aejaz

This forum is amazing, Thanks to everyone for replies. This forum could solve the issue in my RX300 which mechanics looted for me and could not resolve. I followed the exact procedure from this thread to replace the rear valve cover and PCV valve.. the oil burning issue solved..
I am looking for some shock replacement shocks which can fit on my RX300 2002, the dealer quotes around $900 for all there which sounds high and does not include labour

salimshah

You were among the first to report burning oil during long trips. Personally I was among the skeptics that a re-engineered valve cover will do the trick. The real test would be what happens after 60,000miles or so or if a new old design cover was used. We have to wait for the former and the later does not make sense for any one to do.

Glad it worked out for you. For shocks, lets leave that discussion for another thread.

Salim

2KHarrier

So, the more I read about the re-engineered valve cover, the more I have to wonder. Why does this seem to fix oil consumption issues on the RX now? What were people doing 14 years ago about this problem? Or was there always a consumption problem?

Rdmoon

Dear Folks,
The valve cover on some of the 2001 RX300 has a baffle that is pointed at the wrong angle and isn't tall enough I guess block the flow of oil into the PCV valve. So the PCV valve port is sucking in motor which is then burned by the engine. If your RX burns more oil the faster you drive, or if you notice a quarter inch drop on the dip stick after an hour or so road trip at the speed limit, you could well have an oil sucker. Mine was using up to 4 quarts per month. If you have a plastic pcv valve it's another clue you have this problem. This issue has been around for a long time but I don't remember reading that Toyota issued a recall.
Toyota maintains a parts list of Updated parts and those are the ones you need; not as originally built. The updated parts include a new valve cover with upgraded baffles on the inside, a new metal pvc valve and short hose and a valve cover gasket. Find a good independent mechanic and you should be able to get everything bought and installed for around 500-600. Side benefits include not continuing to load the catalytic converter with constant flows of partially burned oil, carbon, and coke. Too much of that for too long and my mechanic says you can 'poison' or ruin the converter..
If your RX was a short distance commuter some people might not realize they had this oil sucking problem. Once replaced, the engine may well feel stronger and more responsive. I am happy the fix worked for me. Devour the Lexus Forums and you'll end up knowing if the fix is for you or not and learn a bunch about your vehicle. (moon2all)

2KHarrier

Well, I'm still researching this anomaly,and I found this thread on the Toyotanation Forum discussing the oil problem in the Highlander;
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83...r-fixed-2.html

Some good info on the valve cover itself.

2KHarrier

Ordered the replacement valve cover and I'm starting to collect all the other parts.... Hopefully will be doing this job next week...

timmui

Good luck! Please share any thoughts or tips you have when you've completed it.

2KHarrier

I watched a video in the DIY thread about doing the rear valve cover gasket, and the person in the video took out the tray under the windshield wiper and also removed the wiper motor to facilitate removal of the right cover....
I'd like to avoid that if possible...

Hopefully the whole thing will go smoothly. my maintenance records show that Lexus had the car a few years ago and they accomplished cam seals and valve cover gaskets along with a rear main seal, so maybe it will come apart easily...

JAB

I removed that tray, the entire wiper assembly, and it was still a bear. I do not see how it could be done without removing all that stuff.

timmui

Was it the time lapse video with the toyota tech working on a white RX? (I can't find it right now to share the link) From what I saw just looking at the engine compartment, that wiper tray has to come out. Watching the video confirmed it for me.

If I recall correctly, in the video I am talking about, he was doing a cam replacement.

gazi001

He did valve cover gasket and cam both.

2KHarrier

Crap, yeah, that's the one... OK, so looks like I have a few extra steps to accomplish when I do this. I took next week off of work, and have a large list of items to finish.... I'm doing the valve cover, front and rear struts, end links, drivers door lock motor and since I got bumped into in a parking lot, I picked up a new rear bumper cover and had it painted, so I'll be tackling that as well.

A very busy week next week.....

I'll take pictures and post my progress...

timmui

Ok, then we're on the same page. As for the Snap-on wrench he showed, if you have $60 to throw at them, by all means, get it. You can't go wrong with them and I have often wished I owned a set. I went to amazon and found this combination wrench that has the same 14mm socket at about 1/5th the price:


I don't know what the quality of the tool is, which buying a Snap-on wrench would guarantee to be on the high side, but I suspect for the few times I'll reach for it, it'll get the job done. You might also want to look at HF to see what they have that could be gotten cheaply.

jimsRX300

I can verify the difference in rear valve covers between a 01 Highlander and a 03 RX 1MZ engines. I recently had the lovely experience of changing engines after my oil pump gummed up. There is a difference in the size, location, and number of vents on the top. The location of the PCV is the same.

2KHarrier

Thanks Tim; That would definitely make the job a little easier. Being an aircraft mechanic, I fortunately have amassed a good selection of tools. I have a 14mm ratcheting wrench, so hopefully that will remove the hidden nut on the back side of the plenum.

I'm just trying to figure out what else I should repair while I've got the engine opened up.