When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hopefully you guys all looked at the piggyback method to fix these and made the choice to repair them the arguably "right" way. The piggyback worked great for me and countless others. Just want to make sure you guys are aware of it when doing this repair.
Which wires did you reverse? I'm a little hesitant to cut blindly, and - at least as far as I can see - they aren't labeled. If I can find my multimeter, I could probably find out, but I'd appreciate your insight.
I'm trying to get my wife's car fixed up before we go out of town for vacation...
I reversed the motor wires. But apparently there's more going on than just the direction the motor spins so it refused to operate correctly mechanically.
I ordered the motor housings from Ebay and they work as they should. but I still need to replace the rears because now when I use the key to unlock the alarm goes off. I suppose it's because the right rear is still reversed and it doesn't get the correct signal to the computer.
Link to Right front; http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-99-03-LEXUS-RX300-PASSENGER-FRONT-RIGHT-DOOR-LOCK-LATCH-ACTUATOR-/331602388182?fits=Model%3ARX300&hash=item4d350ae4d6&vxp=mtr
So in May of 2013 the front right door lock motor kicked the bucket and with the incredible step by step details I replaced it successfully. Zero problems to this day. Last year the right rear door lock started acting up and eventually quit. Now recently the driver side front door lock kicked the bucket so it's time to address them. I went ahead and did both the door with the bad locks but since there was only 1 door left, wth I knocked it out too. They all work so strong and perfectly. I absolutely love being able to repair these locks for so little money and couldn't stress to anyone else to do it. It's so easy. Thank you everyone for your feedback. Much appreciated.
Did the mod, I test the door manually multiple times with key everything works. Try the electric it works great. Then trying it manually it doesn't work to unlock or key. I read something in a post about the spring under the gear. I looked at it and it looked good. Does anyone have a picture of what it should look like? Or maybe another problem?
You did the mod or the fix. Mod would be a work around while the fix would be to replace the bad motor.
Since your problem is with the mechanical part, I would check if the links and the cable are hooked up properly. The nylon locks are not dislodged.
The next step may involve removing the actuator again and making sure it was assembled properly and do the dry run (yanking the cable and pushing down on the plate.
Just make sure you do not button up the door panel till everything is verified by couple of days of testing.
Someone asked after the repair they can’t operate the door lock manually. The reason is because after you open the actuator module, you can see there is a circular spring sitting inside the race trace of the clamshell. The circular spring has an ‘L’ bend on each end. What happened to me was that after I opened the module, the spring sat loosely inside the race track. I didn’t know it was a problem and after I put everything back I wasn’t able to operate the door lock manually, either. I finally realized that the ‘L’ bends need to tie to the two opening edges of the race track, by pulling the spring about 3/4 turn. Without the spring, after the motor is activated and turns the gear, the gear will sit at a position so that the lever (which is hooked up to the ‘bicycle brake’) won’t be able to turn the gear in the other direction. The spring pushes the rotary gear back about 1/4 turn so that the lever can work in a ‘free zone’ of the gear. So remember to check if the spring is sat properly in the race track.
but I do not know what it should look like or where the gear needs to be.
We need pictures of the innards. So open it up again and send photos. That will help jog our memory. You can also try PM to the person who posted the fix.
Perhaps this video at 5 minutes 40 seconds will help you see where the spring should be located
Thanks!
So the gear needs to rotate 3/4 not 1/4 quarter. In my gear the bottom slot is in the 1 quarter below the smiley face. It looks like that might be the issue.
After replacing the motors in three doors I found two that didn't work manually after powering them up. I pulled them out and found that not all motor shafts are created equally. It appears that the worm spindle (pointed out by the screwdriver tip) was touching the motor shaft and causing a binding resistance (when installed) that the spring could not overcome. I ground down the worm spindle just enough to avoid contact with the motor shaft. After reinstalling the motor and worm I was able to clockwise spin the worm gear using my small screwdriver and watching the spring return it back without any resistance. I completed the reassembly and now all my doors work as they should.
After replacing the motors in three doors I found two that didn't work manually after powering them up. I pulled them out and found that not all motor shafts are created equally. It appears that the worm spindle (pointed out by the screwdriver tip) was touching the motor shaft and causing a binding resistance (when installed) that the spring could not overcome. I ground down the worm spindle just enough to avoid contact with the motor shaft. After reinstalling the motor and worm I was able to clockwise spin the worm gear using my small screwdriver and watching the spring return it back without any resistance. I completed the reassembly and now all my doors work as they should.
Worm spindle
Why is your worm spindle so long? I did all 4 doors and none looked like that. All mine fit without hassle. Weird.
12-15-14, 04:42 PM
Help needed
, just did my drivers door actuator motor. Took me about 30 min.
