salimshah

Yes make sure your battery is nice and strong. Electronics does not like low voltage.

Battery and Clock... we have seen that when the battery voltage falls below a threshold, the clock resets to 12 midnight. This happens when the battery is under most load (starting). With the beat of the clock maintained by crystal, it does not slow-down. 45mins out of right time has more to do when the clock got reset.

Also try removing battery terminal for about 15 min to clear out any gremlins in the locking system.

Salim

gamik

Dnelli,
I am also doing a rear driver side actuator motor change on a 02 rx300. How did you remove the actuator from the door. I cant seem to slide it behind the window track. I have removed the bolts on the window track and have removed the 4 torx screws but the actuator is too wide to slide behind it. Am I doing something wrong? Any help would be appreciated.

gamik

Actually - I got it - I was trying to get it from the back of the window frame but it comes from the front. Thanks to everyone on this forum. Its been really helpful

salimshah

IMPORTANT SAFETY DIY tips:

1. Remember to disconnect battery. The front door lock mechanism has a position where the windows will roll-down or up on you.

2. Once the work is complete, do not re-attach the door panel and test the system out for couple of days. If something is messed up and the door panel is attached, you will have to destroy the door panel to get to it.

3. Exercise patience in removing and attaching rod-clips. Not very intuitive for novices.

4. There is limited access and only one way to get things in and out. Remember the disassembly process or better still write it down.


Salim

yngwie5290

Hey, I've read over this a few times and watched the video. Great writeup!

I'm almost ready to do this, just waiting on the parts. BTW, I bought 2 motors for $10, and the puller was $21 after delivery (that's about what they go for these days). Both from eBay.

Last week, I took off the panel (and put back on), just to see what I'm dealing with and get comfortable. i.e. no surprises

The only thing I think I don't understand is this:

Step 12: "Remove the bolts holding the door lock handle to the door frame."

Maybe it's obvious, but how is this done. Do I have to reach up into the corner with a ratchet?

I don't see holes in the frame for doing this, like in the video.

And...is this just necessary for reattaching the actuator rods? i.e. it's impossible/difficult without removing the handle?

Thanks in advance.

salimshah

Once the panel is off, you can see the bolts holding the door handle (for fronts it has the key lock assembly too) [door handle is the outside door release].

Is it necessary? It depends upon how you can work with the rods with one end fixed or both ends free. I do remember asking my wife to help get one of the bolts/nuts started during assembly.

Salim

yngwie5290

Salim, thanks for the response.

So, it sounds like it's just easier to re-attach the rods with that piece (handle/lock assembly) being unbolted (like in the video)....and working from the outside of the car to reattach the rods. (hope that makes sense)

I totally understand the piece we're talking about, I just don't see the bolts to detach it. Do you have to loosen them from inside of the panel?

For example, I don't see them in this pic (or how to access):



Not sure I see them from the inside either:



Thanks again for your help.

salimshah

2nd picture shows the head of the bolt, Right of the pink clip and at the bottom of the assembly.

The top one (2nd) is to the right (as viewed in the picture) of the handle.

The access is through the hole ... you stuck your camera in there.

You are over thinking it. It will be intuitive and believe me identifying the bolts is the least of the problem.


Salim

yngwie5290

Yeah, I probably am overthinking it.

Thanks again for your help.

2002RX300

Step 12, I'm referring to the "cables" not "rods" of the "inner" door handle/lock. There are (2) bolts on each side of the handle you have to remove. Step 14 shows the cables still attached to the handle and lock actuator. No need to loosen the outer door handle to detach the rods from the plastic clips.

yngwie5290

Okay, thank you! That helps.

You know, originally, I had no intention of detaching that outer handle after reading your instructions. But that video (on page 2?) got me thinking maybe it was necessary (because that guy does take his off...of course, he had 3 holes on the inside of the frame to access the bolts...different car). So then I was thinking "that sure is a tricky step to be glossed over like that".

So, I'll just leave it on. Hopefully reattaching the rods isn't so bad.

Anyway, thanks again.

Transforma

I just did driver front and driver rear... took me the whole afternoon because I took my time.

FYI: for the driver rear, you can take it out from the back window frame. The window "bar" is in the way but I still managed to take out the actuator. Make sure you take your time and be patient.

yngwie5290

Okay, just finished with the driver's door of a 2001. So far so good!

Took me about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Panel was off in 5 minutes (but I'd removed it last weekend, so I knew exactly what to do).

Getting the actuator rod out of the white clip was easy, thanks to someone else's tip. But for some reason, getting the one out of the red clip was a pain. Finally, it popped out. Didn't bother trying to remove the outside handle. But it is a little difficult working in that tight space, especially if you have big hands.

Actuator case was open at about 1.5 hours in.

Getting the actuator case open was the biggest challenge. I tried an exacto knife for a while, but it was taking forever. Was also worried about the blade slipping and cutting myself. Finally, I decided to use the Dremel with the thin disk. That worked. It did remove some material (kinda left a small channel at the seam), but not enough to affect the 2 pieces fitting together.

Didn't glue the pieces back together, because of that small channel. It seemed like there was a little gap, and I didn't want super glue seeping inside of the case and messing something up. The 2 screws should be able to hold it back together well enough (I hope).

Putting the actuator back in was a little bit of a pain, because of that swinging window arm getting in the way. The actuator has 4 torx screws holding it in (3 on the end, and 1 on the side). I recommend putting the 1 back in before re-attaching the rods, so that it will support the weight of the actuator while you connect them.

All in all, it went pretty smoothly.

andres-eh2

Thanks everyone for the great info. Got this done yesterday on my RX300 Right Rear door. Worked perfectly.

mrx330

Hi - I followed the actuator fix DIY (on RX300) and the my key remote and the unlock / lock button work wonderfully.
But, I am unable to lock / unlock the fixed door when MANUALLY using the key or the lock switch next to the open door handle.

Has anyone run into this problem? Any solutions?