Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Exterior Guides
- How to Replace Your Car Window
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
- How to Replace Your Power Window Actuator
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Exterior Guides
RX300: DIY door lock actuator fix write-up
#316
I think I know why it's doing it, I just didn't put two and two together till I saw your post: when I changed the lock actuator, the rear window track was in the way, and after reinstalling it (apparently tweaked a bit), the window is just slightly slower. I wonder if the window is a bit stiff in the track and is being intermittently perceived as a kid's hand jammed in the window.
I ordered a new window switch relay, but before changing that, maybe I'll see if tweaking or greasing the window track helps.
Thanks again!
#317
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just thought I would add my two cents.
Dremel did work good with a vice.
When you put the pinion back on; don't go further than it was. Will cause the lock to bind....then it is really hard to get the gear puller in to get it back where it was. One tooth made the difference.
If you buy a replacement door handle from rock auto the threads where the cable seats are not very good quality; mine slipped out so I put a drop of glue there.
I would say taken the door handle bezel off without breaking it and opening up the actuator enclosure were the toughest. Also, getting the actuator out on the back door was a pain.
All done and working good but it took all weekend and a couple re-dos. Needless to say I can probably do them in under an hour now. It would almost be worth it to buy the casing whole if you are short on time.
Dremel did work good with a vice.
When you put the pinion back on; don't go further than it was. Will cause the lock to bind....then it is really hard to get the gear puller in to get it back where it was. One tooth made the difference.
If you buy a replacement door handle from rock auto the threads where the cable seats are not very good quality; mine slipped out so I put a drop of glue there.
I would say taken the door handle bezel off without breaking it and opening up the actuator enclosure were the toughest. Also, getting the actuator out on the back door was a pain.
All done and working good but it took all weekend and a couple re-dos. Needless to say I can probably do them in under an hour now. It would almost be worth it to buy the casing whole if you are short on time.
#318
I have a question:
I replaced the dead passenger door lock actuator as described, and all's well except an annoying new feature that disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes did not solve: whenever the doors are unlocked and someone uses the front passenger door (the one with the new actuator), as soon as that door is closed, the hatch briefly locks then immediately unlocks.
Not the end of the world, but WTF? Any ideas?
I replaced the dead passenger door lock actuator as described, and all's well except an annoying new feature that disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes did not solve: whenever the doors are unlocked and someone uses the front passenger door (the one with the new actuator), as soon as that door is closed, the hatch briefly locks then immediately unlocks.
Not the end of the world, but WTF? Any ideas?
#319
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: florida
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, just finished with the driver's door of a 2001. So far so good!
Took me about 2.5 to 3 hours.
Panel was off in 5 minutes (but I'd removed it last weekend, so I knew exactly what to do).
Getting the actuator rod out of the white clip was easy, thanks to someone else's tip. But for some reason, getting the one out of the red clip was a pain. Finally, it popped out. Didn't bother trying to remove the outside handle. But it is a little difficult working in that tight space, especially if you have big hands.
Actuator case was open at about 1.5 hours in.
Getting the actuator case open was the biggest challenge. I tried an exacto knife for a while, but it was taking forever. Was also worried about the blade slipping and cutting myself. Finally, I decided to use the Dremel with the thin disk. That worked. It did remove some material (kinda left a small channel at the seam), but not enough to affect the 2 pieces fitting together.
Didn't glue the pieces back together, because of that small channel. It seemed like there was a little gap, and I didn't want super glue seeping inside of the case and messing something up. The 2 screws should be able to hold it back together well enough (I hope).
Putting the actuator back in was a little bit of a pain, because of that swinging window arm getting in the way. The actuator has 4 torx screws holding it in (3 on the end, and 1 on the side). I recommend putting the 1 back in before re-attaching the rods, so that it will support the weight of the actuator while you connect them.
All in all, it went pretty smoothly.
Took me about 2.5 to 3 hours.
Panel was off in 5 minutes (but I'd removed it last weekend, so I knew exactly what to do).
Getting the actuator rod out of the white clip was easy, thanks to someone else's tip. But for some reason, getting the one out of the red clip was a pain. Finally, it popped out. Didn't bother trying to remove the outside handle. But it is a little difficult working in that tight space, especially if you have big hands.
Actuator case was open at about 1.5 hours in.
Getting the actuator case open was the biggest challenge. I tried an exacto knife for a while, but it was taking forever. Was also worried about the blade slipping and cutting myself. Finally, I decided to use the Dremel with the thin disk. That worked. It did remove some material (kinda left a small channel at the seam), but not enough to affect the 2 pieces fitting together.
Didn't glue the pieces back together, because of that small channel. It seemed like there was a little gap, and I didn't want super glue seeping inside of the case and messing something up. The 2 screws should be able to hold it back together well enough (I hope).
Putting the actuator back in was a little bit of a pain, because of that swinging window arm getting in the way. The actuator has 4 torx screws holding it in (3 on the end, and 1 on the side). I recommend putting the 1 back in before re-attaching the rods, so that it will support the weight of the actuator while you connect them.
All in all, it went pretty smoothly.
#320
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California - USA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great post, some suggestions to make it easier
I used these instructions for a rear driver-side door, rather than the front. A few things I learned made it easier (or would have, if I did them):
1. Totally agree with the posts about replacing the entire actuator. Wish I read them first. Found one on eBay for $49.95. [edit ..salim].
2. Take a photo of each screw you remove that shows where it goes. Because I had to wait a week for my actuator to arrive, I struggled a bit to remember where everything went back. I ended up with one extra screw, but am missing one, so I must have swapped two somehow. This is especially true for the rear door that doesn't match exactly the instructions in the post.
3. When removing the wood panel with the window switch, it's very important to pry up both the front and rear a little bit before lifting the entire thing straight up. Otherwise, you'll snap off a connector as i did. Fortunately, it still stays in pretty well with just one connector. It's an expensive part.
4. I struggled to remove the push-in fasteners, breaking a few in the process. Realized after that there's a truck to pull out the center pin first, then pull the whole thing out. Anyone know where I can more of them online?
5. Loosening the window arm barely helped, it only moved a little. It was a challenge to find a way to get the mechanism out of the whole in the door. However, keep trying different angles and eventually it will come out. Moving it down to the lower, bigger hole didn't help because of the window arm in the way.
6. When putting the mechanism back in, you have to make sure that the plastic piece from the door handle (two long plastic prongs) fits around the pin so that pulling the door handle opens the door. I didn't see anything about that in the instructions, but figured it out. It was a challenge to get it lined up correctly in the tight space.
Hope this helps some of you.
1. Totally agree with the posts about replacing the entire actuator. Wish I read them first. Found one on eBay for $49.95. [edit ..salim].
2. Take a photo of each screw you remove that shows where it goes. Because I had to wait a week for my actuator to arrive, I struggled a bit to remember where everything went back. I ended up with one extra screw, but am missing one, so I must have swapped two somehow. This is especially true for the rear door that doesn't match exactly the instructions in the post.
3. When removing the wood panel with the window switch, it's very important to pry up both the front and rear a little bit before lifting the entire thing straight up. Otherwise, you'll snap off a connector as i did. Fortunately, it still stays in pretty well with just one connector. It's an expensive part.
4. I struggled to remove the push-in fasteners, breaking a few in the process. Realized after that there's a truck to pull out the center pin first, then pull the whole thing out. Anyone know where I can more of them online?
5. Loosening the window arm barely helped, it only moved a little. It was a challenge to find a way to get the mechanism out of the whole in the door. However, keep trying different angles and eventually it will come out. Moving it down to the lower, bigger hole didn't help because of the window arm in the way.
6. When putting the mechanism back in, you have to make sure that the plastic piece from the door handle (two long plastic prongs) fits around the pin so that pulling the door handle opens the door. I didn't see anything about that in the instructions, but figured it out. It was a challenge to get it lined up correctly in the tight space.
Hope this helps some of you.
Last edited by salimshah; 10-07-16 at 09:52 AM. Reason: External link removed
#321
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tips - I'll read this when the fourth motor dies!!!
So far, have done 3 of these, and have the following observations:
Lirrle plastic plugs around the perimeter - push in center a little bit and they will pop out easier!
Can peek in thru the door glass opening to see the little swivel disconnectors, makes it easier.
Hold the Window track out of the way with a larger screwdriver poked thru the top opening.
The Remote will not flip the lock lever until you plug in the upper control switch.
Group up the control rods when you introduce the mechanism back into the lower hole on re-assembly.
` They can get hung up on the structures inside the door.
Measure the offset from the face of the motor to the bottom of the shaft cover.
Channel-locks are good for pressing the shaft cover back into place. Big ones!
Lirrle plastic plugs around the perimeter - push in center a little bit and they will pop out easier!
Can peek in thru the door glass opening to see the little swivel disconnectors, makes it easier.
Hold the Window track out of the way with a larger screwdriver poked thru the top opening.
The Remote will not flip the lock lever until you plug in the upper control switch.
Group up the control rods when you introduce the mechanism back into the lower hole on re-assembly.
` They can get hung up on the structures inside the door.
Measure the offset from the face of the motor to the bottom of the shaft cover.
Channel-locks are good for pressing the shaft cover back into place. Big ones!
#322
Driver School Candidate
Worked, but now one door locks when others unlock
I did this -- thank you much for the person who wrote the instructions!
So now, the motor runs but there is something in there that's bass-ackwards.
I replaced the motor for the driver's door. Now:
- When I press the wireless key control to lock the car I hear it whir like it's trying to lock, then a few seconds later it unlocks. The other three doors work normally.
- If I sit in the car and press the Lock All Doors button on the driver's door switch panel, all the doors lock except the driver's door which UNlocks! If I unlock all, then all doors unlock except the driver's door, which LOCKS!
Ideas?
So now, the motor runs but there is something in there that's bass-ackwards.
I replaced the motor for the driver's door. Now:
- When I press the wireless key control to lock the car I hear it whir like it's trying to lock, then a few seconds later it unlocks. The other three doors work normally.
- If I sit in the car and press the Lock All Doors button on the driver's door switch panel, all the doors lock except the driver's door which UNlocks! If I unlock all, then all doors unlock except the driver's door, which LOCKS!
Ideas?
#323
Moderator
I did this -- thank you much for the person who wrote the instructions!
So now, the motor runs but there is something in there that's bass-ackwards.
I replaced the motor for the driver's door. Now:
- When I press the wireless key control to lock the car I hear it whir like it's trying to lock, then a few seconds later it unlocks. The other three doors work normally.
- If I sit in the car and press the Lock All Doors button on the driver's door switch panel, all the doors lock except the driver's door which UNlocks! If I unlock all, then all doors unlock except the driver's door, which LOCKS!
Ideas?
So now, the motor runs but there is something in there that's bass-ackwards.
I replaced the motor for the driver's door. Now:
- When I press the wireless key control to lock the car I hear it whir like it's trying to lock, then a few seconds later it unlocks. The other three doors work normally.
- If I sit in the car and press the Lock All Doors button on the driver's door switch panel, all the doors lock except the driver's door which UNlocks! If I unlock all, then all doors unlock except the driver's door, which LOCKS!
Ideas?
Best Idea to share is to read this thread. There is a discussion on incorrect motors being sold ... incorrect .. same part number but the direction of rotation is backwards,
Salim
#324
Driver School Candidate
Or, much easier: replace the whole actuator for $25
I did this and the motor was defective (as some of the thread said sometimes happens). Bad words ensued.
Much easier: Instead of replacing the motor, consider replacing the whole actuator. The motor and the gear puller tool are only a few dollars less than buying the whole actuator (about $25). Search ebay for RX300 actuator.
Much easier: Instead of replacing the motor, consider replacing the whole actuator. The motor and the gear puller tool are only a few dollars less than buying the whole actuator (about $25). Search ebay for RX300 actuator.
#325
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: flroida
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rear door lock worked manually in my car but not with the auto lock. It always made noise like something is spinning.I had removed two screws from the actuator and the electrical clip and disassembled the chassis of the part. But it won't worked so i called Locksmith and they then fix the issue by replacing the actuator.
#326
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Or
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#328
Moderator
If and when you work on the actuator, keep the panel off for few days to confirm good operation. Once the door is shut with the panel on, you are out of luck.
Salim
#329
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2017
Location: California
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you!
i followed this tutorial when replacing the actuator on my son's 2000 RX 300. Three of the four door locks would not function. I found this tutorial very helpful and exactly right. I purchased the motors mentioned and they fit perfectly. I ordered the gear puller as well but cancelled the order as it was being shipped from China. No thanks. Was going to take 5 weeks. Decided to go without it.
You don't really need it, but it does require persuasion to get it off. Used a vice to press on the old part.
The passenger side front door was the most difficult as there are two rods that connect to the door handle and lock. Very tight a fussy to reattach. Patience here is required as well as small hands which I do not have.
The rear doors were much easier.
The motors cost $18 for four of them. A real bargain.
Rear doors difficulty, about 3 out of 10
Front door. 5 out of 10.
Thank you you so much for the great write up.
You don't really need it, but it does require persuasion to get it off. Used a vice to press on the old part.
The passenger side front door was the most difficult as there are two rods that connect to the door handle and lock. Very tight a fussy to reattach. Patience here is required as well as small hands which I do not have.
The rear doors were much easier.
The motors cost $18 for four of them. A real bargain.
Rear doors difficulty, about 3 out of 10
Front door. 5 out of 10.
Thank you you so much for the great write up.
#330
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: VA
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replaced my 2002 RX300 two rear door locks last weekend. It took about 2 hour with a help of my more season home mechanic cousin. Thank OP for the DYI instructions.