FIRST GEN RX300 (1999-2003) DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FIX!!!
These instructions will probably be applicable to most RX's with just a few differences, but specific for the FIRST GEN RX300's.
All these automatic door lock actuator motors go bad eventually, so here is a simple write-up:
: 2|5 (5 being the hardest).
: 2 hours for first time.
(Make sure windows are fully up).
: Buy a MABUCHI FC280PC-22125
on eBay for about $8.00 shipped. Make sure it's a GENUINE MABUCHI motor (needs to be ROUND SHAFT 10mm LONG). Try to buy from a USA based seller, otherwise could take up to a month to get it.
: Buy a Walkera Universal Pinion Gear Puller
on eBay for about $12.00 shipped. Again try to buy from a USA based seller. Stay away from the BRASS PULLER (good for one time use then breaks). Get the metal (chrome) puller, great little tool and makes this soooo much easier. The collars are often brittle and break if not using the gear puller.
: Buy a T-30 TORX
bit/socket to attach to a ratchet.
: Get tools ready. Channel locks, Needle nose pliers, Universal screwdriver, Small flat-head screwdriver, Small ratchet, 10MM socket, T-30 TORX bit with socket, Box cutter or rugged exacto knife.
: Removal of the wood door lock/window panel. This was the hardest for me, b/c I didn't want to break or chip any of the wood panel. There are a few write-ups for this but I never found a picture. So, get your small flat-head screwdriver and wedge it through the crack on the top inner portion of the wood door lock/window panel. Gently pry this side out, there is a clip in there that is a PITA but keep trying, it will eventually give way. Then pull the top part straight up then out towards the windshield. Disconnect the power wire from the panel. Remove the hidden screw, after removal.
: Removal of the door handle (really easy). Remove the small philips head screw under the plastic cover. Get your small flat-head screwdriver again and wedge it between the trim and actual lock, this will pry off the door handle shroud.
: Remove all the push in fasteners under the door panel and on the side as well. They are easy to remove, just pry up the sides (pop out). Also, remove all screws that are on the door panel.
: Remove the door panel. Pull up on the door panel, don't have to remove entry light on bottom of the door. Just have to disconnect the power wire while removing door panel.
: Remove the (3) TORX bolts from the side of the door. Frees up the lock actuator.
: Peel back half of the plastic dirt cover. Remove the bolts keeping the window frame arm in place, this will allow you a lot more room to work. The window frame arm will just hang there and is easy to move around.
: Now you will have to reach up into the corner inner part of the door. There are (2) plastic clips that are easy to snap free of the metal lock actuator rods. Unplug the power cord to the actuator. Once the actuator is free, maneuver the lock actuator out through the big lower hole.
: Don't remove the cables from the lock actuator or lock handle!!! Much easier to just pull the handle with the (2) cables through the hole in the plastic dirt cover, than trying to remove the cables (easily breakable). Remove the bolts holding the door lock handle to the door frame.
: Remove the (4) screws keeping the metal bracket attached to the lock actuator. Now it is easy to maneuver the cable out of the plastic part (like a bicycle brake).
: Get your box cutter or small bladed rugged exacto knife. Now gently slide it in between the crack where you can see the two halves are connected. Don't go too deep, just cut along the seam until you can feel the connection ease apart. This will take some time going around a few times, take your time otherwise you'll break the plastic. Once you feel the depth is the same all around with the blade, gently pry the plastic halves apart in different places.
: Once the cover is off you can pry out the motor with your small screwdriver. This is where you use the PINION GEAR PULLER
to remove the gear from the old motor and then squeeze it on the new motor with the channel locks. I transferred over the rubber pad on top of the old motor to the new one.
: Put the cover back on the actuator with the screws you removed (super glue optional but not necessary) to keep the cover on. Slide the cable back in (bicycle brake).
: Maneuver the actuator in through the big hole, door lock handle first. Then clip the (2) rods into the outer door handle clips. Put the (3) TORX bolts back in the door actuator, then the bolts going into the window frame rail. Bolts holding the door lock handle back in.
: Push the plastic dirt cover back into the sticky tar.
: Reconnect the entry light power wire and slide the door panel back on from the top. Reconnect the wood window/door lock panel wire and slide it back in from the top. Pull out the door handle and slide the trim back on, put screw back in.
: Put all the plastic fasteners back in the door panel and screws.
Should be good to go now. Just like OEM!!! Should last as long if not longer than original. Of course the driver's side door is going to wear out the fastest b/c of the power lock function of locking and unlocking via the remote control key.
THANKS especially to JiBBel
for the info on installing mine last year.