I asked, didn't get this answer,
but this time I asked again if it were
directly related to the rotors. answer is yes it is warped rotors
this time around.

Also, they said the lower control arms would cause
a "clunk" noise when hitting bumps, but not the shimmy while braking at high
speeds. Also, the rears are ok until next oil change.

We will just replace just the front rotor/pads.

Deal with the other problems later....

Will let you know f the shimmy goes away.

lexrally

Shimmy is gone....definitely rotors

matts6887

I have sorta had a similar issue with my rx lately. For me as well; it seems that whenever braking from higher speeds I am getting a steering wheel shimmying but only when braking from freeway or close to freeway speeds. Same issue here my rotors need replacing? Or is it something else? Also; when braking at regular street speeds Im getting like a "pulsing" of the brakes when coming to a stop. Is this related or is this a totally separate issue?

appsdba

I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 and when I bought it used (had 168,000+ miles on it), I had the EXACT same problem you are having. I went to Pep Boys to have them resurfaced but they said they were already to thin to be resurfaced. So, I watched a couple YouTube videos, bought & replaced all four rotors by myself and problem solved. My car is very steady when braking from 75 MPH on the freeway.

maxSteel

For the high speed shimmy I would think rotors. For the low speed pulsing I would think ABS.
I would start with the rotors before the shimmy eats the tires.

matts6887

Yea i was afraid that rotors might be the answer. As for the braking; not sure because i do not have any abs light coming on; so with that in mind Im sorta inclined to think it could be the rotors as well.

carguy07

You will never confuse a rotor issue with ABS. ABS is like machine gun actuating and not so dependent on speed.

matts6887

Well then if its not abs causing the pulsing Ive been experiencing; is it probably the rotors and or pads?

carguy07

For sure.